Call Matt @ Honda World Westmnster. He will take care of you.

 

Funny u mentioned that, i went to honda world in westminster (i'm viet btw) first to buy my accord. Since i was vietnamese, they bought out a viet sales rep. He was a jerk, then i talked to his manager who was also viet, he was a moron and a jerk i might add. They expected me to pay msrp and said that was a good deal. So i was like oh hell no. I went to norm reeves in huntington beach and it was like day and night. The service was so much better that i bought my car there. Plus i bought it for a way lower price.

 

You can get exhausts much cheaper than $1100. There is no need to buy titanium, besides having bragging rights that your exhaust weighs 10lb vs. 25. There is a group buy going on for both the T1R ($600) and the Spoon ($600) exhausts. They'll both give you 7-8whp while reducing weight by going with a single exit design.

There are not many gains to be had with the intake. I would say the AEM/Injen intakes give you the most gain, but at the risk of hydrolocking the motor. Maybe 5-6whp. So for under $1000 you can get a little gain there. Headers are pretty much a waste of money and time with this car. Honda has done a very good job.

Kris

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PilotKD ...Headers are pretty much a waste of money and time with this car.

 

simply nitrous is the bang for the bucks.. but if you dont have the right setup, you would endup with bang and alot of bucks..
pinyo

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Luder94

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PilotKD
Heck, I got 10-12whp out of a $400 header for my Miata, why are S2000 headers 2-4x more $$$ for 2-3x less power gain?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by vjarnot

 

I'll assume you are driving the car very hard, such as tracking it. If so, there are two required mods. Change to a track (DOT4) brake fluid and change to higher temp brake pads.

As far as bang for the buck goes, the next thing I would suggest is to buy one of Modifry's redline beepers. $65 and your upshifts suddenly get a lot more consistant.

Aside from that, my suggestion would be to spend as much money as possible driving the car. Buy track time, burn through tires, buy coaching, burn through brake pads and rotors, etc.

How the heck are you supposed to know if you are extending the limits of the car's performance until you can reliably find the limit's of the car's performance? Personally, I bought my car to drive it, not to run it on the dyno.