Depends what yr looking for...If u go with a BBK u have to remember the main thing yr gna get from it is looks. As has already been stated the S has awesome breaks from factory n for track use u can eliminate break fade by changing the pads.

If yr set on a BBK there are 2 levels. At the lower level I would look into the Stoptec. They are 'supposedly' made for the car, instead of just being modified and sold to fit the car and have been recommended by many users on this forum.

At the higher level u should be looking at the Endless or the J's. Essentially the choice between these two is up 2 u, but from what I understand the two kits are almost the same, with J's using the Endless BBK as the base for their kit.

Hope this helps n gd luck with yr choice!

 

Thanx guys...judging from the replies, it seems that the braking performance of the original caliper is enough with aftermarket pads etc. Actually that would be good cuz i would be able to use the stock rims with r compound rubber and need not buy another set of rims just to clear the BBK for track use.

So if i were to stay with the original caliper, what aftermarket pad options, slotted rotors, brake lines would everyone recommend for use on the circuit??

 

most track cars run stock rotors, lines, and calipers. slotted / drilled aftermarket rotors crack and some braided SS lines fail. Why change things that are known to be track reliable?

 

I understand the idea of the BBK being mainly for looks, but there is obvious performence increases as well. For one the weight savings(some kits are lighter then factory), and the BBK overall should stop better the stock.

 

They do not stop better than stock. There is no noticable improvement in braking distance due to BBK's. This topic has been covered ad nauseum in R&C.

The benefits you see from upgrading to a BBK are generally threefold:

- Reduced unsprung mass (assuming that the BBK you choose is lighter than stock which it may not be unless you shell out the big bucks for Endless, AP, Alcon, etc...)
- Increased resistance to fade in extreme use situations (long races or endurance events)
- Ease of pad changes (in some cases) because some of the racing calipers are made in such a way as to make pad changes quicker

What everyone is saying is that those benefits, while present, are extremely small when compared to the price associated with the BBK "upgrade". When you factor in the fact that once you've gone the BBK route you're now also locked in to buying more expensive rotors as well. On a track car rotors are a wear item. You end up replacing them often and that cost factors into making big brake kits even more expensive.

All of the above boils down to OEM rotors are the best choice when used with race pads and race fluid (with the unspoken caveat "for the price"). The point everyone is making is that if you're fast as hell (as a driver) and you've tuned every ounce of speed out of your car possible, then sure lightening your brakes will give you that last bit of weight savings and endurance. If you're not running long events and you're not at wits end trying to loose more weight and you don't have a very steep budget, stick with OEM you'll be better off.

Also someone mentioned slotted and drilled rotors cracking. ALL rotors crack. Rotors are a wear item when tracking / racing your car. Steve split 2 or 3 OEM rotors in one weekend at the Redline Time Attack at Summit Point this past weekend. With that said, slotted and drilled rotors crack more easily than solid OEM's.

-J

PS> A good compromise with all of this if you feel strongly about "upgrading" your brakes are the Spoon Calipers. You'll save a little weight, gain a little resistance to fade, and still be able to use OEM rotors (and not pay for a full BBK). Best of all worlds IMHO.

 

well said.

 

I should have specified that

 

Cool information, yeah it's true that cross-drilled and slotted rotors crack easier, but they help to dissipate heat. I personally think slotted is ok fer circuit but don't recommend the crossdrilled. Will rotor heat be an issue for the OEM rotors on the track, let's say i do about 10-15 laps each time on a circuit which runs 5.5km long and has a good mix of turns and long straight needing lotsa braking at the end, will the OEM rotors stay cool enough to prevent brake fade? Besides brake ducts, any other ways to cool an OEM rotor then?

 

so what are some recommendations for "better" pads on stocks?

 

The biggest problem to brake fad is the brake pad itself. OEM rotors and some aftermarket race pads and you'll be golden for non-endurance races