Best Mod Bang for the Buck
He'll be making more HP at 7,500 RPMs with the supercharger than at 9K with all the mods you suggested. He wouldn't need to rev to 9K if he was worried about the forged internals not holding up...
. That is the allure of this car to me....most HP per liter of ANY production car, forced induction, or not, as well as the stratospheric redline
. If you are wanting to lower the effective redline and have more torque and power at a lower level, get a 350Z. I would SO get a comptech if I had the $ for a good tune and sleeves for the engine, as well as an EMS system.
John
Thats the same question I asked when I bought my S and joined this forum. On of the members back then Alexs2k or the infamous Officerdown advised me to pay the car off first -probably being an asshole. So I took their advice and put my 5k towards the principle balance. Now the best MOD I have is a Comptech CAI and a paid off '02 S, with 24k miles on it.
Thanks for the advice OD and alex
Thanks for the advice OD and alex
Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jul 28 2005, 09:19 AM
most HP per liter of ANY production car, forced induction, or not
For me it would go:
1. Coilovers look at the KW variant 3's
2. Upgrade your lower front sway bar
3. Take a driving school
At this point youre left with about $1500 and you will actually know the car well enough to make an educated descision for what mods you want next. Doing things like SC or gears soon after you get the car waters down the experience of learning a car and watching it evolve imho.
1. Coilovers look at the KW variant 3's
2. Upgrade your lower front sway bar
3. Take a driving school
At this point youre left with about $1500 and you will actually know the car well enough to make an educated descision for what mods you want next. Doing things like SC or gears soon after you get the car waters down the experience of learning a car and watching it evolve imho.
Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jul 28 2005, 09:19 AM
I would SO get a comptech if I had the $ for a good tune and sleeves for the engine, as well as an EMS system.
You can't argue with n/a purists. It's like arguing over religion apparantly.
IMHO if you want power, go FI. If you want to blow loads of money and never hope to see much of it back, with an engine that still can't compare to FI go n/a.
If you buy a s/c, you can definitely sell it back on s2ki with little deprecation. It also requires no tuning (unless you want max performance). If you go n/a... More of the money is wasted on tuning, seperate installs (if you don't install yourself), and usually when you sell back the items you have huge deprecation (Most people don't even part out because there is so many 'little' items, aka HUGE LOSS).
I find it to be common sense on what you should choose.
IMHO if you want power, go FI. If you want to blow loads of money and never hope to see much of it back, with an engine that still can't compare to FI go n/a.
If you buy a s/c, you can definitely sell it back on s2ki with little deprecation. It also requires no tuning (unless you want max performance). If you go n/a... More of the money is wasted on tuning, seperate installs (if you don't install yourself), and usually when you sell back the items you have huge deprecation (Most people don't even part out because there is so many 'little' items, aka HUGE LOSS).
I find it to be common sense on what you should choose.
Sleeves for < 20 PSI seems like TOTAL OVERKILL as well.
I am not going to spend $5k on a SC, and have the risk of a $5k engine getting blown. I just dont have that kind of extra $ lying around. That is why I insist on the "overkill" of the sleeving if I were to get a SC, to basically make the risk of a blown engine null.
Just my personal opinion, and everyone is entitle to one. Everyone must run some sort of risk assessment when making a decision like this....i know the chance of blowing an engine is low when under 15lbs of boost, but it is still there.....
John




