How long should I expect my front brakes to last before replacing them?
I have a '08 bought new. I have 36K on them and I drive quite normally (for the most part).
I went in for service at local Honda dealer and they said they need replacing.
Are they trying to hustle me???
Thanks,
Soof

 

do they pulse? does the car stop comfortably? If you look at the face of the disc, does it appear relatively smooth in appearance without grooves? Can you feel the back side of the discs? Do they feel smooth without grooves? Look at the brake pads- does there look like there is more than 3 mm of material on them?

At 36K miles, they may need replacing if they're grooved, or significantly worn. Stamped on the OEM front brake discs is the limit of 23mm IIRC- grab your caliper measure and check. Anything less and yeah, I'd likely replace them.

I run a Hawk HP+ pad and autocross everything, so I don't get 36K miles of service with my pads or rotors.

darcy

 

Maybe the pads are worn.

Have another shop check, maybe?

 

Seems normal and can't hurt.

On my '06 the front brake pads were replaced and the rotors resurfaced at 38K miles. (My example of 1). According to the mandatory annual Virginia vehicle inspection report they're still good after another 30K miles. As annoying as the annual inspection seems for four cars it's at least reassuring as this car ages. The car failed once: needed windshield wipers. If they could have sold me brakes I'm sure they would have.

-- Chuck

 

Dealerships have a set amount each car occupying a bay needs to incur. So they'll find stuff you don't need to make up the difference.

Brakes are a common way to do that. Easy sell. Safety!

DO NOT bring this car to dealership for service. Fastest way to destroy your car. They don't know this car, and they think they know everything. Dangerous combo.

Brakes are ok, but never have them change oil or any other fluids. They won't torque down oil filter, which can lead to engine fire, likely to use wrong diff fluid and destroy it.

Go to local area inside this forum, and ask for a good independent shop that has S knowledge and experience. Don't be afraid if its a guy in his garage.

Its called a Stealership for a reason.

 

I bought a 2009, one owner, older guy who never tracked. 31K miles. I now have 77K miles. A few years back I bought new OEM rotors and pads for the eventual brake job. I measured a few times over time and they still were okay. I don't track my car either. I should do another measurement but I do feel a lip on the outer edge of the rotor. The pads are getting quite small but never have any sound like a chirp or grinding. I replace the brake fluid (Billman's gravity method) every 3 years. I have not looked at the rears as the fronts do the heavy lifting and they are quiet as a church mouse at this point. Maybe at the next fluid bleed I will go and replace everything on the front.

I have 2 local dealers I go to. I have other Hondas and Acura vehicles. They are great for the big 105K mile service job when those come up. The parts guys give me discounts on parts I order. I have taken my S in for alignments; they have good offers from time to time and the machines are pretty advanced. They even popped in some missing fasteners on the bottom of my front lip no charge. I do everything else. The service manager said two mechanics are formally trained in the S in case I want to come in for something. He also said he sees two kinds of S2000 owners: the one like me who do it all and preserve the car well, and the second are younger folks who "rice" the car out and track it. Not as well kept.

Of course they always ask if I want to sell, LOL!

 

Happen to know the minimum thickness specs for the rear rotors & pads too?

I only street drive my s2k (no track/auto-x); and only put on 4-5k miles per year.
Bought it almost 10 years ago at 95k miles. Currently has 130k miles now.

I've never done a pad/rotor job on this car yet; but, it'll be due soon.
Still on the same pads/rotors from previous owner and they still look good - all rotors look good with only minor grooving... front pads finally gettin there and look to be about 2.5-3mm now, and rear pads 4mm and still thick.

I'll probably just get brand-new Centric rotors (along with pads) from rockauto vs resurfacing. As resurfacing = gotta drop it off, go back home, wait, then pick it up again = hassle/time.

 

Wow, thanks everyone for your replies. Very helpful.
After reading your comments I've decided to skip the Honda dealership for future services and go to an excellent local shop where one of the mechanics is very knowledgeable about performance cars. Looking back at this recent experience I'm not surprised that the dealership gave me a list of "must have" parts replacements The brakes were just the tip of the iceberg. The new owner probably wants some quick cash.
So . . . thanks again.

 

FYI, factory AP2 pads are a cheap upgrade for AP1's.
Or really, any decent semi-metallic brake pad.

 

Brakes on this car are like any other Honda. Amy decent mechanic will have no issues and no special S knowledge is involved.

That is not the case with other seemingly routine services.

Like an oil change (use only the S specific Honda filter. Buy online. If you get from dealer, make sure you get tbe S specific one, not the one that is for every other Honda. Both will technically work, but non S specific one does not have extra ridges that prevent possibility of spinning loose at 9k rpm, losing all oil pressure, and likely burning car to the ground. Dealership will tell you either one is suitable. Don't listen.)

Torque filter down per specs written on filter. Filter looks like every other filter for every other car, but its not. Easy for any mechanic not to realize. Make sure to mention before anyone changes your oil.

Clutch is another one. Need to pay way more attention to where to grease and what grease to use than most other cars. Easy for mechanic not to realize.

Also need to use only Honda clutch disk and Honda bearings for this service.

Most things on this car are simple and a pleasure to work on. There are just a few special things to know and even an experienced mechanic might not realize.