[QUOTE=F1s2000,Jun 19 2006, 06:01 PM] They cracked because they are cheep oem rotors that are drilled. It depends on the material of the rotor as well.

Fact....Today

 

In regards to the BBK for >300hp thing, I see the point when you are talking about the track. But I don't follow when it comes to a situation where there is no racing. A N/A car going 100mph is going to stop faster with a BBK than with OEM. A 500hp car going 100mph is going to stop faster with a BBK than with OEM. You make it sound like the time it takes to reach that 100mph is a factor.

 

Actually, to set the record straight, they were not oem rotors.



Prior to the track day they were pretty cadmium plated rotors but I melted the cadmium off.

Before:

After:

The rotors were aftermarket made in Canada, cadmium plated, drilled and slotted.

My drilled oem rotors are still functioning fine.

 

Interesting article, in my case I have BBK, I was FI before, and I do lot of canyon runs, most of them downhill and the BBK help me lot with fadding, since I am following elise, exiges and caterhams. Other S suffer of fadding brakes on downhill, we do not reach high speed, 60-70 mph max, but there is not enough space-time to let the brakes cool down, here I see the advantages of bbk. For daily driving and highway driving BBK it is not worth.

One thing that fools people to BBK is that stopping distance with BBKform 80mph or 100 mph to 0 mph is a bit lower (0-5 fts) than stock. But we have to take into consideration that in a Race, Autocross event we NEVER brake the car until it stops completly. This mean that those tests are not very useful to compare brake systems.

Some time going BBK is worth becuase the speed and weight of the car are not enough to allow the brake to reach their optimal level of temperature resulting in a worser stoping distance.

Learning to brake and knowing how keep your brakes cold for the maximum time during the event is very important.

I do not if I have the expressed very well but I think you understand my point.


Keep writing such nice articles

 

the problem is the tires; not all the cars in that test has the same tires some that street ites other almost slicks other had worn tires

Tires is the component most important, even more than the type of brake, since it is your only contact with the floor.

if the test were performence with the same set of tires in all cars we can some useful imformation but as I stated before, you never stop the car completly in a race or autocross event

 

how do you figure it is gonna stop faster with a BBK? I think you misunderstand the point of a BBK...

Not only that, but the point made as well. What he is saying is that given a distance from A to B, I more powerful car can reach higher speeds in the same distance, therefore needing to slow down from a higher speed...

 

Is there a method of rotor / brake cooling when coming off the track? I suppose it's not good to put your E brake on right after a 30 minute run...

 

NEVER put your e-brake on right after tracking (or any other situations where your brakes/rotors get really hot) You're just asking for warped rotors if you do. After a long hard run, you want to let your engine idle for a moment or two to let the fluids circulate and cool more evenly and leave your emergency brake off. (Use a wood block to keep the car from rolling.) Give your brakes at least 20-30 minutes to cool before you even think of applying the e-brake.

As for the comments above about the slight advantages of a BBK for hard street use, I'd have to agree. I just think it's an awful lot of $$ to spend for something you really don't need. Again, if you've got Roger Penske's parts budget... (and if you do, I could use a sponsor... )

 

You are completely wrong. For the most part BBK's increase stopping distances. But they do look good in people's signatures.

 

Bump.

Someone please tell me what rotors those are.