You are quite right. This thing comes up periodically and people start screaming "HONDA DEFECT! HONDA DEFECT!"
I'm done with this one.
The number you have reached is no longer in service. Please look in mirror and talk to yourself if you have anything further to add. This is especially advised if you have trouble dealing with another point of view. This is a recording.

 

I lose more power due to the bogging than I do due to the "hot" air being sucked in with the airbox cover off. As soon as you get moving with ANY speed whatsoever, the under-hood temps cool off right away. As long as my car doesn't bog off the line (which it doesn't, with the airbox cover off), then I will get cooler intake temperatures more quickly because my car will actually move.

There may be other cars that have this problem, but I have yet to experience it in any of the other cars I've driven (of which I only provided a partial list in this thread).

What part of the country do you live in, xviper?

 

 

rickycrx - I've removed the airbox cover, and throttle response has changed a bit for the better, thanks.

But unfortunately, the issue has not been completely rectified, I'm friggen scared to make a left turn now when SUV's are inbound from oncoming traffic. This issue is completely baffling because I never had to deal with this until after the 1st month and a half of ownership.

After a bit of more experimentation, I've come up with interesting results. When the car does bog during acceleration, 3000 rpms is the magic number to surmount in order for the bogging to stop. During slow acceleration from 2000 to 3000 rpms, there is a slight throttle lag - sort of like a disconnected feeling. But instantaneously after 3000 rpms, the car forgets that it's misbehaving and starts accelerating smoothly again.

Something even more strange, I've experienced the issue at about 3000 rpms while in 1st gear. I started a slow and smooth decceleration from about 3500 rpms until about 3000 (essentially coasting) when I start to feel the bog/precursor to buck.

Still no luck after performing an ECM reset/ ECM idle learn procedure.

Anyway, from a stop, throttling till about 3500 rpms before slowly engaging clutch while keeping revs above 3000 rpms until clutch completely engaged seems to work for now.

Thanks for everyone's help!

If anyone's near Burbank, CA and wouldn't mind letting me drive there car / vice versa, I could definitely use a second specimen for testing. For compensation, I'll bring some beer or some flowers depending on gender.

 

Here's a similar thread going on with my nickle's worth.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...&f=22&t=219845

For me, I've tried the remove the stock airbox lid and it doesn't work... it made things far worse than before. I'm in Hawaii and ambient temps average 95-100F outside and the surface of the asphalt could range from a cool 115F to as much as 140F, as measured using my Snap-On pyrometer.

I can't be certain about whether the exact cause of the bucking is all the same, as my theory on the subject involves multiple factors, however some of those factors contribute to the issue more than the others.

 

I still say that's really odd that it has affected you guys' cars opposite of what I have experienced. About 3 weeks ago, I was instructing at a novice autocross school where a guy came in with an '00 or '01 S2k. Since we gave the students about 18 runs that day, we were running through the course almost back-to-back. Heat soak was getting pretty bad on his car when he would launch off the line and it would bog quite badly when he would launch (and he actually slipped it, not just 'dropped' it). I had him remove his airbox cover, and the problem went away for the rest of his runs. So like I say -- I am very surprised that it hasn't worked for you guys.

Also, just like vng, I was also afraid of making left hand turns with traffic coming, not knowing if the car was going to behave like a Ford Taurus rental car or if it would actually get out of its own way when I gave it some throttle. I no longer have that problem/worry any more.

VNG -- PM me with your phone number... This Thursday I am putting my S2000 on a trailer and towing it to Vancouver, Canada. After my wedding, we'll be driving down the Pacific Coast Hwy on the way back to Texas. Maybe we can meet up for lunch/dinner one day on our trip back... We will be passing through your area probably around the 1st of August...Maybe the 2nd. I can give you a call when I hit the Bay Area and let you know what my timeline is looking like and when we can meet up. I'll be driving airbox-topless for the entire duration of my trip from Vancouver back to Texas.

 

I'm having the hesitation problem again myself after replacing my MAP.. there seems to be no pattern to it whatsoever. It happens sometiems at higher rpms, sometimes at lower rpms... sometimes in traffic...sometimes on the interstate.... when the engine is hot...when it is cold...

 

I do not believe that yours is the typical "bucking" scenario. I think with your car, there is much more going on than meets the eye and extreme diagnosis will be required. Have you seen the thread by Ultimate Lurker on the experiments he did with several different MAP sensors? Basically, the bottom line is that Honda makes crappy MAP sensors for this car and just replacing one does not mean your problems are resolved. I hope it is not the case, but there have been a few reports of such behavior being finally resolved by putting in a new ECU.
Look here:
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=109736

 

[QUOTE=rickycrx,Jul 12 2004, 05:47 AM]VNG -- PM me with your phone number... This Thursday I am putting my S2000 on a trailer and towing it to Vancouver, Canada.

 

I agree with xviper. In some cases, I've found a faulty TPS and faulty injectors but the warning signs were different often resulting in the same bucking action.

It's too bad that we can't scavenge a MAP sensor off another Honda and try it on our cars. Is AHM aware of this issue or do they write it off as an isolated incident?