Build Advice
#1
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Build Advice
Ok, my F20c is going for a rebuild (currently has 100K kilometers) and the car is tracked at lapping days and will eventually be entered to regional racing. My engine build is as follows:
J's Pistons & OE Rings
J's Header
J's Intake
J's 65mm Throttle Body
J's Baffled Oil Pan
4.57 Gears & comptech housing
Comptech flywheel
Spoon Thermostat
Spoon Headgasket OE thickness
Knife Edge & micropolished crank
balance & blueprint
all new bearings
AEM EMS
ARP bolts
This is what is currently being done on the engine. I also have skunk2 pro+2 cams, vales, Ti retainers, springs, which I will be putting in the motor in the summertime.
The car is still going to be a daily driver (some what of one for the summer time).
My question is should I do a port & polish on the head, a standard job or a full out race port, or none at all. Same goes for the IM (and honing it). What would the potential gains be just from this? Also what do you guys think I will be making power wise after this build?
The last question I have is with the AEM EMS. It works great to tune it for max performance, but for daily driving (especially here in Canada), where temperatures can drop 10 degrees Celcius on a daily basis make it extremly finiky. Ive heard rumors that their learning program isnt the greatest. Would it be wiser to use a J's ecu "tuned" to what my specs are. Would this give me better drivability? I am looking for more reliability and longivity rather than max hp numbers.
J's Pistons & OE Rings
J's Header
J's Intake
J's 65mm Throttle Body
J's Baffled Oil Pan
4.57 Gears & comptech housing
Comptech flywheel
Spoon Thermostat
Spoon Headgasket OE thickness
Knife Edge & micropolished crank
balance & blueprint
all new bearings
AEM EMS
ARP bolts
This is what is currently being done on the engine. I also have skunk2 pro+2 cams, vales, Ti retainers, springs, which I will be putting in the motor in the summertime.
The car is still going to be a daily driver (some what of one for the summer time).
My question is should I do a port & polish on the head, a standard job or a full out race port, or none at all. Same goes for the IM (and honing it). What would the potential gains be just from this? Also what do you guys think I will be making power wise after this build?
The last question I have is with the AEM EMS. It works great to tune it for max performance, but for daily driving (especially here in Canada), where temperatures can drop 10 degrees Celcius on a daily basis make it extremly finiky. Ive heard rumors that their learning program isnt the greatest. Would it be wiser to use a J's ecu "tuned" to what my specs are. Would this give me better drivability? I am looking for more reliability and longivity rather than max hp numbers.
#2
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Buy a stock block, knife edge the crank if you want. Lighter weight fly, thinner HG or buy pistons that will work on the stock block and have 12:1 CR. Make sure you always get 93 octane at least. Your summer time temps in canada should be cool enough.
Do a full race P&P. Don't waste your money on the 65mm TB or extrude honing the IM. Replace the rod bolts with ARP's. You can stick with stock head bolts.
Do a full race P&P. Don't waste your money on the 65mm TB or extrude honing the IM. Replace the rod bolts with ARP's. You can stick with stock head bolts.
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why would i buy a stock block when I have a block? the flywheel is already light and any lighter would reduce torque. The CR with the J's pistons and spoon headgasket is 11.7:1. So far I have not heard of a head gasket which is thinner than stock and can be used safely with the j's pistons. IF i want to lower the CR even further (in the future) i can just mill the head (unless someone tells me otherwise). ARP bolts was already a part of the equation as well. The TB I have so its gonna go on.
How much of a gain will I get with the full race p&p?
How much of a gain will I get with the full race p&p?
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