A Challenge to all you ELECTRONICS GURUS !!
Shaner,
Thanks for the offer. Sudbury isn't far from me and I should be available that weekend -- Sunday is going to be best for me. Let me think about what supplies/connectors we need to do this right (I'm sure you don't want to cut up any factory wiring harnesses for this experiment). Initially, we can use the MAP sensor from my S2K as the atmospheric reference input, so there's no need to go out and purchase another. Expect more posts....
-koejing
Thanks for the offer. Sudbury isn't far from me and I should be available that weekend -- Sunday is going to be best for me. Let me think about what supplies/connectors we need to do this right (I'm sure you don't want to cut up any factory wiring harnesses for this experiment). Initially, we can use the MAP sensor from my S2K as the atmospheric reference input, so there's no need to go out and purchase another. Expect more posts....
-koejing
Well, i just called majestic honda and ordered a MAP sensor. $42.59
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/cgi-bi...0&SystemNumber=
Now i'm going to go hunting around town for the parts needed to put this BadBoy together. Hopefully i wont have to order from digikey and wait for delivery.
Koejing, the LM358 shows an input voltage range of 0 to (V+ -2.0) implying a max input voltage of 3v with a 5v supply. If this is correct then it may be cutting it close to the 2.9v at sealevel value for the MAP sensor and may not accomadate a trip to death valley where the pressure and voltage may rise above 3.0v Again if this is correct we may need a 12v supply to the LM358
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/cgi-bi...0&SystemNumber=
Now i'm going to go hunting around town for the parts needed to put this BadBoy together. Hopefully i wont have to order from digikey and wait for delivery.
Koejing, the LM358 shows an input voltage range of 0 to (V+ -2.0) implying a max input voltage of 3v with a 5v supply. If this is correct then it may be cutting it close to the 2.9v at sealevel value for the MAP sensor and may not accomadate a trip to death valley where the pressure and voltage may rise above 3.0v Again if this is correct we may need a 12v supply to the LM358
davepk,
Yeah, the LM358 with a +5v supply will be cutting it too close for comfort. National rates the output of their part at: V+ - 1.5v which would leave us with a max possible output of +3.5v (BEST CASE). Moving to a +12v supply will definitely solve this problem -- now you just have to find an easy place to pick up +12v. Also the value of R1 should be 3.0K ohms -- I will update the schem to reflect these changes tonight.
-koejing
Yeah, the LM358 with a +5v supply will be cutting it too close for comfort. National rates the output of their part at: V+ - 1.5v which would leave us with a max possible output of +3.5v (BEST CASE). Moving to a +12v supply will definitely solve this problem -- now you just have to find an easy place to pick up +12v. Also the value of R1 should be 3.0K ohms -- I will update the schem to reflect these changes tonight.
-koejing
re: shaner's comment
One of you guys build it... and I will buy it!
The outpouring of creativeness and enthusiasm to solve this problem is great and I wholeheartedly support you guys in what you are doing.
But shouldn't the final solution to this problem be provided to us by Comptech? If you guys prototype a fix and show that it works all the time, under all conditions I would think that Comptech would want to adopt your fix (unless they come up with something in the meantime that works just as well). They should then put it into a nice package so it looks OK and is easy to install and send it to us.
We should not have to pay to fix something that is comptech's responsibility
One of you guys build it... and I will buy it!
The outpouring of creativeness and enthusiasm to solve this problem is great and I wholeheartedly support you guys in what you are doing.
But shouldn't the final solution to this problem be provided to us by Comptech? If you guys prototype a fix and show that it works all the time, under all conditions I would think that Comptech would want to adopt your fix (unless they come up with something in the meantime that works just as well). They should then put it into a nice package so it looks OK and is easy to install and send it to us.
We should not have to pay to fix something that is comptech's responsibility
You guys are going to love this!
I called www.splitsec.com (thanks STAN) and talked with Mark about using a VC1 with the S2000.
He basically told me he didn't know if it would work and if I bought it and it didn't work, I'd be "shit out of luck"!
WTF, kinda customer service is that?
I even tried to reason with him that if nothing else he would know if the S2000 application was good or not and all he'd have to offer me was that I could return it if things didn't work as advertised. No dice dude, "don't have anything laying around like a prototype I could send you" WHAT?
I called www.splitsec.com (thanks STAN) and talked with Mark about using a VC1 with the S2000.
He basically told me he didn't know if it would work and if I bought it and it didn't work, I'd be "shit out of luck"!
WTF, kinda customer service is that?
I even tried to reason with him that if nothing else he would know if the S2000 application was good or not and all he'd have to offer me was that I could return it if things didn't work as advertised. No dice dude, "don't have anything laying around like a prototype I could send you" WHAT?
hecash,
Zeners? We don't need no stikin' zeners! The top component, labeled LM393 is a Comparator. The middle component labeled 74HCT4052 is an Analog Multiplexor. The bottom component labeled LM358 is an Op-Amp (in voltage follower configuration). The data sheets for these components can be found on the 'net (Fairchild, National, etc.).
-koejing
Zeners? We don't need no stikin' zeners! The top component, labeled LM393 is a Comparator. The middle component labeled 74HCT4052 is an Analog Multiplexor. The bottom component labeled LM358 is an Op-Amp (in voltage follower configuration). The data sheets for these components can be found on the 'net (Fairchild, National, etc.).
-koejing
>>WTF, kinda customer service is that? <<
IMO you might be angry at the wrong company.
Having said that, Split Second is not known for their customer service - they basically prefer all sales and minutiae to be handled by their dealers. They don't like to waste time on wild goose chases. Some research and development and testing needs to be done by somebody or some company as regards this SC driveability problem. Maybe Comptech has already considered this simple electronic concept and found it will work but is too pricey, or it won't work for some other reason.
The VC-1 simply passes through the same voltage sent to it and then no higher than you set it for no matter what happens upstream. IF that is enough to help the car, great. That seems to be essentailly what Comptech is trying to do mechanically with the check valve. I don't see how SS can guarantee S2000 results. All automotive electronics are basically nonreturnable for full price unless defective or it breaks during any warranty period. You can't install a fancy car stereo, drive around with it for a week or two and then take it back full cash back cuz now you don't like the sound. Driveability is the toughest thing to achieve in car tuning. Get to work Comptech, you can do it!!!
Stan
[Edited by E30M3 on 03-28-2001 at 03:20 PM]
IMO you might be angry at the wrong company.
Having said that, Split Second is not known for their customer service - they basically prefer all sales and minutiae to be handled by their dealers. They don't like to waste time on wild goose chases. Some research and development and testing needs to be done by somebody or some company as regards this SC driveability problem. Maybe Comptech has already considered this simple electronic concept and found it will work but is too pricey, or it won't work for some other reason.
The VC-1 simply passes through the same voltage sent to it and then no higher than you set it for no matter what happens upstream. IF that is enough to help the car, great. That seems to be essentailly what Comptech is trying to do mechanically with the check valve. I don't see how SS can guarantee S2000 results. All automotive electronics are basically nonreturnable for full price unless defective or it breaks during any warranty period. You can't install a fancy car stereo, drive around with it for a week or two and then take it back full cash back cuz now you don't like the sound. Driveability is the toughest thing to achieve in car tuning. Get to work Comptech, you can do it!!!
Stan
[Edited by E30M3 on 03-28-2001 at 03:20 PM]
koejing, Got the parts i need to put this thing together so i can mount it near the ecu. I'm going to comptech thursday with silver surfer and droping my car off at modacar for the SC install so I wont be able to try it out until sometime Sat or Sun. I should have it completed, MAP sensor and all, by Friday... stay tuned...






