[QUOTE]Originally posted by 00SType
[B]

Thanks Tanqueray.

 

i've been using ramps to do the oil change, and there does not seem to be much oil left anyways if you just let it drain for a good few minutes.

i like the idea of levelling off the car, but then I'd have to see if my jack will fit under the rear to get to the diff like Tanq has suggested. Not sure if my jack will reach . we shall see the next oil change I guess.

 

Good to hear that the diff is accessible from the rear when the front is in the air. I had never checked the rear clearance & assumed the rear dropped too low to reach the diff. Crawling from the front was not something I was looking forward to.

As for getting more oil out, I do drop the front after removing the plug and filter and a wee bit more does come out. Not sure if there is much benefit in doing this, but the added time/effort is still much less than taking it to a dealer for an oil change...

 

My oil changing/wheel cleaning technique...

1. Engage parking brake
2. Loosen Lug nuts.
3. Raise passenger front with the scissor jack several inches to make room for floor jack.
4. Raise entire front with floor jack.
5. Put jack stands under the front/side jacking points and lower the car onto them.
6. Raise rear of car with floor jack (plenty of room to do this).
7. Put jack stands under the rear/side jacking points and lower the car onto them.
8. Pull the wheels.
9. Put oil pan under car.
10. Remove drain bolt.
11. Remove filter.
12. Clean wheels/wheel wells.
12a. Bleed brakes if needed.
13. Moisten new filter rubber with oil and replace filter.
14. Replace drain plug with new washer (I use a torque wrench to get to proper torque)
15. Refill oil to top of "X's" and replace the oil cap.
16. Start car and let run for a couple of minutes.
17. Verify oil level.
18. Replace wheels
19. Lower rear of car.
20. Raise front of car off stands and remove them.
21. Replace scissor jack under passenger/front of car.
22. Lower car on to scissor jack.
23. Remove floor jack.
24. Remove scissor jack.
25. Torque wheels to proper settings with torque wrench.

How's that for step, by step instructions? I'm sure I forgot something, but I just woke up!

 

Good idea! While the oil is draining, your cleaning her up!

 

Meat,

Thanks for the step by step! I think I'll do this from now on, because I haven't been motivated in the past to take the wheels off to clean them. This can now fall under the double duty catagory. I like it!

 

If you need to bleed the brakes (before or after a track day) this is also a great time to do this as well - insert step #12a.

 

meat, the only thing I would add is the re-torque settings per Helms manual:

drain plug = 29 ft lbs

oil filter = 16 ft lbs or 7/8th revolution after contact

wheel lug nuts = 80 ft lbs

 

Thats actually a good idea, The cylinder head holds over a quart of oil in the cam valley when the engine is not running. That could help clear that crap out of there.

 

I'd actually run the engine to get it up to the proper operating temperature before draining the oil. If there is any "sludge" it'll drain easier if it is warm. I bought a set of rubber gloves (the thick kind, normally used for handling chemicals and such) to pull the drain plug. This prevents the hot oil from getting on my hand.

Dave