S2000 Talk Discussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it.

Changing the oil on Jack stands

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Old Dec 24, 2001 | 11:39 AM
  #31  
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From: Mish-she-gan
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Additional ideas:

While you have the tires off, inspect them closely. Inspect each tire for wear. Locate the wear bars. There are small arrows on the sides of the tires to pin point the wear bars on each tire. What your hoping to find is even wear across the tire and around the tire.

Do your 'final' tightening of the lug nuts to the 80# torque wrench specs after the car is settleed back down on the ground.

And I agree, the oil should generally be warm before draining to get the best flow. A drive around the block is sufficient. The drain nuts have an inside lip that allows you to do the final removal with your fingers. It allows you to hold on the plug and move your hand out of the way so you don't have to worry about getting it on you (no glove really needed), just allow for the pressure when placing your container under it. If you do drain it cold I would let drain for 1/2 hour. Finally, I always put at least 1/2 quart in the new filter before replacing.
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Old Dec 24, 2001 | 12:00 PM
  #32  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by DaveZ
[B]

I'd actually run the engine to get it up to the proper operating temperature before draining the oil.
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Old Dec 24, 2001 | 06:56 PM
  #33  
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meat .............. only one suggestion, add Step 9a Get a beer ! Wouldn't want you to dehydrate.
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Old Dec 25, 2001 | 08:54 AM
  #34  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by DaveZ
[B]

I'd actually run the engine to get it up to the proper operating temperature before draining the oil.
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Old Dec 25, 2001 | 08:56 AM
  #35  
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What the S2000 and many cars need is a jacking point that allows the whole side of the car to be lifted. THe NSX has that and makes it very convenient to do wheel/tire changes... On the RSX, the front one is positioned such that lifting there pretty much lifts up the whole side of the car. But on the S2000, the front or rear has to be up quite a bit before the other end goes up.
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 06:00 AM
  #36  
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I just use this to lift up the front end.



Then set it down on jackstands at the front lift points. While the oil is draining I lift up the rear end for a few min to level out the car.

DONE.
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 06:18 AM
  #37  
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 09:52 AM
  #38  
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I second Destiny's call on the Fumoto Oil Valve. If his link is not enough for you, then check out the link in my sig about the Fumoto.
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 12:16 PM
  #39  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by meat
My oil changing/wheel cleaning technique...

1. Engage parking brake
2. Loosen Lug nuts.
3. Raise passenger front with the scissor jack several inches to make room for floor jack.
4. Raise entire front with floor jack.
5. Put jack stands under the front/side jacking points and lower the car onto them.
6. Raise rear of car with floor jack (plenty of room to do this).
7. Put jack stands under the rear/side jacking points and lower the car onto them.
8. Pull the wheels.
9. Put oil pan under car.
10. Remove drain bolt.
11. Remove filter.
12. Clean wheels/wheel wells.
12a. Bleed brakes if needed.
13. Moisten new filter rubber with oil and replace filter.
14. Replace drain plug with new washer (I use a torque wrench to get to proper torque)
15. Refill oil to top of "X's" and replace the oil cap.
16. Start car and let run for a couple of minutes.
17. Verify oil level.
18. Replace wheels
19. Lower rear of car.
20. Raise front of car off stands and remove them.
21. Replace scissor jack under passenger/front of car.
22. Lower car on to scissor jack.
23. Remove floor jack.
24. Remove scissor jack.
25.
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 12:31 PM
  #40  
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Yeah, this is the way to go! You'll never need jack your car up ever again.

Changing my oil takes 10 minutes now.
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