Unfortunately I don't know where the plug is. The work was done by a friend of mine who is an Acura tech. I would just systematically go over the electrical connections under the hood. If not I've got to believe the Honda Dealer would.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by reviano
[B]Dropped my car off this morning at around 8:30.

 

I had a CHECK ENGINE light come on for the 2nd time(!!!) at 450 miles so I brought it in to the dealer this morning. It turned out to be the Knock Sensor. (Code P0325) It had not been factory installed tight enough. It was loose enough to remove with your fingers! They tightened it up and I was on my way....

Unfortunately they took it for a "road test" of 2 miles just to make sure it wasn't going to just come back on after I left....

After I got the car back, I was driving (quickly) back to work, when I noticed the perforated leather on the steering wheel had a slight scratch on the right hand side!!!!! AAAAAHHHH!!!

I called the dealer immediately when I got to work and he said they would repair it next week....... How frustrating!

-Riz

 

The air pump is located in the passenger wheel well. Easiest way to find it is to go to the air filter and work your way up the inductions system. Before you get to the throttle body you will come to a "corrogated" (flex) section just before a "waffle" pattern around the inlet. You will find a grey pipe coming off the inlet and heading into the passenger wheel well area. Follow this pipe and it will take you to the air pump. Depending on temperature..a mixing solenoid valve will open and allow air to enter the pipe you are following to the air pump. The pump will take cold air from the inlet and force it into the exhaust chambers. This extra O2 will combust burning unburned fuel exiting the exhaust when the engine is cold. This in turn will rapidly heat up the catalytic converter and provide better emissions performance.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Utah S2K
[B]The air pump is located in the passenger wheel well. Easiest way to find it is to go to the air filter and work your way up the inductions system. Before you get to the throttle body you will come to a "corrogated" (flex) section just before a "waffle" pattern around the inlet. You will find a grey pipe coming off the inlet and heading into the passenger wheel well area. Follow this pipe and it will take you to the air pump. Depending on temperature..a mixing solenoid valve will open and allow air to enter the pipe you are following to the air pump. The pump will take cold air from the inlet and force it into the exhaust chambers. This extra O2 will combust burning unburned fuel exiting the exhaust when the engine is cold. This in turn will rapidly heat up the catalytic converter and provide better emissions performance.

 

hello. do you have a pic of the air pump? jst got me s2k and the cel is on. i check the code and it says 60. something to do with the air pump, i want to fix it myself but i dont know what it looks like. thanks.

 

</div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE ( @ Mar 27 2001, 11:12 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> The air pump is located in the passenger wheel well. Easiest way to find it is to go to the air filter and work your way up the inductions system. Before you get to the throttle body you will come to a "corrogated" (flex) section just before a "waffle" pattern around the inlet. You will find a grey pipe coming off the inlet and heading into the passenger wheel well area. Follow this pipe and it will take you to the air pump. Depending on temperature..a mixing solenoid valve will open and allow air to enter the pipe you are following to the air pump. The pump will take cold air from the inlet and force it into the exhaust chambers. This extra O2 will combust burning unburned fuel exiting the exhaust when the engine is cold. This in turn will rapidly heat up the catalytic converter and provide better emissions performance. [/QUOTE]
Wouldn't that be in the driver's side wheel well? (at least in the United States)

 

Dood u have a 01 with 1500 miles?!

 

</div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE ( @ Mar 23 2001, 08:46 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> the check engine light has to do with the emissions systems, if you feel no real difference in performance there's no critcal hurry (but have it checked)to get it to the dealer. You can still drive your car etc, just don't do 1000 miles. was your battery run down?
mark [/QUOTE]
the check engine light has to do with a HELL of a lot more than just the emissions systems. it can involve a LOT of different things. please do not give advice, if you are going to give improper advice.

 

</div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE ( @ Mar 27 2001, 04:18 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> you might ask and have them check the fuel pump (eg. air pump) or a possible cracked gas filler opening...I used to do it, putting my hand on top of the pump while filling, occasionally leaning on it, will crack the gas filler tube leading to the gas tank...good luck! hopefully your Honda servicemen are better than my Ford servicemen! They had to fly an engineer from Salt Lake to work on my car to get it working!
I would also like to ask if you would be able to get the code that is generated from the test machine...usually there's a code generated. I don't think it's a bad O2 sensor this soon in the game...especially if the light came on and stayed on right at engine turn on. Anyways, Best of luck to you! [/QUOTE]
what does the fuel pump have to do with a DTC involving the air pump? same goes for the "cracked gas filler tube"? please see above, thank you.