I replaced all of the bolts on my driveshaft. They were already starting to round out. There are two different lengths so make sure to get 6 of each if you replace them.

The glue stuff was probably Loctite. Be careful using it because these bolts are already hard enough to get out.

 

DieselPilot: there is no fabricating. all you have to do is remove the clutch line from the slave cylinder (make sure you leave the clutch resevoir cap on or all the fluid will drain out very quickly) and remove the fastener on the other side. Then you can push out a little plastic piece that has the delay valve in it. somewhere on this forum is a much better write up, with pictures, of how to do it. just do a search.

if you have ramps it should take you no more than an hour. for me bleeding the line took longer than the rest of it (other than the beer breaks). overall very easy, but for me not much change.

your mileage may vary

 

just to clarify for anyone that might come by this post later...

on the 00-03, they are two different size bolts, each with a 6mm inset hex head

on the 04-05, they are all 12 the same, each with a 8mm inset hex head

also the shaft diameter increased from 8mm to 10mm (if memory serves) between AP1 and AP2.

 

back from the dead,

I'm also in need on some advice too, need to replace my clutch very soon, and i am down to just about 2 options,

First of all i have an 04 AP2 with 45K miles. besides a K&N filter and a straight pipe is pretty much stock and i'm 95% sure it will stay this way for a long time
No Track racing at all, Daily driven, just VTEC very often.....

so new clutch needed,

Option 1 OEM Clutch Disk, PP & AP1 FW $534.35 w/o bearings

Option 2 SPEC Clutch Stage 1 Disk & PP & AP1 FW (this setup would cost aprox. an extra $222.10) $756.45 w/o bearings

any input in helping me with this decision will be greatly appreciated

 

all I can say is that my sound recommendation is to stay away from any SPEC product. Their honestly about the clutch buzz on stage 2 products has been less than sincere ("we don't believe it happens!"). even the boosted guys are having great luck with an OEM honda clutch disc and a ACT heavy duty pressure plate. I think in the most extreme circumstances for you, that's the most you'd need.

 

Anyone with opinions on the competition clutch stage 4? Someone that have tested somethign else for reference aswell.

 

Lots of posts here about clutches, and I frankly still don't know what the major differences are on their clutch plates (i.e. the major pros and cons of each).

My mechanic highly recommends carbon plates, but he's used to working with high-powered cars like 400hp+ Evos and M3s ... at the end I went with HTG's combo. My car's still in the shop, and am looking forward to test what the light weight flywheel + ACT PP + OEM disc is all about on a relatively stock CR-wannabe S2K ...

Anyhow, it seems like there isn't really any real consensus when it comes to the clutch, as each and everyone here has a different setup (some are NA , and some have FI). Also boils down to personal preference as well as usage (i.e. 90% track? or 90% city?).

 

can the stock clutch handle a TC, SC set-up?

 

[QUOTE=Ks320,Mar 5 2009, 09:46 AM]Lots of posts here about clutches, and I frankly still don't know what the major differences are on their clutch plates (i.e. the major pros and cons of each).

My mechanic highly recommends carbon plates, but he's used to working with high-powered cars like 400hp+ Evos and M3s ... at the end I went with HTG's combo.

 

Sorry my mechanic actually caught a cold ... and he's closed in he mean time in the one-man-shop. So I won't be geting the car back earliest by tomorrow, but most likely next week. My mechanic is a bit slow, but he gets things done properly.

I got the ACT flywheel ... I "think" I have an AP1 flywheel, but I'm not 100% sure. Because I have AP1 gear ratios, but CDV and AP2 synchros and other AP2 goodies on my JDM 2004 AP1. I will weigh my flywheel when my mechanic takes the FW out, and post my experience of the ACT flywheel against whatever FW I had before.

I feel that I have an AP1 flwyeheel on my current car (given that it feels that the revs drop quicker than my AP2 from before), but I'm not entire sure ... will keep you guys posted on how things go for sure