Do you think enough air will travel upwards in that type of setup and into the bottom of the box to actually make a differance?

 

Well theoretically the K&N FIPK does make a seal with the rubber on top of the box that supposedly makes a tight seal with the hood. In my experiances, that stuff falls off though, I doubt its making any kind of seal in most applications.

 

At speeds it will work . Similiar to how brake coolers work.

 

the rubber for the kn fipk is supposed to make a seal? i didnt know that? i thought anything touching the hood would rub up against it and have signs of ware... just like how one of my kn hoses rubbed up against the underside of the hood

 

Thats why they put the rubber on it, but I am not convinced it seals at all. Mine I know does not seal cuz it fell off during installation

The ARC plate does not have a scoop but the vents for the air are in on the same side as the filter. Granted the benifit will not be as great as with a scoop but it still helps.

 

If the FIPK seals (or sort-of seals) to the top of the hood, I can't see any benefit from either a "scooped" or "unscooped" rad plate. It just wouldn't increase airflow to the filter enough to bother with.

It has been my impression that thge FIPK is designed to draw its air from the hole in the pax side internal fender well. There is cool air available there, and mu mod based on the AUT draws air from this sourse also, in addition to the "over the radiator scoop."

But I just can't visulize how any kind of rad plate would help the FIPK do its job better.

 

Dolebludger, it seals on 3 sides, the back, left, and right. The front is still open. I think the design is to force the air from that area and not from the sides where heat can leak in from the engine.

What does everyone think of neveronline's tubing into the bottom of the FIPK container idea?

 

So if the plastic plate is removed, wouldn't the air that was supposed to go to the radiator be diverted away? If there's absolutely no problem, the why was there even a plastic piece there?

So I think the noobs need a pros & cons chart for removing the plastic plate. Could some list it?

 

If the FIPK is open on its front edge, then a rad plate like the AUT that has a scoop would be of benefit. The AUT would supply cool air to the filter, but not under pressure, of course. I'd have to see a pic of the ARC rad plate to form an opinion on whether it would help or not.
With the FIPK, I think it would be beneficial to run a 3" industrial flex hose into the pax fender well (it'll fit) and down to the cut-out of the pax side fake vent. It would be a PIA job, as you'd have to remove your pax fender. Then, you'd have to fabricate a funnel-like piece to mount inside the cut-out onto which the 3" hose could secruely fasten.

If the CF rad plate has a CAI scoop, a reason for removing the stock plastic piece would be that the CAI wouldn't work with that piece in place. If the CF rad plate has no CAI scoop, the purpose of removing the stock piece would be to allow freer access to air by the radiator. That is the ultimate purpose of those "scoopless" rad plates.

 

my point was just that the little bit of air the vents let into the engine bay are better than nothing at all. I was not trying to say it was as good as the BYS/AUT scoop style rad plates.

3 inch would be a little big for my application (though they would be a better benifit) AP2 fake vents are smaller than the AP1's thats why I was going to use 2-2 1/2 inch. I want it to look as clean and understated as possible while still being functional.