S2000 Talk Discussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it.

Cooling plate

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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 04:48 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by oOweEe,Dec 5 2007, 01:47 AM
it seems like cutting a right sized hole in the stock rad plate is gettin best of both worlds. the aut plate will "work" and your radiator will get sufficient airflow.

can anyone point out a con to this method?
Actually, you could just remove the AC access plate on top of the OEM diverter and get more air up to the intake. However, this would only be functional at speed when there is a positive pressure in front of the radiator. It would not prevent sucking hot air from the engine bay when stopped. A cooling plate (depends which one) can channel air from in front of the radiator.

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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:52 AM
  #82  
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Some dyno shops do have really large fans which would help with the ram effect.
"really large fans" are not what you need. The larger the fan, the more cfm it can throw at your car, which is half the battle (essentially making sure air hits the entire front of the car), but not what will show a ram air affect. What you need is an extremely high speed fan, specifically if you want the affect of driving 60mph, then it has to create 60 mph wind. For this you need a wind tunnel, and can not be created in an open air environment, there are very few dynos that have this available, and all the ones I have found are rated only to ~60-70mph. So there is no way to recreate the affect of driving with a aut cooling plate at even 90 mph, and no where near race track levels at 140+.

Try standing behind the exhaust of a S2000 at 9,000 rpm. The huge volume of air that you feel coming out of the exhaust is being actively SUCKED through the intake. Blowing a little more air into the intake is not going to make much difference.
Ok, good example of how much air is being used by the engine. Now perform the same test to show the difference of air flowing into the intake at speeds assuming funnel/guide for ram air affect. Put your hand (approximately the same front area as the intake horn on the stock air box) out the window at 45mph, then again at 80, and again at 130. That's a little more pressure then what is coming out of the exhaust is it not?
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 07:02 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by s2ka,May 13 2007, 10:22 PM
To put a slightly different perspective on this...

Try standing behind the exhaust of a S2000 at 9,000 rpm. The huge volume of air that you feel coming out of the exhaust is being actively SUCKED through the intake. Blowing a little more air into the intake is not going to make much difference.

The stock diverter plate does a good job of grabbing relatively cool air in front of the radiator and directing it at what is essentially a very powerful vacuum cleaner. Sure, a little air migh be grabbed from the engine compartment at idle, but at speed most of the air is coming in at ambient temperatures.

The stock system also forces air through the radiator, which is crucial to making the radiator work efficiently. Air takes the path of least resistance, if you allow it to spill around the radiator you won't get as much cooling effect and your engine will run a little hotter, reducing power and efficiency. The snorkels that go in front of the radiator also block cool air from hitting that portion of the radiator, which also decreases the engine's cooling efficiency. You'll never see the difference with the simplistic 3 bar gauge, but you would be able to measure it with a digital temp gauge in a controlled test.

And, the stock intake does a good job of providing debri-free and water-free air to the stock intake, which is not the case with many of the aftermarket intakes. It isn't worth it for Honda to use a low restriction air filter to gain a little throttle response... at the expense of letting dust into the engine if it isn't properly maintained.

Honda did a good job with the stock intake. Improving on it is not easy. Mugen and Spoon have the right idea with adding a hole in the upper area of the bumper that grabs completely fresh air and dumps it with a fairly straight path into the intake. The Comptech method isn't too bad as well, grabbing it from the wheelwell area.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 07:42 AM
  #84  
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When I bought my car, it had only the top half of an Injen CAI and it was sucking hot air from the radiator. I was able to lengthen it by adding a piece of another CAI that I had and bring the edge of the filter next to the inner fender well opening, I wrapped all of it with black insulating rubber from commercial air conditioning applications and built a box to encase the filter in it, also installed a flexible duct from under the bumper to the inner fender well opening and blocked the coolant hose on the intake manifold as well. It works great IMO


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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 09:15 AM
  #85  
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I have been usine an AUT cooling plate/CAI for several years now, with the stock rad plate removed. I use a gutted stock air box set up, and have some scoops behind the grill to direct air into the "mouth of the AUT at speed. No matter how hard I drive, I have never seen more than three bars on the engine temp. gage.

I have found that this set-up gives me better mpg and better mid-range power, with no down-side.

I had a really good tech do my 30K mile service a few weeks ago, and the only thing he said about my set up is that I should remove my K&N filter element and go back to stock -- because my set-up was allowing more dirt into the air box and the K&N lacked the filtration to keep it out of my intake. He cleaned the intake, and I put the stock filter element back on, with no decrease in favorable results.
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