Oh, yeah, AP2 fake vents are smaller than AP1, and that would make a difference.

What I have a problem understanding is how CF rad plates without scoops actually benefit in keeping the radiator cooler. The stock piece is really a "rad plate" itself, only it angles up from the top of the grill opening to the rad brace. In contast, the CF plates without scoops (or with them for that matter) run from the inside top of the bumper to the rad brace. Really, all that changes is the angle of the rad plate, so I have a bit of a problem personally seeing that they do anything at all! Yet, I know guys who track their cars hard, and they say it works.

 

"I track my car hard, and it definately works" +1

Someone from AJ Racing was trying to explain it to me, and all I can remember is that since the stock piece has vents to allow some of the air to float up to the stock intake box, the air going towards the radiator is not as pressurized.

Also, the stock piece runs at a downward angle that forces all the air towards the bottom half of the radiator -- since the aftermarket pieces force the air (with presumably more pressure) towards the entire radiator, the cooling effect is increased since the air is hitting the top of the radiator (where the hot fluid flows through first) as well, cooling the fluid off sooner so that by the time it's at the bottom of the radiator it is cooler, and thus even cooler when it leaves.

For instance, J's Racing claims that their "scoopless" piece cools water temps by 20 degrees.

 

I have not read all the post, but do not remove the scoop for the rad. I have the aut cooling plate and removed the scoop for the rad, and heard it was not the best thing to do. Because the way honda designed the the scoop to flow air around the rad. Also you will not really feel any difference with the cooling plate anyway. Unless there is something I am missing with mine.

 

Really...so you have a different theory as to the results of removing the OEM plastic. I don't know who to believe anymore!

 

Yes- Honda designed the car to work well.

Yes- we hear all kinds of "stuff" from all kinds of folks, both knowledgeable and full of poop

Wrong- you will feel a difference at speed.

Yes- you are missing something.

No- the AUT plate will not work without pulling the OEM plastic piece.

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Had my car at the track this past weekend. I'd like to say that the plate(first time running it) made a difference, but have no way to qualify my experience. I do know that I had to dremel the hell out of it to make it fit... and not just because of my hood pins. As dolebludger has already mentioned, I duct-taped any remaining orifices. Since I have removed my hood latch assembly from the car, I taped that area as well with just enough room for the hood's locking bar to go through the plate.

I wonder if my EMS can datalog the high speed effect?

 

I've run both a solid and an aut plate on my S. The aut plate with the honda diverter removed works great.

I have a solid cf plate if anyone wants it. I used it before with a stock vortech intake through the fender well. 75 bucks it's yours. It works fine in that setup. I now run a custom setup fed by the aut plate the fender well and the r side of the radiator.

I was on the dyno last week, we had the fans set up in front and we checked flow.
thru the aut plate intake. The fans blow about 25 mph or so, the volume through the aut plate was excellent. At speed the aut is supplying lots of fresh air.

I think it's an improvement to any airbox

fltsfshr

 

Is there any use using the AUT plate with a comptech CAI? I think not, but I thought I saw one pictured here with that setup and wondered why?

 

All I can say is that I've been using the AUT plate (the one with the CAI scoop) for about two years WITH the stock rad plate removed. I have never overheated. While I don't race the car, I do live in a climate where 105 degrees in the summer won't make the news!

I can only ad two things to this discussion. First, the AUT CAI function does work, and it gives better fuel economy as well as better response. Second, if you feel that removing the stock rad plate will harm you car, so you don't want to do it, DON'T buy an AUT. Without removal of the stock rad plate, the AUT will have no function -- either as a CAI or as a rad cooling plate.

 

I had mine (with the AUT style plate and the OEM plastic removed) in traffic for an hour in Las Vegas at 112 F this summer. It was that hot the whole 3 days I was there. No overheating.

 

It may be the case, however, that the AUT can cause overheating for those involved in serious racing. Anybody out there who tracks his/her car a lot have an AUT to report on this?

I think that for normal use, even involving some aggressive driving, the AUT causes no overheating.