dont take it argue you can get more out of it, never take the 1st offer man I'm telling you

 

^^ can I?? What do I tell them?? I want more because I think the car is worth more than 13? This is the first time iv ever crashed in 6 years of driving, so still kinda new to this

 

Seriously, 92DA9/06AP2
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I was OT apologies
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Not OT, just idiotic...

 

OP, I would talk to the adjuster and tell him that locally and KBB, show a similar car/mileage, go for more than what the insurance wants to payout. Tell them you want another 03' S2K and can't buy one with the amount their giving you. Now again this depends a lot on condition and mileage, so if your over 100,000 that offer might not be too bad. I also checked NADA which some dealerships use and maybe insurance use, and a 03' with 75K miles comes in at $13,100.00 so I would check both NADA and KBB with your exact mileage, options and than if its more than what the insurance is paying out than show them that.

KBB Prices:

2003 S2000 with 100,000 miles

Excellent: $13,498

Good: $12,698

Poor: $11,348


2003 S2000 with 75,000 miles

Excellent: $15,848

Good: $15,048

Poor: $13,698


2003 S2000 with 50,000 miles

Excellent: $18,173

Good: $17,373

Poor: $16,023


Basically how it goes, looks like every 25,000 miles brings in another $ 2,300. Not sure of your mileage, but if yours falls below 75,000 miles and in good condition I would ask for more, even with 85,000 miles I would as a bit more. Than with the extra you got, I would buy the car back from them for a few grand than part it out. The engine and transmission along should get in anywhere from a start of $ 3,000.00 and you still have the rest of the car. The top, all front end parts.. Definitely make you some money. I'm wondering, was the car paid off or did you have a lien from financing?

 

I got back 12,800 for MY00 with 146,000 miles on the clock . Maybe you should shop around for a better company I have statefarm btw

 

How long driving a rwd car?

 

parting out takes forever, work, dealing with lowballers, etc. In the end you have part of a car you eventually need to tow away. If you want cash now to get on with your life, just take the settlement and but a new car.

 

AZ-S2000 is on the right track, DONT GO BY NADA!!! thats what banks and dealers use for prices when they are buying a car KBB is what you would be paying.

Like I said DON'T cash or accept a check, tell them ok to 13 with keeping the car and even that is a little low.

 

Umm banks and dealers use what's called black book. Idk where you guys pull this information from. The majority of people don't have access to the black book though .

The 52-year-old, widely-used Black Book guide is circulation controlled, restricted to dealers and financing sources. Unlike kbb.com and NADA.com, the Black Book Web site does not provide data, only links you to dealers. The Black Book is the only value guide issued weekly instead of monthly, reflecting the latest prices direct from actual or online automobile dealers.

Whereas other value books or value Web sites may break down value into WHOLESALE and RETAIL numbers or TRADE-IN, PRIVATE PARTY and RETAIL, Black Book truly specializes in WHOLESALE VALUE, determining the value of used cars within categories of EXTRA CLEAN, CLEAN, AVERAGE or ROUGH. Although the others also issue editions for special interest/classic/rare cars, the Black Book's Cars of Particular Interest (CPI) value guide contains over 14,000 vehicles, dating from 1946 to 2007.

 

Sorry about your car loss man. Best of luck finding a replacement. And get yourself some high performance driving lessons!


Oh, and drop GEICO. They suck.