Driving S2000 in the Rain
My personal experiences only, OK?
On my '01 AP1, when the OEM S02's became a little bit worn (after only about 7K miles) they became a lilltle unstable on wet roads. I had to replace them at about 11K. The steel belts were showing through! And that is with conservative driving. I replaced those tires with Falken FK 451s (properly re-sized on the rear) and 12K later the car did just fine in the rain today.
Now, of course, I do know how to drive a RWD car that has some power. I feel that many S2k drivers have "grown up" on underpowered FWD cars, and they don't understand the difference. When a FWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, the result is predictable -- the car just torque steers to the right hand ditch. When a RWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, it is generally a result of taking a curve too fast for conditions, and causes the rear end to swing in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION of the turn. Once you learn to drive a high performance RWD car just a bit more conservatively on the wet, there should be no problem.
Driving a car is like playing a guitar. If you go from a Les Paul to a Stratocaster, the "feel" will be totally different until you "learn" the instrument -- and vice versa. It's the same with performance cars. You just have to learn your instrument.
Thanks,
Richard
On my '01 AP1, when the OEM S02's became a little bit worn (after only about 7K miles) they became a lilltle unstable on wet roads. I had to replace them at about 11K. The steel belts were showing through! And that is with conservative driving. I replaced those tires with Falken FK 451s (properly re-sized on the rear) and 12K later the car did just fine in the rain today.
Now, of course, I do know how to drive a RWD car that has some power. I feel that many S2k drivers have "grown up" on underpowered FWD cars, and they don't understand the difference. When a FWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, the result is predictable -- the car just torque steers to the right hand ditch. When a RWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, it is generally a result of taking a curve too fast for conditions, and causes the rear end to swing in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION of the turn. Once you learn to drive a high performance RWD car just a bit more conservatively on the wet, there should be no problem.
Driving a car is like playing a guitar. If you go from a Les Paul to a Stratocaster, the "feel" will be totally different until you "learn" the instrument -- and vice versa. It's the same with performance cars. You just have to learn your instrument.
Thanks,
Richard
[QUOTE]The car is no harder to drive in the rain than a Civic. You just have to make a few adjustments to allow for the cars design intent. If you do all will be well, and if you don't, be sure to post some pictures.
Originally Posted by dolebludger,Jul 10 2006, 10:52 PM
My personal experiences only, OK?
On my '01 AP1, when the OEM S02's became a little bit worn (after only about 7K miles) they became a lilltle unstable on wet roads. I had to replace them at about 11K. The steel belts were showing through! And that is with conservative driving. I replaced those tires with Falken FK 451s (properly re-sized on the rear) and 12K later the car did just fine in the rain today.
Now, of course, I do know how to drive a RWD car that has some power. I feel that many S2k drivers have "grown up" on underpowered FWD cars, and they don't understand the difference. When a FWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, the result is predictable -- the car just torque steers to the right hand ditch. When a RWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, it is generally a result of taking a curve too fast for conditions, and causes the rear end to swing in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION of the turn. Once you learn to drive a high performance RWD car just a bit more conservatively on the wet, there should be no problem.
Driving a car is like playing a guitar. If you go from a Les Paul to a Stratocaster, the "feel" will be totally different until you "learn" the instrument -- and vice versa. It's the same with performance cars. You just have to learn your instrument.
Thanks,
Richard
On my '01 AP1, when the OEM S02's became a little bit worn (after only about 7K miles) they became a lilltle unstable on wet roads. I had to replace them at about 11K. The steel belts were showing through! And that is with conservative driving. I replaced those tires with Falken FK 451s (properly re-sized on the rear) and 12K later the car did just fine in the rain today.
Now, of course, I do know how to drive a RWD car that has some power. I feel that many S2k drivers have "grown up" on underpowered FWD cars, and they don't understand the difference. When a FWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, the result is predictable -- the car just torque steers to the right hand ditch. When a RWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, it is generally a result of taking a curve too fast for conditions, and causes the rear end to swing in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION of the turn. Once you learn to drive a high performance RWD car just a bit more conservatively on the wet, there should be no problem.
Driving a car is like playing a guitar. If you go from a Les Paul to a Stratocaster, the "feel" will be totally different until you "learn" the instrument -- and vice versa. It's the same with performance cars. You just have to learn your instrument.
Thanks,
Richard
I have never gotten more than 5,000 miles out of a set of rear tires. At that point they still have tread, but not enough to be comforting in the rain. Fresh back tires are important to keeping the car safe, especially when the roads are wet.
Well, if there are any FWD cars with oversteer, I'd be eager to hear of the make and model so I could test drive one -- as I have never experienced such a thing. Same for any FWD car with neutral steering. Every FWD car I have driven has understeered so much that it tended to "plow" straight ahead, even if I turned. And, I've never driven any FWD car where torque steer had been fully eliminated. Floor them, and they all pull to the right with the crown in the road.
And, I don't think the S2k has TRUE oversteer. To experience that, just go drive a 60's VW Beelte or Porche. They turn MORE than you steer in, even at low speed with no throttle. The S2k, instead, may simulate oversteer under agressige driving conditions, when its rear end breaks out in the opposite direction of the turn -- but this is only a simulation of oversteer under extreme conditions. Under normal driving conditions, I find the S2k to have neutral steering.
And I don't know what to tell you about tires. My Falken FK 451s have 13K on them, and look like they all may have another 13K in them -- even the rears. And they are holding well in the rain, too. Any owners who are having to replace rears as often as every 7K miles need to go to an allignment shop and have some "toe in" adjusted out of the rear end. I'm running less than 4mm toe in on the rears, and am thinking about reducing that. When I had my rear toe in reduced at my dealers (a good one) I was advised to be careful as the car might be a bit "twitchy". To the contrary, I found the car more stable, enabling me to take the "twisties" at a higher speed than ever. But then, the driver is part of the equasion, isn't he/she?
Thanks,
Richard
And, I don't think the S2k has TRUE oversteer. To experience that, just go drive a 60's VW Beelte or Porche. They turn MORE than you steer in, even at low speed with no throttle. The S2k, instead, may simulate oversteer under agressige driving conditions, when its rear end breaks out in the opposite direction of the turn -- but this is only a simulation of oversteer under extreme conditions. Under normal driving conditions, I find the S2k to have neutral steering.
And I don't know what to tell you about tires. My Falken FK 451s have 13K on them, and look like they all may have another 13K in them -- even the rears. And they are holding well in the rain, too. Any owners who are having to replace rears as often as every 7K miles need to go to an allignment shop and have some "toe in" adjusted out of the rear end. I'm running less than 4mm toe in on the rears, and am thinking about reducing that. When I had my rear toe in reduced at my dealers (a good one) I was advised to be careful as the car might be a bit "twitchy". To the contrary, I found the car more stable, enabling me to take the "twisties" at a higher speed than ever. But then, the driver is part of the equasion, isn't he/she?
Thanks,
Richard
Originally Posted by dolebludger,Jul 10 2006, 10:52 PM
Well, if there are any FWD cars with oversteer, I'd be eager to hear of the make and model
Originally Posted by dolebludger,Jul 10 2006, 08:52 PM
When a RWD car "breaks loose" on the wet, it is generally a result of taking a curve too fast for conditions, and causes the rear end to swing in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION of the turn.
Originally Posted by dolebludger,Jul 10 2006, 08:52 PM
Once you learn to drive a high performance RWD car just a bit more conservatively on the wet, there should be no problem.
I have been driving like a bat outta Hell my entire life. I have cheated death a few times...ok, more than a few times. I have always had a passion for cars and racing in general. I have always had an interest in car control and driving with style. When ever I head or read about a car accident, whether it be on the street, or the race track, I was interested in obtaining as much information as possible so what happened to the person/people involved, I would try to not let it happen to me. Driving go carts doesnt hurt either
I dun't care what anyone says, the Honda Del Sol Civic VTEC is one faaasssst biotch. I hit 105 mph through Golden Gate Park a few times




