dropping out of VTEC when shifting
AP2s have no problem staying in VTEC from 3-4...again...look at the calculator it shows where the RPMs fall between shifts. And 2-3 would be right at VTEC if you shift just before fuel cutoff...but if you shift at redline, RPMs fall a couple hundred out...probably would never even notice that.
And yes...the ap1 just barely falls out of VTEC for 1-2 if you shift at redline, but it's not out for long enough to notice. If you shift just before fuel cutoff, the ap1 is in VTEC the entire time.
Look guys...this isn't rocket science but it is clear cut mathematics. You guys are trying to say that 2+2=6k and it's not. Your cars are not any faster or slower than they were yesterday. But there is a clear advantage for your cars if you remove the CDV so you aren't slipping the clutch and then lower the VTEC engagement point (which you can do for about $100 with a used VAFC-I off eBay or get a VAFC-II for $175 plus have it professionally tuned for a bit more gain).
And yes...the ap1 just barely falls out of VTEC for 1-2 if you shift at redline, but it's not out for long enough to notice. If you shift just before fuel cutoff, the ap1 is in VTEC the entire time.
Look guys...this isn't rocket science but it is clear cut mathematics. You guys are trying to say that 2+2=6k and it's not. Your cars are not any faster or slower than they were yesterday. But there is a clear advantage for your cars if you remove the CDV so you aren't slipping the clutch and then lower the VTEC engagement point (which you can do for about $100 with a used VAFC-I off eBay or get a VAFC-II for $175 plus have it professionally tuned for a bit more gain).
Mathmatically its clear, but at WOT, the slipping does in fact keep the car in vtec. Healthy or not, an AP2 will stay in vtec with a CDV and a fast shift. Its not 2+2, its 2+2+CDV...
As Elistan's video showed, if you just normally shift from 1-2 at redline and maintain 36 mph, the car will drop below vtec, so there the math holds up. Of course, if you're not trying to accelerate hard, you don't need vtec either...
At any rate, I think you're correct negcamber when you state that removing the CDV and lowering vtec with a VAFC is probably the best thing for an AP2 to get some more power.
As Elistan's video showed, if you just normally shift from 1-2 at redline and maintain 36 mph, the car will drop below vtec, so there the math holds up. Of course, if you're not trying to accelerate hard, you don't need vtec either...
At any rate, I think you're correct negcamber when you state that removing the CDV and lowering vtec with a VAFC is probably the best thing for an AP2 to get some more power.
Here ya go. Post MY03 slave cylinder install:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...68079221964566
This shows 1->2 and 2->3 shifts.
Notice it still slips, as many others have reported. I was disappointed in the change, to be honest.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...68079221964566
This shows 1->2 and 2->3 shifts.
Notice it still slips, as many others have reported. I was disappointed in the change, to be honest.
If the clutch is slipping...the car ain't zipping. 
So, if the clutch slips, the car stays in VTEC, but not all the power is making it to the ground. Or, the clutch does not slip and the car falls out of VTEC where it is not producing max hp.

So, if the clutch slips, the car stays in VTEC, but not all the power is making it to the ground. Or, the clutch does not slip and the car falls out of VTEC where it is not producing max hp.
Imagine an AP2 with an upgraded clutch (even just a pressure plate) sans CDV that can rev to 9000. Shifts land you right at when VTEC is kicking in and you'd have little to no slip.
ACT pressure plate is next up on my list. Shifting at AP2 redline on my car the clutch holds fine. However shifting at 8500+ on a really hard shift in the heat of the moment usually results in a lot of slippage.
ACT pressure plate is next up on my list. Shifting at AP2 redline on my car the clutch holds fine. However shifting at 8500+ on a really hard shift in the heat of the moment usually results in a lot of slippage.
Originally Posted by negcamber' date='Mar 21 2007, 07:46 PM
So, if the clutch slips, the car stays in VTEC, but not all the power is making it to the ground.
Unfortunately, the current owner of my old AP2 now has an issue with the clutch not gripping at all during fast shifts - it'll bounce off the rev-limit if he doesn't let off the gas. My understanding from Billman's posting is that the issue is the heavier AP2 flywheel.

All in all, faster or slower, I much prefer the driving experience of the AP1. <shrug> YMMV.
Originally Posted by Elistan' date='Mar 21 2007, 08:30 PM
So there's still the same transfer of energy as if the clutch gripped immediately, it just happens a bit more slowly. Ultimately, all that energy is still making it to the ground.
But think about it...if a slipping clutch let all the power to the wheels then there would never be a reason to change a slipping clutch...the car's performance would be the same. And we all know that is not the case...a car without a slipping clutch is faster than one with a slipping clutch.
Originally Posted by negcamber' date='Mar 20 2007, 04:05 PM
This is well known...the ap2 does drop below 6k on up shift from 1st to 2nd regardless of shifting at redline or just before fuel cut-off. It will also drop out of VTEC from 2nd to 3rd if you shift at redline.
To prove it to yourself use the following calculator:
http://www.turnzero.com/technical_resource...gear_calculator
To prove it to yourself use the following calculator:
http://www.turnzero.com/technical_resource...gear_calculator






