dyno figure estimate?
thanks for the reality check
well i was thinking of running a open box and open bonnet with the fan directly aimed at the air scoop.
my ones a AP1, and i meticulously take care of it, the car just received its major service 1000km's ago and all was inspected and good to go.
mileage is about 55 000 miles (90 000 kms)
im hoping for at leat 190hp (141 kw) ATW.
i will take into consideration the feedback you guys have given.
i was also considering having a oil change just before the dyno, i heard this will give a few extra ponies on the dyno , is this right?
well i was thinking of running a open box and open bonnet with the fan directly aimed at the air scoop.
my ones a AP1, and i meticulously take care of it, the car just received its major service 1000km's ago and all was inspected and good to go.
mileage is about 55 000 miles (90 000 kms)
im hoping for at leat 190hp (141 kw) ATW.
i will take into consideration the feedback you guys have given.
i was also considering having a oil change just before the dyno, i heard this will give a few extra ponies on the dyno , is this right?
not sure about the oil thing.. but from what ive heard is that if you have an older AP1 (00-01) such as yours, if you swap over an ECU from a MY02-03 that it will actually gain some decent power
stock s2k's are rated from factory at 240hp at the crank, and usually about 190+whp for AP1's and 200+whp for AP2's i believe? i never had mine baselined back when i was NA.. but for the most part, those are the average numbers i see posted here on s2ki (also dependant upon what kind of dyno was used, im referring to dynojet charts posted here)
Originally Posted by rocrfella,Sep 17 2007, 02:04 PM
I thought the S2000 came stock with 240hp. Maybe at the crank is 240hp, so what's the rear wheel horsepower for a stock one?
00-01/190hp
02-03/195hp
04-07/200-205hp
The early years suffer from a richer fuel mix from the ECU, this is why the 02-03 ECU was suggested for some added performance. They have a leaner mapping. The VAFC2 will negate this however so do one or the other, may not be worth doing both. You can get better gains from the Vafc2 alone.
215hp is possible for you but may be a bit of a strech depending o a few of the factors mentioned before. I took in consideration that you would be utilizing a TP with your cat back as well, but don't think you mentioned that? If you did it would increase your HP and Tq throughout your entire rpm range and make 215 quite likley with your Vafc. It is illegal however and may weigh on your environmental mind if you have one. Do some research on this if your interested as there can be some other things to consider.
If your expectations are to only make 190hp with these mods then you will be pleasantly supprised by your results.
For your question about the Vafc open loop operation and resetting the ECU, i'll explain briefly and as simply as I can as it can get a bit complicated. -- I'll just say that open and closed loop could be described as the function status of your ECU. Open loop means it will enterpet outside sources such as weather,elevation and other factors involved to maintain proper safe running conditions of your engine and related hardware. Your ECU effects this during partial throttle only.
Once your foot is floored, your ECU goes into automatic closed loop operation and does not account for the same outside information to dictate the tuning of your ECU. The draw back to a open loop tune is that since this is your ECU's learning operation, it will re learn your factory fuel settings over time even if you change them on the VAFC, this means you will need to re set your ECU or what I do sometimes is just make some ajustments to the Vafc to compensate when necesary which seems to fluctuate. Your closed loop Vafc settings will never change, the best bang for your buck is to have both closed and open loop settings done. Hope this all makes sense. You can pm me if you have more questions.
Thanks for the advice.
I get what your saying about the open and closed loop.
My exhaust will no come with a test pipe as it would be a major emissions and sound pollution defect in AUS.
Im happy to make a decent gain of 190 hp as i do not want to aim too high.
any more info on the HKS losing or gaining power?
does anyone have any recommendations as to how i should run on the dyno?
What i mean is should i run:
open or closed box?
open or closed bonnet?
straps or no straps on the dyno?
16" standard or 18" lightweights?
I get what your saying about the open and closed loop.
My exhaust will no come with a test pipe as it would be a major emissions and sound pollution defect in AUS.
Im happy to make a decent gain of 190 hp as i do not want to aim too high.
any more info on the HKS losing or gaining power?
does anyone have any recommendations as to how i should run on the dyno?
What i mean is should i run:
open or closed box?
open or closed bonnet?
straps or no straps on the dyno?
16" standard or 18" lightweights?
Run the car on the dyno the way you want to run it on the street. Why do it any other way. I mean, really it doesn't matter if you can make your dyno numbers say that you have an extra 5hp...just have the dyno numbers say what your numbers will truely be everyday.
However, a lot of times they run open bonnet on a dyno to keep the engine cooler...
Now that you know your numbers wont be to high, and that we know you aren't expecting much. Know this, your car will sound great and you will really like it. The HKS sounds really nice. And you should make more then 190hp. Around 190 is stock. You WILL gain power with the VAFC if it is tuned right. 10hp should be easy, especially on an early AP1.
However, a lot of times they run open bonnet on a dyno to keep the engine cooler...
Now that you know your numbers wont be to high, and that we know you aren't expecting much. Know this, your car will sound great and you will really like it. The HKS sounds really nice. And you should make more then 190hp. Around 190 is stock. You WILL gain power with the VAFC if it is tuned right. 10hp should be easy, especially on an early AP1.
Originally Posted by Silver9k,Sep 17 2007, 05:33 PM
Run the car on the dyno the way you want to run it on the street. Why do it any other way. I mean, really it doesn't matter if you can make your dyno numbers say that you have an extra 5hp...just have the dyno numbers say what your numbers will truely be everyday.
However, a lot of times they run open bonnet on a dyno to keep the engine cooler...
Now that you know your numbers wont be to high, and that we know you aren't expecting much. Know this, your car will sound great and you will really like it. The HKS sounds really nice. And you should make more then 190hp. Around 190 is stock. You WILL gain power with the VAFC if it is tuned right. 10hp should be easy, especially on an early AP1.
However, a lot of times they run open bonnet on a dyno to keep the engine cooler...
Now that you know your numbers wont be to high, and that we know you aren't expecting much. Know this, your car will sound great and you will really like it. The HKS sounds really nice. And you should make more then 190hp. Around 190 is stock. You WILL gain power with the VAFC if it is tuned right. 10hp should be easy, especially on an early AP1.
I have also heard around here that the HKS may lose some power. I'm not sure why this would be, HKS is a good company from what ive gathered with some R&D time. I would expect if nothing else for you to gain a couple if not 5hp. The stock piping is descent but can be improved in places pretty easily with less bends and smoothed over connecting points, most of the gain will come from the strait through muffler portion which I belive the HKS has and like every other after market cat back on the market.
I assume you were referring to 16" or 18" wheels? You can't get anything lighter then your factory 16's at 14pounds, so if performance is what your wanting, stay with these. If you have to have wider tread, go with 17". I have seen as wide as 10" and still under 18pounds, they are the best compromise






