Okay, I'm stuck at home today on SDO (don't ask), so I take my phone out to my car to do a little preventive maintenance. I missed a meet with J.P. and Bryan today, but I could still do some S stuff. It didn't snow yesterday and the temp is almost 40F today. Summer is coming!!

I checked the fluids and some other stuff...

Next comes the spark plug cover and coils.
Spark plug #1 is fine, I pull it and check its color. Okay. Reinstall and torque to 18 ft/lbs.
Spark plug #2 is ONLY HAND TIGHT! I pull it and check its color. Okay. Reinstall and torque to 18 ft/lbs.
Spark plugs 3 & 4 are okay.
All plugs have the same coloring. So it looks as though I have a good air/fuel ratio in all cylinders.

What concerns me is how loose #2 was! Greg Stevens and a few others have posted threads about disintegrating engines because plug #2 backed out on them. I've never had a problem but I'm getting a few miles on the odo now (quickly approaching 60k!). I don't use the stock plugs, I use Iridiums, and I generally check on them every 6-8k miles. Enough of this story, I'm just bored again.


GO AND CHECK YOUR SPARK PLUG TORQUE! I GUARANTEE a few of you will come back here and thank me


Regards

 

ReedZ, what year is your S? I guess since you have 60k miles, it's not a new one. I thought this problem was solved with the spark plug TSB last year?

 

Did you have the spark plug TSB done, and they loosened anyway?

Please tell us, this is an important piece of information.

 

I couldn't have the TSB done because I changed the type of plugs I use to Iridiums YEARS ago. I seem to remember that Honda claimed that the plug washers were the cause of the plugs backing out. Correct me if I'm wrong. I wonder now if this was completely accurate information, and whether this is simply some harmonic characteristic of the F20C.


Of course, YMMV.

 

Will the Honda dealer re-torque my spark plugs for free (I'm not under warranty any more)? Or where can I buy a torque wrench? Or is it possible just to hand tighten?

 

I have been using the Iridium plugs for a long time and with a little anti-seize and torqued to 18 lbs. After warnings from a lot of people I have checked mine numerous times and have had no further problems.It was only the factory plugs that were loose the first time I checked them. The anti-seize works as a lube so the torque is probably a little higher than the updated 18 lb. spec. I think it is the high rpm harmonics that loosen the plugs and the new washers are a way to counter the affects.

 

Sears has good torque wrenches.

If you want cheap, you can get them at harborfreight.com ...better than nothing.

 

Here's a little tip: Don't use too much anti-seize, and what you put on should be at the leading threads, not back near the washer. You want good friction at the washer to help prevent back-out.

 

I believe it is a matter of torque AND the type of crush ring. The recall upped the torque from 13 to 18. I happened to chech another Calgary owner who did the plug recall few months ago. Most of his plugs were less than the desired torque. One was below 10. This is the same dealer who did his last oil change. The oil filter came off with very gentle twisting. I figure the mechanic didn't "oil" the gasket first. So much for his dealers competence.
I tell you this because I also did the recall BUT I put the new plugs in myself and I had done it some months BEFORE this owner. Mine did NOT move. They were at the torque that I put them in with.
As an additional point, before the recall, I had screwed my "old" plugs in with 20 ft.#s. I'd check them every couple of months and they were all back down to about 10-12. Only after about the the 3rd tightening did they stay put. By then, I did the new recall plugs.
Bottom line: The new plugs with at least 18ft.#s is good to go.

 

you can get a torque wrecnch at any auto parts store, or a sears or menards...some can be expensive ($100 +), otherwise if your dealer won't do it under warranty, they may charge you 1/2 hour labor or so....probably like $30 - 40 max....just call them up and ask!