Go to your engine and check your...
06-29-2004, 03:50 PM
#91
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I adjusted mine......not to be a buzzkill but I don't like the idea of the throttle hitting that "bump stop" and having that cable stretch as the pedal goes further to the floor. I adjusted mine back so that as the throttle is in the WOT position the gas pedal is getting to the floor at roughly the same time. Not sure how strong those cables are, but that'd be the last thing I want to break while out driving around......I dunno, can anyone else chime in on this???
06-29-2004, 09:43 PM
#93
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Originally posted by oOweEe
Just making sure...
so when its tightened the gas pedal should have better response and makin the car "jump" or accelerate faster and smoother??
Just making sure...
so when its tightened the gas pedal should have better response and makin the car "jump" or accelerate faster and smoother??
06-30-2004, 07:31 AM
#94
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I just walked out side got a 12mm and it took literally 1 min to do. Mine was really loose. If you have the hood open (and are tall enough) you can actually see the throttle from the cabin and watch and as you hit the pedal to see how tight it is.
01-17-2008, 07:35 AM
#97
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just so we clear this up and put it into plain, clear words ( i havent done this yet, but im guessing this is how it goes)
Step 1: Open Hood
Step 2: Locate throttle cable
Step 3: Locate index finger
Step 4: Place index finger underneith the exposed cable just before the throttle body.
Step 5: Lift index finger upwards to check for slack.
Step 6: Measure the amount of deflection ( how much the cable moves up from resting position.) If it is more than say 1/2 " an adjustment is in order.
Step 7: Locate the adjustment nuts which are located just to the right of where your index finger was.
Step 8: There should be two nuts holding the cable to a bracket. Loosen the nut on the left to allow the cable to move away from the throttle body, taking away any unwanted slack.
Step 9: Tighten the nut on the right side of the bracket not to secure the cable.
Step 10: Remeasure the deflection of the cable. Make sure it is no less than 3/16", but no more than 1/2".
Step 11: Close hood, open door, insert key, push ignition, rev up, smile largely.
NOW GO HIT MAD VTAK YO!!!11!11
Step 1: Open Hood
Step 2: Locate throttle cable
Step 3: Locate index finger
Step 4: Place index finger underneith the exposed cable just before the throttle body.
Step 5: Lift index finger upwards to check for slack.
Step 6: Measure the amount of deflection ( how much the cable moves up from resting position.) If it is more than say 1/2 " an adjustment is in order.
Step 7: Locate the adjustment nuts which are located just to the right of where your index finger was.
Step 8: There should be two nuts holding the cable to a bracket. Loosen the nut on the left to allow the cable to move away from the throttle body, taking away any unwanted slack.
Step 9: Tighten the nut on the right side of the bracket not to secure the cable.
Step 10: Remeasure the deflection of the cable. Make sure it is no less than 3/16", but no more than 1/2".
Step 11: Close hood, open door, insert key, push ignition, rev up, smile largely.
NOW GO HIT MAD VTAK YO!!!11!11
01-17-2008, 09:54 AM
#98
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MY definition and method of measuring "free play" for the throttle cable is back and forward motion, not up and down motion.
my logic is that the throttle cable travels back and forth, not up and down...so in measuring free play, up and down motion is irrelevant.
my logic is that the throttle cable travels back and forth, not up and down...so in measuring free play, up and down motion is irrelevant.
01-17-2008, 12:27 PM
#99
I just want to add to the thread and give you guys my experience with this method.
First off, thanks eg6aaarrr!!! for the instructions you re-did cuz that actually helped me even though the instructions were already posted. You made it more detailed and simple.
The whole thing took me about 5 minutes once I found a wrench and a ruler. Very simple but you need to mess with the little locknuts first to see which way tightens and loosens them. You'll figure it out.
I'm about 5'8" and was able to sorta stand outside of the car with my foot on the pedal still and watch the butterfly valve open as I pushed the pedal.
Before, there was about 1/2" of play with the wire, but I adjusted it to about 1/4". Also, if I barely pushed down on the pedal, there was too much play in the cable for the car to rev. After making the adjustment, even a light glide on the pedal will rev the car. Don't worry though, I was afraid of it being too responsive at first too (car being jumpy).
It's actually the perfect amount of responsiveness the car needed still not to the point where you're going to launch into someone by barely blipping the gas.
It's also smoother shifting now since you had to push the pedal in more before in between shifts until it actually revved. Rev-matching is also a little easier now.
The change isn't huge but I am definitely glad I did this. The biggest issue I had before is starting in first since the car tended to bog a little.
Cliff Notes: 5 minute procedure, smoother shifting, starting, more responsiveness.
First off, thanks eg6aaarrr!!! for the instructions you re-did cuz that actually helped me even though the instructions were already posted. You made it more detailed and simple.
The whole thing took me about 5 minutes once I found a wrench and a ruler. Very simple but you need to mess with the little locknuts first to see which way tightens and loosens them. You'll figure it out.
I'm about 5'8" and was able to sorta stand outside of the car with my foot on the pedal still and watch the butterfly valve open as I pushed the pedal.
Before, there was about 1/2" of play with the wire, but I adjusted it to about 1/4". Also, if I barely pushed down on the pedal, there was too much play in the cable for the car to rev. After making the adjustment, even a light glide on the pedal will rev the car. Don't worry though, I was afraid of it being too responsive at first too (car being jumpy).
It's actually the perfect amount of responsiveness the car needed still not to the point where you're going to launch into someone by barely blipping the gas.
It's also smoother shifting now since you had to push the pedal in more before in between shifts until it actually revved. Rev-matching is also a little easier now.
The change isn't huge but I am definitely glad I did this. The biggest issue I had before is starting in first since the car tended to bog a little.
Cliff Notes: 5 minute procedure, smoother shifting, starting, more responsiveness.