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Well, after a few minor tweaks, the Homelink is finally installed. First, I had to trim up the module for an easy fit. I removed the extraneous tabs from the outside with a Dremel tool. This left me with only three irregularities from a straight rectangle. There are two shoulders on either side where the module has "hinges" for opening the box. The third area is where the wires plug in. I kept the original wire connector, but made a nip and cut here and there to make it fit better. The fit is extremely tight front to back. As I stated earlier, there is a wire frame inside the visor which limits placement.
Next I carved out the three irregularities from the foam inside the visor for a perfect fit. The visor is thicker than the module, and is also tapered front to back. The best option would be to carve out a pocket from the front side and leave part of the foam in place at the back. I elected not to do this at this time due to lack of proper covering for the front side. I was able to carve from the back side with impunity. The fuzzy side looks like crap now, but I hope Rick will soon have leather covers available.
Since the visor is thicker than the module, I'm left with a defect in the back. I used a piece of poster board to fill in the extra thickness. This is available at hobby or art stores. It is a large sheet of thin styrofoam covered with thick paper. It is easily cut and can be compressed somewhat. I cut out a piece (actually two) to fit the defect in the back. This made up perfectly for the difference in thickness at the leading edge of the visor where it is thickest. I compressed the second piece to make up for the taper in the visor. Lastly, I took a very thin pice of plexiglass to make a hard plate for the back. This is also available in art or hobby stores. It is often used to cover pictures in frames. It can be cut by scoring a line, then cracking along the line. I slide a large piece under the fuzzy covering to make the install more solid and to keep the module from pushing back when the buttons are pushed. A smaller piece of this could be placed in front if the cavity isn't tight enough to hold the module firmly in place.
Once I was satisfied with the fit, I cut out openings for the buttons on the smooth front side of the visor. I used the piece of fabric I saved from the original visor as a template. Three holes later, I snapped the cover back on and viola! On to the wiring.
I replaced the original wires as I pretty much buggered them up trying to get them out of the original visor. They are pressed into the plug and held in place with friction. There are little metal blades on either side which cut through the insulation and make the contact. I then ran the wires out the "pin" end of the visor. This is where the visor pivots near the map lights. I put a small hole in the plactic cover next to the opening for the pin. I ran the wires inside the compartment for the map light.
Since I want this to be a removable mod (although I only plan on removing it to recover the visor with leather) I used blade connectors inside the map light compartment. I then ran wires across the trim lining the windshield. This unsnaps after removing the visor and the a-pillar trim which simply pulls out.
This is a good time to explain why I didn't just wire it in to the map light. I want the remote protected from anyone trying to use it without the keys in the car. Therefore I wanted a switched source. Contrary to what others had posted, the Homelink has non-volatile memory which means it doesn't need a constant power source to retain the codes. So I used an open socket on the fuse box which has switched power.
Both MajorHavoc and Walkabt wired into the map light. Not to fault them, but their install is less secure. If this doesn't matter to the rest of you, it makes the install much easier. Neither of them used a fuse for their install. I am comtemplating it, but would appreciate any input.
I tapped into the fuse box for power and used the nearby ground screw. I'll post some more pictures tomorrow. Hope this helps and inspires some of you. Thanks again to MajorHavoc and Walkabt for their help.
If enough people are interested in a group buy for new modules, I would organize it. The modules can be had on ebay for much less money, but are pretty scarce.
Congratulations on the install, you will enjoy this mod!
I am very sure you will lose your codes, if not immediately, very shortly if you have an intellicode (billion code opener). I had problems with the S2000 unit losing the intellicode frequency for my garage door and the gate code when the power went on and off, from my first attempt. My other cars have constant power to the homelink module, just as RJ_S2K's does.
The security issue is not there for me. I have a gate. I don't leave the car parked on the street top down and unlocked. The worst they could do to me is open the gate if I did that... From the gate the garage is too far away to open with the unit.
Who leaves an unlocked, top down S2000 in front of their closed garage door? You would put the car in the garage first. I also tried scanning the code from the homelink to another remote and it wouldn't grab it.
The only issue I have is that all of my units (homelink and actual remotes) only work about 10 feet from my doors. That's good for security, not great for convenience.
Shot of my install. I had too many problems finding someone to install in the visor. I just removed passenger side visor and used the new angled Cadillac module. Nobody notices it.
