The only thing you need wait for three bars for is to VTEC the engine.

 

Start it, idle for about 30 seconds (during this time, I'm usually hooking my iPod up and taking wallet and phone out of my pockets and stashing them in the center box), then grandma it around for at least several kilometers, since the oil always takes longer to get up to temperature than the coolant..

After that, it's free game

 

well, they will tell you to drive immediately - they want another customer in 15 years It's the same reason that the Civic manual tells you that you can change your oil every 12,000km - and the oil filter every 24,000km. That's sure to wear things, and they're sure you'll buy another one before too long.

I agree, waiting until three bars is silly, but 30 seconds or so isn't.

 

Same way I do the S2000. Start engine, wait a few seconds, drive off. Keep revs below 1/3 max (2,200 RPM for the beater, 3,000 for the S2000) initially, increasing the max until the engine is fully warmed. Our beater warms up in about 1/4 the distance it takes the S2000 to warm up, so it gets run harder, sooner, but only becaue the termperatures stabalize more quickly.

In this respect, there is no need to treat the S2000 any different than any other car. Letting the car idle until it's warm is harder on the engine than driving the car right away, regardless of the kind of car that's involved.

 

I do the same.
2 bar for me. Then drive conservatively until the car's fully warmed up.(engine, transmission, etc.)
That takes about 10-15 minute drive. Then, VTEC!!

Dan

 

I find it amazing that there are still people around that think they are doing their "Precious" a favor by letting it idle to 2 or 3 or whatever number of bars on the temp gauge before starting to drive.
To them I would like to say: "You're actually hurting your engine AND your gearbox!"

Cold engines use, as mentioned, a little more fuel.
Even modern fuel injected engines with smart ECU's.
That extra fuel washes some oil of the cylinder walls, that's BAD for lubrication.
Fuel is thinner then oil so its easier to pass the piston rings and it will dilute your oil.
Again, fuel is NO lubricant.
At idle revs your engine's water pump is not pumping that much.
Your engine will not warm up evenly.
At idle revs your engine's oil pump is not pumping much either, the oil is still thick too, it can take up to 20! minutes of normal DRIVING to get the oil to operating temp, I guess we all agree that an engine at operating temp is best for the engine so its BEST to get there as fas as you can, DRIVING conservatively.
Your gearbox will be cold when you start your engine, the primary shaft is spinning at idle revs without oil pressure, all the oil it gets is what's splashed up by 1st and 2nd gear set.
The gearbox's oil pump does NOT pump when the car is not moving!
Its best to warm up all mechanical parts of your car at the same time: engine, gearbox, diff, CV's, wheel bearings and your tires.

The only procedure in any weather is: start, wait up to 30 secs in really cold weather, less in warmer weather and drive conservatively until all parts are at operating temp.

If you still think you're doing your engine a favor idling to any temp you are... not very smart

 

start it. 30 seconds. and iam off.

keep it under 3k until i have 3 bars. you do have to shift pretty quick.

 

[QUOTE=SpitfireS,Jan 13 2008, 07:04 PM]I find it amazing that there are still people around that think they are doing their "Precious" a favor by letting it idle to 2 or 3 or whatever number of bars on the temp gauge before starting to drive.
To them I would like to say: "You're actually hurting your engine AND your gearbox!"

Cold engines use, as mentioned, a little more fuel.
Even modern fuel injected engines with smart ECU's.
That extra fuel washes some oil of the cylinder walls, that's BAD for lubrication.
Fuel is thinner then oil so its easier to pass the piston rings and it will dilute your oil.
Again, fuel is NO lubricant.
At idle revs your engine's water pump is not pumping that much.
Your engine will not warm up evenly.
At idle revs your engine's oil pump is not pumping much either, the oil is still thick too, it can take up to 20! minutes of normal DRIVING to get the oil to operating temp, I guess we all agree that an engine at operating temp is best for the engine so its BEST to get there as fas as you can, DRIVING conservatively.
Your gearbox will be cold when you start your engine, the primary shaft is spinning at idle revs without oil pressure, all the oil it gets is what's splashed up by 1st and 2nd gear set.
The gearbox's oil pump does NOT pump when the car is not moving!
Its best to warm up all mechanical parts of your car at the same time: engine, gearbox, diff, CV's, wheel bearings and your tires.

The only procedure in any weather is: start, wait up to 30 secs in really cold weather, less in warmer weather and drive conservatively until all parts are at operating temp.

If you still think you're doing your engine a favor idling to any temp you are... not very smart

 

Tried keeping it under 3k again tonight as well (for the last time). The cold idle was almost 2K, so I basically had 1K of rpms in 1st, got to 3K, shift to 2nd 2800, 3000 shift to 3rd 2800, When I got to 5th, the rpms dropped to about 2600, but a 200rpm shift spacing is just silly, and the extra shifting can't be good for the tranny.

 

i let it idle just long enough for the initial 'whining/whistling' sound stops from the engine bay. (ive read about what it was just cant remember at the moment)