How do you launch?
I dont know if you could make it sound any simpler, sounds interesting. Never heard of such a thing.
08-26-2003, 05:26 PM
#22
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6500-6800 and side step the clutch, i got 25000 miles with at least 50 or 60 hard launches, and then my clutch gave out.....I was dissappointed, but impressed that it withstood that long to the torture i put my car through the first year i had it....now im calming down quite a bit more, so i hope to get more life out of this clutch!
08-26-2003, 05:58 PM
#23
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Now that I am supercharged it takes 4500 to launch the car.
I wish I could explain it better. It does take hand eye cordination and it maybe complicated for some. All I know is, I can launch hard with out burning the clutch or bogging out. It is 2nd nature to me now. Again, I learned on site at the SCCA Pro Solo out here in Fort Worth back in April.
I wish I could explain it better. It does take hand eye cordination and it maybe complicated for some. All I know is, I can launch hard with out burning the clutch or bogging out. It is 2nd nature to me now. Again, I learned on site at the SCCA Pro Solo out here in Fort Worth back in April.
08-26-2003, 06:03 PM
#24
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Maybe I should make a video and have someone host it on the internet.
Push the button in on the emergency brake lever, lift and hold in an upward postion, rev to 6K, engage the clutch or lift up, while holding the e-brake upward, so that the car wouldN'T start to move. Now you are pre-loading or adding tension to the entire driveline. The e-brake is holding you back, as soon as you hit the "FRICTION ZONE" (read below for explanation)
DO ALL AT THE SAME TIME:
Disengage the clutch or push the clutch down, start to engage the clutch or lift your foot up(slightly), get ready to move your foot to the left, step off the clutch pedal as fast as you can, (all while holding the RPM's @ 6K) get ready .... stomp on the gas and slam the e-brake down, THIS IS ALL AT ONCE.
once again, You could use duck tape on the e-brake button, because the lever is spring loaded, so it would snap back into position. You would just let go of the e-brake and it wouldn't lock up on the way down, because the button is taped down.
Motorcycle Drag racers call engaging and disengaging the clutch with a little throttle the "FRICTION ZONE", this is where the clutch starts to grab with out letting it completely out and rolling in a little bit of throttle at the same time.
Has anyone here, ever launched a bike at 5500-7500 RPMS? I have, by using the same principals listed above and controling the front tire from coming of the ground by using the rear brake.
You want to create a little friction on the clutch while holding the RPMS up and holding the car back with the e-brake.
maybe this explanation will help????
Push the button in on the emergency brake lever, lift and hold in an upward postion, rev to 6K, engage the clutch or lift up, while holding the e-brake upward, so that the car wouldN'T start to move. Now you are pre-loading or adding tension to the entire driveline. The e-brake is holding you back, as soon as you hit the "FRICTION ZONE" (read below for explanation)
DO ALL AT THE SAME TIME:
Disengage the clutch or push the clutch down, start to engage the clutch or lift your foot up(slightly), get ready to move your foot to the left, step off the clutch pedal as fast as you can, (all while holding the RPM's @ 6K) get ready .... stomp on the gas and slam the e-brake down, THIS IS ALL AT ONCE.
once again, You could use duck tape on the e-brake button, because the lever is spring loaded, so it would snap back into position. You would just let go of the e-brake and it wouldn't lock up on the way down, because the button is taped down.
Motorcycle Drag racers call engaging and disengaging the clutch with a little throttle the "FRICTION ZONE", this is where the clutch starts to grab with out letting it completely out and rolling in a little bit of throttle at the same time.
Has anyone here, ever launched a bike at 5500-7500 RPMS? I have, by using the same principals listed above and controling the front tire from coming of the ground by using the rear brake.
You want to create a little friction on the clutch while holding the RPMS up and holding the car back with the e-brake.
maybe this explanation will help????
08-26-2003, 07:45 PM
#26
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Is it safe? Launching this car is probably not safe at all. But if you are going to do it, you may want to do it this way. If you can learn how to launch as I described, you may extend the life of the drive line parts or replace the what maybe inevitable.
08-27-2003, 07:22 AM
#29
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Thank you for all your comments. However, no one seems to answer my question. Is b) technique necessary? In other words, raising the RPM to ~7000 with clutch-out in neutral position necessary? I heard from someone that he raises RPM in neutral and puts the clutch-in, 1st Gear, and clutch-out to launch. Why one more steps? Can anyone think of a reason?
08-27-2003, 07:27 AM
#30
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Preloading goes back to the early days of automatic transmissions. When your tring to get everything you can out of a auto dodge stratus LOL you put one foot on the brake and one on the gas, when that light turns green you get the smallest chirp out of the tires (because its a stratus). Your doing the same thing except you dont have three feet so you use the ebrake and you're going to brweak those tire lose (because it's a s2000).