I want to spend maybe $300 to $500 on an audio upgrade. I'd rather avoid changing the deck, as that would get into changing the interface to the stereo controls on the left. I don't want to cut up my door panels. I have a 2002 S2000.

Lucid looks to have fairly convenient stuff. Can anyone make some recommendations between the various products listed?

Currently looking at:
Rear:
Panasonic Dual Cone 5.25" $99.25
or
Visonik Dual Neo 5.25" $99.75

Front:
Polk EX3560 6.5" $229.25

Maybe I don't understand the front options very well. What is the difference between Door Speaker Systems and Component Door Speaker Systems? What do I do with the door tweeters?

(Note: probably going to have to pay someone to install these... anyone care to estimate a fair price for that?)

 

i put euro size md quartz, in the doors and added an mdx amp. the sound is so much better i can't believe i waited a year and a half. cost me 275.

also if you want to keep the car stock looking, i found a great place to hide the amp.

pull down the right trunk wall you will see a large vacant area, and velcro the amp in this spot, once done you won't have anything showing. just great sound coming from your new system.

 

I got the Kenwood 3-ways for the doors and the rear. Sound is noticibly better than stock and it has a decent amount of bass without changing the stock deck (I have an 02 deck that I bought from F22skip).

Was around 300 for everything..... Talk to Lucid, he's a great guy and will offer you good advice!

 

Get MB Quart reference series for the doors they will drop in will lil effort and you will have a much better sound. They will run you around 180.00

 

drop me a line if you need any advise. most people install their own rear systems from me, many the 1st audio upgrade they've done, very easy.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2KXTC
[B]I got the Kenwood 3-ways for the doors and the rear.

 

I have the Polk 3560 with an Alpine amp. I am not really satisfied with the Polk and I am changing them out for the Alpine SPR176A.
They are supposedly better with the amp in helping to minimize distortion especially with the top down.

 

Outo,
I basically started with the same premise as you are. Here's the summary of what I got from Lucid and how it sounds:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...&threadid=88354

I'm very happy with it. It is NOT a ground-pounder and base is still lacking with the top down and RPMs > 6K. However, I can hear all the music without turning the stock unit up more than 6/10s of max volume. (1-2 bars past halfway on the lcd display of the clock).

To answer your other question about components:
Right now all the range of music from low base to high trebles are being sent to both speakers in each door (both the tweeters and the 6.5" door speakers). A component system first runs the wires (and therefore the full range of music) into a crossbar switch which sends the high-end sounds to only the tweeter and the "below that range" to the 6.5" speakers. IE, each type of speaker is getting the appropriate range of sound that they specialize in producing. These types of systems are inherently better sounding... though many component systems require an amp to work decently. Lucid recommends the Polk 3650 as the component system for people that aren't planning on putting in an amp as it is "efficient" and can do it's job with less power. (If you add an amp later on, these will perform better, though many auto-audiophiles will tell you there is better if you're going to add an amp anyway, I'm sure.)

Now, you must also balance this "feature" against the fact that you will be sending the same amount of power to the two rear speakers which are not components. However, I picked the Kenwood 3-way, hoping that it handles seperation within it's own design and I'm happy with the sound. The high crisp cymbals and such are clearly better coming from the tweeters, so I push the fade more toward the front than the rear and it seems to balance for my taste.

The rear installs are a no-brainer. Tweeter wanted $110 for the complete install, but I wanted to do it myself anyway. I just wanted to know how much I was saving for when it got frustrating... and it never did. :-)

 

I am just going to let you know that you dont have to lose the controls to the left even if you put an aftermarket headunit in...they make some kind of kit that cost I think around 80-100 that will allow you to keep the controls on the left. If you really want me to find out what exactly it is and some type of manufactuers number I can.