I installed a remote starter
I just finished installing a remote starter in my 2001 S2K.
It was quite an experience finding the right starter components
and then all the right wires - many hours under the dash with the
service manual.
I could probably write a very long article on the process,
but let me just touch on the major points.
The starter came from http://www.12voltshop.com and is the
model CS124. It works for manual transmission cars by having
you press a button on the remote, which keeps the car running,
and then exiting the car and pressing the same button to turn off
the car. This insures that the car is not in gear when you remote
start it later.
You will also need a immobilizer bypass kit from the same
company. This kit "fools" the car into thinking that your
coded key is in the ignition when the remote starter is
activated. At first I ordered their keyless version HPKH3
which said it worked with the 2001 S2K on their web site.
In fact, I had been waiting to buy the remote starter until
they had made a bypass kit for the S2K. After a week of
calls to their tech support guy, they finally admitted that the
web information was wrong and it would not work with the
S2K. They do have a universal bypass kit which uses a key
placed inside it to transmit the code to the cylinder by way of
a wire loop you place over the cylinder. That system worked
for me. I had an extra valet key made at the Honda dealer
and then grinded the key so it was unusable, just in case
someone found the key inside the bypass box under the dash.
Last point is that you will need three relays to use the remote's
door lock/unlock and trunk unlock features. Fortunately most
of the wires you need for these features come into the keyless
entry controller under the dash. You will have to cut the door lock
wires, so the factory key fob does not work anymore.
Email me with any other questions and I will try to help you.
It was quite an experience finding the right starter components
and then all the right wires - many hours under the dash with the
service manual.
I could probably write a very long article on the process,
but let me just touch on the major points.
The starter came from http://www.12voltshop.com and is the
model CS124. It works for manual transmission cars by having
you press a button on the remote, which keeps the car running,
and then exiting the car and pressing the same button to turn off
the car. This insures that the car is not in gear when you remote
start it later.
You will also need a immobilizer bypass kit from the same
company. This kit "fools" the car into thinking that your
coded key is in the ignition when the remote starter is
activated. At first I ordered their keyless version HPKH3
which said it worked with the 2001 S2K on their web site.
In fact, I had been waiting to buy the remote starter until
they had made a bypass kit for the S2K. After a week of
calls to their tech support guy, they finally admitted that the
web information was wrong and it would not work with the
S2K. They do have a universal bypass kit which uses a key
placed inside it to transmit the code to the cylinder by way of
a wire loop you place over the cylinder. That system worked
for me. I had an extra valet key made at the Honda dealer
and then grinded the key so it was unusable, just in case
someone found the key inside the bypass box under the dash.
Last point is that you will need three relays to use the remote's
door lock/unlock and trunk unlock features. Fortunately most
of the wires you need for these features come into the keyless
entry controller under the dash. You will have to cut the door lock
wires, so the factory key fob does not work anymore.
Email me with any other questions and I will try to help you.
Yeah, no kidding. I had a friend that put a remote starter in his benz. He left it in gear and a friend of his hit the button by accident. His car just kept lurching forward and hiting the parked car in front, over and over again.
Originally posted by bayarea408
make sure you dont start the car in gear.
make sure you dont start the car in gear.
Originally posted by stubrown
<snip> You will have to cut the door lock
wires, so the factory key fob does not work anymore.
Email me with any other questions and I will try to help you.
<snip> You will have to cut the door lock
wires, so the factory key fob does not work anymore.
Email me with any other questions and I will try to help you.
As for those types of remote starts........they are not the best as far as quality goes and make sure you don't have your top down/windows down when you leave your car set to R/S. Why you ask.......imagine that somebody comes by puts your car in gear.
EVER SEE A CAR DRIVE ITSELF? Can you imagine the law suit you would have on your hands if you ran anybody over that way?I saw one car literally rip through a garage! Another through a chain link fence and yet another buck all the way across a parking lot and through those curb stoppers.
You say OH BUT THE E-BRAKE IS UP!! Well that just isn't gonna stop it.
Not to proclaim gloom and doom but be informed!
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This starter was made to be used with manual as well as auto trans. In order
to use the starter later, you have to follow a procedure before you exit the
car. With the engine on, you press and hold the start button on the fob.
Then turn off the key and remove it. The engine continues to run. You
exit the car and press the start button again, which turns off the engine
and locks the doors. You have to hook wires up to the hand brake and
door switch when you install the starter. If you get into the car, the remote
start is disabled. All this makes sure that the car is ready to start again
when you leave it. No chance of being in gear.
The only wires I had to cut were for the door locks because they
are wired into the keyless module and when the starter unlocks
and locks, it blew the keyless fuse because the keyless unit has
it's own polarity which is incompatable. I don't need the keyless
unit anyway since the remote starter has all of the same functionality -
doors and trunk. I suppose I could have used diodes to isolate
the two circuits, but it was more effort than needed. As it was, I needed
to add two relays to the lock/unlock circuit because the door solenoids
needed more current than the starter could put out on that circuit.
I use the starter in the winter only, when my car is parked outside
at work. I've installed one in the last three cars I've owned.
to use the starter later, you have to follow a procedure before you exit the
car. With the engine on, you press and hold the start button on the fob.
Then turn off the key and remove it. The engine continues to run. You
exit the car and press the start button again, which turns off the engine
and locks the doors. You have to hook wires up to the hand brake and
door switch when you install the starter. If you get into the car, the remote
start is disabled. All this makes sure that the car is ready to start again
when you leave it. No chance of being in gear.
The only wires I had to cut were for the door locks because they
are wired into the keyless module and when the starter unlocks
and locks, it blew the keyless fuse because the keyless unit has
it's own polarity which is incompatable. I don't need the keyless
unit anyway since the remote starter has all of the same functionality -
doors and trunk. I suppose I could have used diodes to isolate
the two circuits, but it was more effort than needed. As it was, I needed
to add two relays to the lock/unlock circuit because the door solenoids
needed more current than the starter could put out on that circuit.
I use the starter in the winter only, when my car is parked outside
at work. I've installed one in the last three cars I've owned.
interesting, very interesting.
I was also thinking of critiquing you about remote starters, but it seems the measures to remote start the car are not just a button. sounds good especially in the cold weather.
I was also thinking of critiquing you about remote starters, but it seems the measures to remote start the car are not just a button. sounds good especially in the cold weather.
Good posting, stubrown... Having put a remote start on my GS-R, I know what a pain in the a$$ it is. Remote starts installations differ by manufacturer, as I piggybacked a DEI remote start on my Clifford IQ (I didn't have to butcher that many wires in the process, though you need a blueprint schematic to figure out the wires leading from seat to seat to dashboard).
Pinky's observation is key... I learned my lesson once when I started my car, only to see it back up into my Accord, that was to be picked up by the buyer that very afternoon. This can be a very dangerous situation... I ended up removing my console and installing magnets, that when aligned by having the gearbox in neutral, allowed the car to start. That way, if it is in any gear that prevents the magnets from lining up, it won't let the car start...
I'm skipping any remote start on the S2K... now that she's in a garage...
Pinky's observation is key... I learned my lesson once when I started my car, only to see it back up into my Accord, that was to be picked up by the buyer that very afternoon. This can be a very dangerous situation... I ended up removing my console and installing magnets, that when aligned by having the gearbox in neutral, allowed the car to start. That way, if it is in any gear that prevents the magnets from lining up, it won't let the car start...
I'm skipping any remote start on the S2K... now that she's in a garage...
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