Life expectancy of the F20C?
#22
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I know for sure that the engine will go at least 75K miles, and that's with very hard vtecing. My friend that works at Honda corporate had the S2K on the test track there. The engine had 75K miles of hard riving on it and it was still going strong. I'm sure the engine will last past 100K.
#23
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Originally posted by johev
Does synthetic really make that much of a difference?
Does synthetic really make that much of a difference?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by johev
#24
Some have stated that the VTEC kick is less noticable with synthetic. I think that synthetic, through reduced friction, may allow a very slight power increase under 6,000 rpm that makes the transition into VTEC less abrupt. Just a guess.
The VTEC rocker pins are either engaged or not, synthetic shouldn't make any difference.
The VTEC rocker pins are either engaged or not, synthetic shouldn't make any difference.
#25
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by MattsS2K
Excellent post Matt!
I recently had the pleasure of taking apart an F20C, and here is a picture that shows that "main bearing carrier" you are talking about.
My ratchet is on one of the 14mm bolts (along with a whole bunch of other little bolts along the outside) on the top that tightly holds this piece to the rest of the block (those 10 black bolts that my ratchet is on are very VERY tight, every other bolt in the engine broke lose real easy). The crank is literally sandwiched between these two pieces. And it looks to be held together quite well.
I'm sorry, but I don't have a picture to show you what it looks like after you take that piece off. It started raining (imagine that -- rain in Houston ), and we had to put the camera up.
To add to your post "forged steel and heat treated connecting rods and crankshaft" I can also tell you that the crank shaft looks to be perfectly balanced, and it is definitely built to last. I haven't weighed it yet (I should do that to prove to you all how heavy it is), but our crank is very heavy... built to last!
Another great innovation is the aluminum ladder-type main bearing carrier. Most car engines just use simple bearing caps. The bearing support of the F20C looks very tough, and I understand that it also increases engine rigidity signifigantly. It contains the main bearings and oil passages for their lubrication. It's like having a two piece block with the crank mounted rigidly in the middle. Really impressive stuff. It gives me a lot of confidence in the botton end...
I recently had the pleasure of taking apart an F20C, and here is a picture that shows that "main bearing carrier" you are talking about.
My ratchet is on one of the 14mm bolts (along with a whole bunch of other little bolts along the outside) on the top that tightly holds this piece to the rest of the block (those 10 black bolts that my ratchet is on are very VERY tight, every other bolt in the engine broke lose real easy). The crank is literally sandwiched between these two pieces. And it looks to be held together quite well.
I'm sorry, but I don't have a picture to show you what it looks like after you take that piece off. It started raining (imagine that -- rain in Houston ), and we had to put the camera up.
To add to your post "forged steel and heat treated connecting rods and crankshaft" I can also tell you that the crank shaft looks to be perfectly balanced, and it is definitely built to last. I haven't weighed it yet (I should do that to prove to you all how heavy it is), but our crank is very heavy... built to last!
#27
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Originally posted by Phantom
John,
Thanks for the picture bud...
How come you were taking apart the engine anyway (sounds like fun)?
John,
Thanks for the picture bud...
How come you were taking apart the engine anyway (sounds like fun)?
Here is another picture that shows what Matt was talking about.
The engine is laying on its side with the top of the engine facing the ground (the engine is upside down) so if you look at the top, (the bottom of the engine) you can see where these two pieces are sealed together. (BTW that is the oil pan in the background, that is not what we are talking about... hehe just incase some of you didn't know that)
(And that is me... siting there trying to figure out how to get the oil pump off to be able to get to the #1 and #2 pistons.)
#28
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Originally posted by Barry WY Silver/Black '01
It would be nice to know what Honda's durability testing was.
It would be nice to know what Honda's durability testing was.
Anyway, during Q&A, someone in the room asked about durability, and he stated that the durability schedule was slightly less rigorous than for a standard passenger car engine, but still still a very tough test cycle. When proded some more, he said he could not elaborate. Take that for what it's worth.
Considering the astronomical piston speeds on this engine, if the lubrication for the rod big ends & crank mains are good (which it should be with the 9 or so grades of bearing Honda uses during assembly to dial in oil clearance), I'd expect the primary wear out mode to be ring & bore wear. In otherwords, the motor will probably burn a lot of oil when it wears out. ...not a whole lot of thought put into this, but its a decent seat of the pants assesment.
#29
I was just looking through the threads and saw this one figured it would be fun to bring it back to the top at least this is from 2001 so 10 years later everyone can see just what we expected out of these cars and what has actually came from them...I know I have seen plenty of s2000s with way over 100k on them