mobile one synthetic oil
Originally Posted by NNY S2k,Feb 25 2005, 05:29 AM
The past couple yrs. I've changed mine 1st thing in the spring...but i've only been driving 3k miles / yr.
Store with clean oil.
If we store our cars at the very first 3,000 miles, should we change the oil before storage or after storage (and we have reached the year mark while in storage). And if after storage, how long after should we change it. I'd like to get at least 5,000 out of the factory shipped oil, to wear the engine properly, but on the other hand I don't want to be using oil that has decomposed cause of its shelf life and/or has eaten away at the engine because of contaminants. Does the "new car" oil have any preservatives that will prevent this deterioration of the engine if left to sit for a while?
I've been searching for this answer around here, but couldn't find the answer to all of my criteria.
Tony
I've been searching for this answer around here, but couldn't find the answer to all of my criteria.
Tony
Originally Posted by ruexp67,Feb 25 2005, 12:42 PM
Your better off changing your oil BEFORE you put it into storage. Contaminates and acids build up in the oil through usage. If you leave it in there over the winter months those contaminates will eat away at your engine, and the particles will adhere to everything they can.
Store with clean oil.
Store with clean oil.
Originally Posted by spidale5,Feb 25 2005, 01:15 PM
If we store our cars at the very first 3,000 miles, should we change the oil before storage or after storage (and we have reached the year mark while in storage). And if after storage, how long after should we change it. I'd like to get at least 5,000 out of the factory shipped oil, to wear the engine properly, but on the other hand I don't want to be using oil that has decomposed cause of its shelf life and/or has eaten away at the engine because of contaminants. Does the "new car" oil have any preservatives that will prevent this deterioration of the engine if left to sit for a while?
I've been searching for this answer around here, but couldn't find the answer to all of my criteria.
Tony
I've been searching for this answer around here, but couldn't find the answer to all of my criteria.
Tony

Barring that, I would still change the oil before storage. The "secret" ingrediant in the Honda break-in oil has been shown to be Moly(sdasdfsdfsdf) something. We'll just call it moly. If you use a conventional oil with a high moly content or add moly as an additive after you change the oil you will effectively replace the Honda Break-in oil with newer, fresher version of the same thing. Castrol GTX has about the higest Moly content of any off-the-shelf oil.
Also note. Because of the harder surface of the ceramic cylindar liners the engine is known to burn oil for the first 10,000mi or so. Synthetic fluid (like Mobil 1) is too thin to aid in the break-in process and will likely burn MORE off because of blow-by. So it is reccomended NOT to switch to synthetic until you stop burning oil (around 10,000mi or so.)
Originally Posted by icecreamballer,Feb 25 2005, 02:20 AM
hey guys i was just wondering, i just started putting in mobile one on my S. and im planning on doing that everytime from now on. how often do i have to do the oil change wen using mobile one? the mechanic told me every 5000 miles with the mobile one.
a TON of information about oil change intervals, and a breakdown of the popular oils and how well they test, etc.
note the part here about the durability of mobil 1 and see how it rates to regular oils regarding it's TBN (which helps determine how long an oil lasts before you'd have to change it) also note that mobil drive clean is the same as the honda brand oil.
Test 5: Total Base Number (TBN)
TBN displays the lubricant's reserve alkalinity, and is, of course, the opposite of TAN (total acid number). A high TBN will help resist the formation of acids from sulfur and other sources. It is also a good indicator of reserve resistance to oxidation. The higher the number, the superior ability to suspend contaminants and the greater the ability to provide long-drain intervals
Results for this test (all units in mg KOH/g):
Amsoil: 12.34
Vavoline SynPower: 11.38
Castrol Syntec: 10.39
Pennzoil Synthetic: 9.73
Mobil1: 8.57
Valvoline: 7.88
Quaker State Synthetic: 7.82
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 7.74
Mobil Drive Clean: 7.71
Quaker State Peak Performance: 7.55
Pennzoil Purebase: 7.40
RR's comments: I was very impressed with all the oils, as the mineral oils have significantly improved, consistent with previous comments about how mineral oils are closing in, and that the GF-3 spec has resulted in very good performing products. Mobil1's showing is the best i have seen for that product, which usually was in the 5-6 range previously. It certainly also supports my previous comments that the 3K oil change "necessity" is out of place with current technology. Like an enema for a dead man, while it may not help to do a 3K change, it wouldn't hurt I guess. smile.gif
TBN displays the lubricant's reserve alkalinity, and is, of course, the opposite of TAN (total acid number). A high TBN will help resist the formation of acids from sulfur and other sources. It is also a good indicator of reserve resistance to oxidation. The higher the number, the superior ability to suspend contaminants and the greater the ability to provide long-drain intervals
Results for this test (all units in mg KOH/g):
Amsoil: 12.34
Vavoline SynPower: 11.38
Castrol Syntec: 10.39
Pennzoil Synthetic: 9.73
Mobil1: 8.57
Valvoline: 7.88
Quaker State Synthetic: 7.82
Castrol GTX Drive Hard: 7.74
Mobil Drive Clean: 7.71
Quaker State Peak Performance: 7.55
Pennzoil Purebase: 7.40
RR's comments: I was very impressed with all the oils, as the mineral oils have significantly improved, consistent with previous comments about how mineral oils are closing in, and that the GF-3 spec has resulted in very good performing products. Mobil1's showing is the best i have seen for that product, which usually was in the 5-6 range previously. It certainly also supports my previous comments that the 3K oil change "necessity" is out of place with current technology. Like an enema for a dead man, while it may not help to do a 3K change, it wouldn't hurt I guess. smile.gif
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=195574
Originally Posted by ProV1,Feb 25 2005, 09:11 AM
um, no, bmw service indicator lights are strictly by gas usage, there are no 'oil quality monitors'
This is from a BMW website:
The advanced technology of the BMW service indicator systems allows the use of microcomputers to consider the influence of engine coolant temperature, high and low engine speeds, short and long trips, and the number of engine starts, in determining the optimum maintenance interval.
MB FSS is similar to BMW Service Indicator Systems in term of monitoring these conditions. Both systems will tell the owners when to change their oils and filters, usually between 10k and 15k miles if using fully synthetic oil.
Originally Posted by ruexp67,Feb 25 2005, 01:00 PM
Castrol GTX has about the highest Moly content of any off-the-shelf oil.
Well, I'm right at 3400 miles, so I guess it'll be pretty safe to go the Castrol GTX route before I drive the thing (better than using year+ old, acidic oil). I was considering adding some molybednum, but I think I'm close enough.
Originally Posted by ProV1,Feb 25 2005, 07:32 AM
u know what's funny, before BMW and MB implemented "free maintenance" program, they swore by oil changes every 3k miles.. but after it started, the interval magically changed to 15k..
Originally Posted by skim,Mar 23 2005, 12:44 PM
That varies by model of car from any vendor. Most of the new german sedans have 10qt+ oil reservoirs resulting in extended timeframes between oil changes.
ProV1 makes a good point though. If "we're" paying for it, the recommended interval is 3k. If "they're" paying for it, it's 15k. Amazing how that works!
Drive Safe,
Steve R.







