Overheating and Idle problem
Dear s2ki fellow,
This is my first posting here.
I need your help here.
Story 1: Overheating
A few monthes ago, I hit raccoon in front and I had to replace radiator and front bumper.
Radiator was replaced with 3rd party's one but same spec as OEM.
A couple of days ago, I was in local road driving back home, I noticed it was overheating and heater did not blow hot air.
The thing is when I gas hard, it goes back to normal level.
I took it to dealer (i got 2008 s2000, so there is warranty), they said they could not reproduce overheating.
Since, I suspected coolant and thermostat, I asked them to replace it. I had to pay $250 for that.
After I picked up the car, it started to overheat again, I took it back to dealer, it went back to normal level again.
I had nothing to say.....
It seems overheating is permanent after dealer replaced coolant and thermostat.
Story 2: Idle problem
When the car starts in cold, it hesitates to idle. It pops up to 2.5k rpm and It rattles.
One time, it got CEL, which was "Crankshaft position sensor malfunction."
I deleted the code to see if it comes back on but it never comes back.
Do you have any idea what is wrong with it?
This is my first posting here.
I need your help here.
Story 1: Overheating
A few monthes ago, I hit raccoon in front and I had to replace radiator and front bumper.
Radiator was replaced with 3rd party's one but same spec as OEM.
A couple of days ago, I was in local road driving back home, I noticed it was overheating and heater did not blow hot air.
The thing is when I gas hard, it goes back to normal level.
I took it to dealer (i got 2008 s2000, so there is warranty), they said they could not reproduce overheating.
Since, I suspected coolant and thermostat, I asked them to replace it. I had to pay $250 for that.

After I picked up the car, it started to overheat again, I took it back to dealer, it went back to normal level again.
I had nothing to say.....
It seems overheating is permanent after dealer replaced coolant and thermostat.
Story 2: Idle problem
When the car starts in cold, it hesitates to idle. It pops up to 2.5k rpm and It rattles.
One time, it got CEL, which was "Crankshaft position sensor malfunction."
I deleted the code to see if it comes back on but it never comes back.
Do you have any idea what is wrong with it?
Do you have HOT heat ?
If no, you have air in the system.
Do you have HOT heat at idle ?
If no, you have air in the system.
To burp the coolant :
With a ratchet and 12mm socket, open the bleeder screw by the intake manifold.
With your other hand, squeeze & hold the top radiator hose.
Now close the bleeder screw.
Then release the radiator hose.
Then open the radiator cap.
There should have been a suction.
Top off coolant. Put back radiator cap.
Repeat process until coolant comes out of the bleeder screw when you squeeze the top radiator hose.
I still do this everyday until I get coolant out the first squeeze of the bleeder screw.
I spent 4 days trying to burp the system and this is the ONLY way to do it and it works
If no, you have air in the system.
Do you have HOT heat at idle ?
If no, you have air in the system.
To burp the coolant :
With a ratchet and 12mm socket, open the bleeder screw by the intake manifold.
With your other hand, squeeze & hold the top radiator hose.
Now close the bleeder screw.
Then release the radiator hose.
Then open the radiator cap.
There should have been a suction.
Top off coolant. Put back radiator cap.
Repeat process until coolant comes out of the bleeder screw when you squeeze the top radiator hose.
I still do this everyday until I get coolant out the first squeeze of the bleeder screw.
I spent 4 days trying to burp the system and this is the ONLY way to do it and it works
We just replaced the crank shaft positioning censor in my moms g35 because it threw a CEL. It too was having idle problems but opposite of yours. it wad dying. That censor is cheap to replace so i would change it if the CEL ever comes back.
i thinkg that BILLYhoang's method is unusual and OEM one is different.
normally you bleed with engine running.
regarding CEL and possible need for sensor replacement - if you car is on warranty just take it to the dealer.
normally you bleed with engine running.
regarding CEL and possible need for sensor replacement - if you car is on warranty just take it to the dealer.
Engine off.
I tried burping my coolant system with a special funnel tool. Didn't work.
I tried burping it with the car parked on an inclined and jacked the front end up as high as I can to get the radiator at the highest point, this technique didn't work.
Just try the way I told you in my original reply. It's pretty easy and it worked 100% for me.
Thank you Billy.
This morning s2000 got CEL again.
I took it to dealer to scan the CEL and ask for bleeding.
Code was misfiring on cylinder 2.
And dealer claimed they did bleeding properly.
Well. Apprently there is air in the system. I will try billy's method after I pick it up from dealer.
They are working on misfiring.
I hope it is not a big problem.
This morning s2000 got CEL again.
I took it to dealer to scan the CEL and ask for bleeding.
Code was misfiring on cylinder 2.
And dealer claimed they did bleeding properly.
Well. Apprently there is air in the system. I will try billy's method after I pick it up from dealer.
They are working on misfiring.
I hope it is not a big problem.
Trending Topics
Ok. Dealer called me today and said I got bad head gasket.
They said I should not shift it over 5k rpm. What? Lol
Is it normal worn out for 20k miles s2000? Weird.
Anyways, dealer will replace head gasket under warranty.
They said I should not shift it over 5k rpm. What? Lol
Is it normal worn out for 20k miles s2000? Weird.
Anyways, dealer will replace head gasket under warranty.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



