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Preventing holes in soft top - my solution

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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 06:27 PM
  #91  
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i've used top patches made of old s2000 tops with black RTV to stick the patches on. It has worked well so far after 18 months. I may try the black hole patch as well for kicks.

your mileage may vary.

darcy
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by CStevenot
So what is the overall verdict? Is this a good system for patching, or would it be better to shell out the $ for a shop to do? Hmm...
Good luck. Multiple solutions have been posted in many threads over the years but I have yet to see an "overall verdict" for any of them.
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 04:10 AM
  #93  
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Going to have to try some of these ideas.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 09:02 PM
  #94  
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Took your awesome idea one step further: All the way from under the top latches and looping around the last bar.

photo2_zps1174ae2b.jpg?t=1366260634
Look at how the rubber gets rubbed on ^
photo1_zps906efa4f.jpg?t=1366260629


I used the thinnest/most flexible cove base you can get ($2.5x per 3 foot(ish) piece at Home Depot). It works like a charm. It's flexible when cold and super flexible when it's hot outside. No one other than an avid S2 enthusiast would know it didn't come from Honda this way. I attached mine under the top latches with the screws running through the front edge. No more latch assemblies rubbing the inside of the cloth when it's down. And since it's black you don't notice it when the top's down at all. The rubber takes the brunt of contact from the top mechanism. I just replaced my top with a stay-fast cloth version and want it to last at least the next 8-10 years..
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by AP1Driver
Took your awesome idea one step further: All the way from under the top latches and looping around the last bar.


Look at how the rubber gets rubbed on ^



I used the thinnest/most flexible cove base you can get ($2.5x per 3 foot(ish) piece at Home Depot). It works like a charm. It's flexible when cold and super flexible when it's hot outside. No one other than an avid S2 enthusiast would know it didn't come from Honda this way. I attached mine under the top latches with the screws running through the front edge. No more latch assemblies rubbing the inside of the cloth when it's down. And since it's black you don't notice it when the top's down at all. The rubber takes the brunt of contact from the top mechanism. I just replaced my top with a stay-fast cloth version and want it to last at least the next 8-10 years..
What type of glue did you use to stick the clove base on?
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 05:03 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by genexrocket
Originally Posted by AP1Driver' timestamp='1366261336' post='22481754
Took your awesome idea one step further: All the way from under the top latches and looping around the last bar.


Look at how the rubber gets rubbed on ^



I used the thinnest/most flexible cove base you can get ($2.5x per 3 foot(ish) piece at Home Depot). It works like a charm. It's flexible when cold and super flexible when it's hot outside. No one other than an avid S2 enthusiast would know it didn't come from Honda this way. I attached mine under the top latches with the screws running through the front edge. No more latch assemblies rubbing the inside of the cloth when it's down. And since it's black you don't notice it when the top's down at all. The rubber takes the brunt of contact from the top mechanism. I just replaced my top with a stay-fast cloth version and want it to last at least the next 8-10 years..
What type of glue did you use to stick the clove base on?
You don't need to glue anything. I attached the rear loop together by sandwiching industrial strength superlock velcro where it meets. Make sure the loop is long enough to allow the rear bar to move fore/aft or it will instantly tear the velcro and undo the loop. Attaching it under the top latch assemblies and running it down behind the frame holds it in place fine. I've put my top down/raised it at least 30+ times and it hasn't moved a centimeter. I believe this will be a good permanent solution to the issue for people who don't already have tears. If/when the rubber gets worn through, replace it on both sides for under $10 including velcro. Sure beats shelling out 800-1k for a new top every 3-5 years...
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by AP1Driver
Originally Posted by genexrocket' timestamp='1366303078' post='22482757
[quote name='AP1Driver' timestamp='1366261336' post='22481754']
Took your awesome idea one step further: All the way from under the top latches and looping around the last bar.


Look at how the rubber gets rubbed on ^



I used the thinnest/most flexible cove base you can get ($2.5x per 3 foot(ish) piece at Home Depot). It works like a charm. It's flexible when cold and super flexible when it's hot outside. No one other than an avid S2 enthusiast would know it didn't come from Honda this way. I attached mine under the top latches with the screws running through the front edge. No more latch assemblies rubbing the inside of the cloth when it's down. And since it's black you don't notice it when the top's down at all. The rubber takes the brunt of contact from the top mechanism. I just replaced my top with a stay-fast cloth version and want it to last at least the next 8-10 years..
What type of glue did you use to stick the clove base on?
You don't need to glue anything. I attached the rear loop together by sandwiching industrial strength superlock velcro where it meets. Make sure the loop is long enough to allow the rear bar to move fore/aft or it will instantly tear the velcro and undo the loop. Attaching it under the top latch assemblies and running it down behind the frame holds it in place fine. I've put my top down/raised it at least 30+ times and it hasn't moved a centimeter. I believe this will be a good permanent solution to the issue for people who don't already have tears. If/when the rubber gets worn through, replace it on both sides for under $10 including velcro. Sure beats shelling out 800-1k for a new top every 3-5 years...
[/quote]

Ohhh,thanks for the reply! After searching a bit, I just went ahead and ordered the Black Hole Patch Kit: http://www.justasign.com/Just_a_sign...ole_Patch.html

Hopefully it's as good or a better solution to prevent future tears!
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:39 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by genexrocket
Originally Posted by AP1Driver' timestamp='1366333424' post='22483973
[quote name='genexrocket' timestamp='1366303078' post='22482757']
[quote name='AP1Driver' timestamp='1366261336' post='22481754']
Took your awesome idea one step further: All the way from under the top latches and looping around the last bar.


Look at how the rubber gets rubbed on ^



I used the thinnest/most flexible cove base you can get ($2.5x per 3 foot(ish) piece at Home Depot). It works like a charm. It's flexible when cold and super flexible when it's hot outside. No one other than an avid S2 enthusiast would know it didn't come from Honda this way. I attached mine under the top latches with the screws running through the front edge. No more latch assemblies rubbing the inside of the cloth when it's down. And since it's black you don't notice it when the top's down at all. The rubber takes the brunt of contact from the top mechanism. I just replaced my top with a stay-fast cloth version and want it to last at least the next 8-10 years..
What type of glue did you use to stick the clove base on?
You don't need to glue anything. I attached the rear loop together by sandwiching industrial strength superlock velcro where it meets. Make sure the loop is long enough to allow the rear bar to move fore/aft or it will instantly tear the velcro and undo the loop. Attaching it under the top latch assemblies and running it down behind the frame holds it in place fine. I've put my top down/raised it at least 30+ times and it hasn't moved a centimeter. I believe this will be a good permanent solution to the issue for people who don't already have tears. If/when the rubber gets worn through, replace it on both sides for under $10 including velcro. Sure beats shelling out 800-1k for a new top every 3-5 years...
[/quote]

Ohhh,thanks for the reply! After searching a bit, I just went ahead and ordered the Black Hole Patch Kit: http://www.justasign.com/Just_a_sign...ole_Patch.html

Hopefully it's as good or a better solution to prevent future tears!

[/quote]
Better patch the whole side (i.e. the whole area I have covered). The tears may not appear everywhere on that section, but the top frame assy does rub all along that area going up and down. And I guarantee that kit costs more and won't hold up as long. Willing to bet money on it
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 02:11 AM
  #99  
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Has anyone tried gorilla tape to prevent the holes and rips.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 09:27 AM
  #100  
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I got my black hole patch yesterday. I like the material it made out of . And how it match the color of the top. I put it on the inside of my top and you almost cannot tell there is a patch there unless you really look for it.
My only concern is I hope it will stay on the top and not unglued from the Floride heat during the summer months.
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