Problem: Slipping clutch @ 10K miles
My car (MY2004, pratically an AP2) has approximately 10,000 miles, and my clutch slips when I pound through the gears or when I'm flooring on an upward-incline in 3rd gear (or above). In fact, it slips so badly that I can't rev above 8000rpm in 3rd gear on a 35 degree slope. However, in city driving, it's fine.
I bought the car used with 6000 miles on the odo, and never do burn out or dump the clutch from a stop. The car had a 2004 CDV up until 8000 miles, at which I switched over to a 2003 clutch slave cylinder. The car is otherwise stock in the power department.
Given that the car has such low mileage, the previous owner would need to abuse the clutch pretty badly to wear out the clutch so quickly. Other parts of the car don't suggest the car was ever abused. I certainly don't ride my clutch, and am pretty good at getting my car going barely without lugging it at low revs. I've racked up higher mileage on my previous S, and my clutch was still the bomb on the day I sold it.
With all that said, can you think of any reason how not installing the slave cylinder properly could make the clutch slip? The clutch pedal does pop back up pretty quickly, so doesn't look like the clutch fluid has air bubbles or anything.
I just want to think of all possibilities and make sure that it really is the clutch, before shelling out 3K for the clutch and install. I know AP2 clutch's pressure plates are weaker than AP1s, but don't think they would cause the friction plate to give up THAT quickly
Thanks
I bought the car used with 6000 miles on the odo, and never do burn out or dump the clutch from a stop. The car had a 2004 CDV up until 8000 miles, at which I switched over to a 2003 clutch slave cylinder. The car is otherwise stock in the power department.
Given that the car has such low mileage, the previous owner would need to abuse the clutch pretty badly to wear out the clutch so quickly. Other parts of the car don't suggest the car was ever abused. I certainly don't ride my clutch, and am pretty good at getting my car going barely without lugging it at low revs. I've racked up higher mileage on my previous S, and my clutch was still the bomb on the day I sold it.
With all that said, can you think of any reason how not installing the slave cylinder properly could make the clutch slip? The clutch pedal does pop back up pretty quickly, so doesn't look like the clutch fluid has air bubbles or anything.
I just want to think of all possibilities and make sure that it really is the clutch, before shelling out 3K for the clutch and install. I know AP2 clutch's pressure plates are weaker than AP1s, but don't think they would cause the friction plate to give up THAT quickly
Thanks
$3000 for a clutch and install? No way does it cost that much. An OEM clutch + install shouldn't run you more than $1000. I found a very reputable Honda shop locally that charges about $85/hr, which is a lot less than the dealership.
Anyways, I would assume the fluid has been changed and yadda yadda yadda?
Anyways, I would assume the fluid has been changed and yadda yadda yadda?
Originally Posted by dparm' date='Jan 14 2009, 10:06 AM
$3000 for a clutch and install? No way does it cost that much. An OEM clutch + install shouldn't run you more than $1000. I found a very reputable Honda shop locally that charges about $85/hr, which is a lot less than the dealership.
Anyways, I would assume the fluid has been changed and yadda yadda yadda?
Anyways, I would assume the fluid has been changed and yadda yadda yadda?
Whatever it is ... My mechanic flushed the fluid when he changed the slave cylinder for me.
I'm thinking maybe the previous owner boosted the car? But then the car's from Japan, and don't think boosting was the "thing" there for S2Ks
Originally Posted by thebig33tuna' date='Jan 14 2009, 08:22 AM
checked your clutch fluid? 

Never use an already-open bottle, obviously.
Majestic Honda's pricing on clutch parts:
Flywheel: $235 (don't need to replace this though)
Friction disk: $101
Pressure plate: $205
Pilot bearing: $13
So yeah, whoever quoted you that much was ripping you off. Dealer list of the above parts is about 40% higher, FYI ($335, $144, $293, $18, respectively).
Flywheel: $235 (don't need to replace this though)
Friction disk: $101
Pressure plate: $205
Pilot bearing: $13
So yeah, whoever quoted you that much was ripping you off. Dealer list of the above parts is about 40% higher, FYI ($335, $144, $293, $18, respectively).
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The clutch slips because of the pressure plate. If you don't have the CDV, your pp is engaging faster, but it still is too weak to grip the clutch disc. Net result, accelerated wear on the clutch plate and slipping gets worse. My take anyway.
You need a firmer PP, and now a new clutch. Price an ACT pp, OEM clutch disc, OEM bearing.
You need a firmer PP, and now a new clutch. Price an ACT pp, OEM clutch disc, OEM bearing.
Originally Posted by Saki GT' date='Jan 14 2009, 12:42 PM
The clutch slips because of the pressure plate. If you don't have the CDV, your pp is engaging faster, but it still is too weak to grip the clutch disc. Net result, accelerated wear on the clutch plate and slipping gets worse. My take anyway.
You need a firmer PP, and now a new clutch. Price an ACT pp, OEM clutch disc, OEM bearing.
You need a firmer PP, and now a new clutch. Price an ACT pp, OEM clutch disc, OEM bearing.
I guess the flywheel should still be okay eh? Cuz that's 350 right there
In what case would I need to change the flywheel too?








