Questions on driving the S2000
Don't EVER vtec in the rain, not even if you're just going in a straight line.
Don't stab the gas in 1st gear when doing a u-turn (especially in wet).
Don't drive on bald tires, don't get cheap tires.
Don't stab the gas in 1st gear when doing a u-turn (especially in wet).
Don't drive on bald tires, don't get cheap tires.
Yea, I think I'll test out the rain thing in a parking lot, though sadly there hasn't been rain in the longest time haha, I'm in So Cal. The thing I'm worried about is turning and shifting at low speeds.
Originally Posted by jeggy,Aug 26 2009, 05:42 PM
nope. it's all good so long as you row through the gears. clutch in or out it doesn't matter.
Doing what he described is not the same as engaging the clutch between every shift.
The engine will decrease to idle and he will be pointlessly doing gear shifts.
Correct me if I am wrong but the syncromesh aides matching gearbox speed to engine speed and will not be used unless you actually let the clutch engage.
If you wanna go from 4th into 2nd this is how I do it:
You're in 4th gear
Clutch in
Shift into 3rd
Shift into 2nd
Blip the throttle so that engine RPMs are close to what they should be for that speed in 2nd gear
Clutch out
Correct me if I'm wrong.
You're in 4th gear
Clutch in
Shift into 3rd
Shift into 2nd
Blip the throttle so that engine RPMs are close to what they should be for that speed in 2nd gear
Clutch out
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Do not skimp on tires. Sounds like you bought the car with at least some tread on whatever tire the previous owner threw on it. That's better than bald walmart specials. But, you seriously degrade the potential of the car when you try and save a few bucks on tires or stretch a set of tires to the point they can't evacuate water from under the tread at real world speeds. My advice is to keep an OEM equivalent tire on the car. RE050, RE011, F1-GS/D3, etc.
Originally Posted by lols2000,Aug 26 2009, 06:41 PM
If you wanna go from 4th into 2nd this is how I do it:
You're in 4th gear
Clutch in
Shift into 3rd
Shift into 2nd
Blip the throttle so that engine RPMs are close to what they should be for that speed in 2nd gear
Clutch out
Correct me if I'm wrong.
You're in 4th gear
Clutch in
Shift into 3rd
Shift into 2nd
Blip the throttle so that engine RPMs are close to what they should be for that speed in 2nd gear
Clutch out
Correct me if I'm wrong.
ex:
6th clutch to 2nd
5th clutch to 2nd
so i shouldnt be doing that? i only had my car for like 2 weeks
Originally Posted by si2ik,Aug 26 2009, 07:01 PM
oh you need to downshift in order? usually when im turning i just downshift to 2nd.
ex:
6th clutch to 2nd
5th clutch to 2nd
so i shouldnt be doing that? i only had my car for like 2 weeks
ex:
6th clutch to 2nd
5th clutch to 2nd
so i shouldnt be doing that? i only had my car for like 2 weeks
here's how i understand it (correct me if i'm wrong)
synchros match transmission input (call it TI) & output (TO) shaft speeds
TO is always fixed to wheel speed
TI is fixed to engine speed when clutch is engaged
TO speed is directly proportional to TI speed when in gear (ratio depends on which gear you're in)
on an up-shift for example, when you disengage the clutch and shift up, the TO speed stays constant (relatively constant as every force comes with an opposing force, blah blah blah), and the synchro reduces TI speed such that the ratio of TI:TO speeds is equal to the gear ratio AFTER the shift.
on a down-shift, TI speed has to increase, and that's why you blip the engine, such that when you engage the clutch, the engine speed will match the now higher TI speed. otherwise, you get that "jerk" as the engine tries to quickly accelerate up to TI speed.
rowing through the gears, whether clutch in or out, distributes the amount of work done by the synchros. for example, if you're changing from 5 to 2 without rowing through the gears, you're placing all the work on your 2nd gear synchro.
aight, sorry for the long post! point is...row through the gears and rev match!
synchros match transmission input (call it TI) & output (TO) shaft speeds
TO is always fixed to wheel speed
TI is fixed to engine speed when clutch is engaged
TO speed is directly proportional to TI speed when in gear (ratio depends on which gear you're in)
on an up-shift for example, when you disengage the clutch and shift up, the TO speed stays constant (relatively constant as every force comes with an opposing force, blah blah blah), and the synchro reduces TI speed such that the ratio of TI:TO speeds is equal to the gear ratio AFTER the shift.
on a down-shift, TI speed has to increase, and that's why you blip the engine, such that when you engage the clutch, the engine speed will match the now higher TI speed. otherwise, you get that "jerk" as the engine tries to quickly accelerate up to TI speed.
rowing through the gears, whether clutch in or out, distributes the amount of work done by the synchros. for example, if you're changing from 5 to 2 without rowing through the gears, you're placing all the work on your 2nd gear synchro.
aight, sorry for the long post! point is...row through the gears and rev match!
so even stopping at a light, i should down shift in order to 1st? or lets say im in 6th, can i just put it from 6th to neutral and roll to the light then engage back in 1st when the light is green?




