Redline Synthetic Oil?
Originally posted by Salim2000
Anyone using it? Is it good or bad for the StooK? How about AMS Oil? TIA.
Anyone using it? Is it good or bad for the StooK? How about AMS Oil? TIA.
Originally posted by Salim2000
Anyone using it? Is it good or bad for the StooK? How about AMS Oil? TIA.
Anyone using it? Is it good or bad for the StooK? How about AMS Oil? TIA.
Redline and Mobil One products are both very good, but if you're looking for something better and don't mind paying for it, check out Royal Purple lubicants.
http://www.synerlec.com/technical.html
I believe Royal Purple is the best of the best..but it is pricey.
http://www.synerlec.com/technical.html
I believe Royal Purple is the best of the best..but it is pricey.
I've been using Redline for since I hit the 14k mile mark and love it. I use the 5W30 version and buy it by the case for $6.70 each.
---Personal Opinion---
My perception is that I immediately notice a smoother revving engine. I also think it felt better after the second oil change @ 18k. I used it on my previous car, 1995 Talon TSI-AWD, and the effect it had on the turbo spool-up was very noticeable. Maybe that's why Comptech recommended it for the S/C cars.
For me, I look at RedLine as a super-synthetic because I noticed an improvement similar to the dyno-oil to synthetic comparison. It's another step up from 'regular-synthetics'.
----------------------
However, I was told today by my local import car tuner shop, Carboy, that a Royal Purple rep came in and performed a test comparison against Redline and Mobil 1 and a few other brands.
They performed this 'ball-bearing' test where a ball bearing is pushed against a spinning metal disk. It's like pushing your finger(ball-bearing) against a spinning bicycle tire(metal disk). I may have seen a infomercial as well.
The only oil that prevented the ball-bearing from being damaged was Royal Purple. The other oils caused enough friction to damage the ball bearing. They allowed the Carboy guy to test and make sure that the same amount of pressure was applied to each oil test. The results were still in favor of Royal Purple.
Needless to say, I didn't see this event so I can only take their word. They sell both Redline and Royal Purple at their store.
After I get through my second case, I'll be switching to Royal Purple to see how it compares to RedLine.
---Personal Opinion---
My perception is that I immediately notice a smoother revving engine. I also think it felt better after the second oil change @ 18k. I used it on my previous car, 1995 Talon TSI-AWD, and the effect it had on the turbo spool-up was very noticeable. Maybe that's why Comptech recommended it for the S/C cars.
For me, I look at RedLine as a super-synthetic because I noticed an improvement similar to the dyno-oil to synthetic comparison. It's another step up from 'regular-synthetics'.
----------------------
However, I was told today by my local import car tuner shop, Carboy, that a Royal Purple rep came in and performed a test comparison against Redline and Mobil 1 and a few other brands.
They performed this 'ball-bearing' test where a ball bearing is pushed against a spinning metal disk. It's like pushing your finger(ball-bearing) against a spinning bicycle tire(metal disk). I may have seen a infomercial as well.
The only oil that prevented the ball-bearing from being damaged was Royal Purple. The other oils caused enough friction to damage the ball bearing. They allowed the Carboy guy to test and make sure that the same amount of pressure was applied to each oil test. The results were still in favor of Royal Purple.
Needless to say, I didn't see this event so I can only take their word. They sell both Redline and Royal Purple at their store.
After I get through my second case, I'll be switching to Royal Purple to see how it compares to RedLine.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by joe_s2k
[B]
However, I was told today by my local import car tuner shop, Carboy, that a Royal Purple rep came in and performed a test comparison against Redline and Mobil 1 and a few other brands.
They performed this 'ball-bearing' test where a ball bearing is pushed against a spinning metal disk. It's like pushing your finger(ball-bearing) against a spinning bicycle tire(metal disk).
[B]
However, I was told today by my local import car tuner shop, Carboy, that a Royal Purple rep came in and performed a test comparison against Redline and Mobil 1 and a few other brands.
They performed this 'ball-bearing' test where a ball bearing is pushed against a spinning metal disk. It's like pushing your finger(ball-bearing) against a spinning bicycle tire(metal disk).
Originally posted by mingster
I think I've seen this type of tests on infomercials, with Prolong or something like that (lubricants). I've always wondered how much that test has to do in relation to the cars
I think I've seen this type of tests on infomercials, with Prolong or something like that (lubricants). I've always wondered how much that test has to do in relation to the cars
Lance
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>>Why can't they just take a few engines and put them on an engine bench put hundreds and hundreds of hours on them and compare the oil analysis and component specs. To me this is a true test. Most likely they don't do this because you will find out that there isn't much difference between the oils. <<
David Vizard has done just that on a few street and racing motors. Mostly SB Chevies and old British motors. He found good gains with Mobil 1 (over Dino) and further slight gains with Redline. Mostly he uses M1 unless he is racing or has a very pricey motor. On the street the added life/HP does not always make rational sense given the higher per quart cost of redline. And if redline could cut 1/4 mile times by a few hundredths of a second, that is tiny compared to the effect of driver skill and practice. For example it appears that first time S2k drag racers leave 1/2 to 1 second on the table. And after all, good old M1 protected a BMW 3 series for over 1 million miles, and the motor was still fine. One interesting Vizard test found about 1+ % HP gains and elimination of upper cylinder wear ridges by using a synthetic upper cylinder lubricant added to the fuel. That test was on iron bore engines and essentially eliminated bore wear compared to the identical comparison engine. They ran idnetical motors on the dyno for around 75K miles equiv. Of course the S2K does not use iron bores, it has fiber reinforced metal bores - carbon fiber and aluminum oxide along with (I think) integral aluminum liners.
Also, on the break-in thing, remember that IF synthetic does lengthen break-in, that is not necessarily bad. For example if you wind up with a BETTER end result, then that can be good too. In some of Vizard's tests synths lengthened break-in about an extra month or so, but he wound up with lower friction, smoother bore/ring characteristics. Which would enhance power and longevity.
Stan
[Edited by E30M3 on 04-21-2001 at 07:03 AM]
David Vizard has done just that on a few street and racing motors. Mostly SB Chevies and old British motors. He found good gains with Mobil 1 (over Dino) and further slight gains with Redline. Mostly he uses M1 unless he is racing or has a very pricey motor. On the street the added life/HP does not always make rational sense given the higher per quart cost of redline. And if redline could cut 1/4 mile times by a few hundredths of a second, that is tiny compared to the effect of driver skill and practice. For example it appears that first time S2k drag racers leave 1/2 to 1 second on the table. And after all, good old M1 protected a BMW 3 series for over 1 million miles, and the motor was still fine. One interesting Vizard test found about 1+ % HP gains and elimination of upper cylinder wear ridges by using a synthetic upper cylinder lubricant added to the fuel. That test was on iron bore engines and essentially eliminated bore wear compared to the identical comparison engine. They ran idnetical motors on the dyno for around 75K miles equiv. Of course the S2K does not use iron bores, it has fiber reinforced metal bores - carbon fiber and aluminum oxide along with (I think) integral aluminum liners.
Also, on the break-in thing, remember that IF synthetic does lengthen break-in, that is not necessarily bad. For example if you wind up with a BETTER end result, then that can be good too. In some of Vizard's tests synths lengthened break-in about an extra month or so, but he wound up with lower friction, smoother bore/ring characteristics. Which would enhance power and longevity.
Stan
[Edited by E30M3 on 04-21-2001 at 07:03 AM]
I typically use Redline Synthetics for cases and gearboxes in my cars and motorcycles. Have not changed the case oils on my S2000 yet. I've also used redline water wetter and injector cleaner sucessfully.
I run Mobil 1 as an engine oil, however, mostly because it gets changed much more frequently, is less expensive, much easier to locate and a top notch product.
I know nothing of Royal Purple. Do they have the same following in the "racer" crowd as Redline and Mobil 1?
I run Mobil 1 as an engine oil, however, mostly because it gets changed much more frequently, is less expensive, much easier to locate and a top notch product.
I know nothing of Royal Purple. Do they have the same following in the "racer" crowd as Redline and Mobil 1?
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