This is a great write-up and was a big help in my installation of an EZ-ON top from TopsOnLine.

A side note: You can get the Robbins top in OEM material (hv denim) but you can also get it in Stayfast, which some feel is superior. It costs a good bit more so it should be.

If $867 fpr a Robbins Stayfast top is beyond your budget, I can recommend the EZ-ON Stayfast top which topsonline lists for $511. Also, all these tops are available from TopsOnLine on eBay at a Buy-It-Now cost a little lower than the TopsOnLine web site pricing.

Here are some differences in my install. Some of these may be due to the different brand of top, others because I have an 03.

I didn't remove the roll hoop trim so I didn't have to remove the center console. I did find it really helpful to remove the panels just aft of the doors.

I was able to remove and reinstall everything without too much trouble even with the roll hoop trim. I was able to reach everything with a minimum of profanity.

I didn't have to remove the upper tension cable connector (the one that is rivited). And the pocket openings on the EZ-ON top are big enough that I didn't have to use string. A fish made from a coat hanger worked just fine to get the springs and cables through the roof pockets and the little guides on the frame.

EZ-ON instructions involve securing the tabs at the corners of the header (and thus forming a sort of pocket) using contact cement. This worked very well.

The only rivets involved in my install were the two on each side that hold the roof in place behind the bright metal brackets at the rear of the side windows. There were no rivets on the rear of the OEM top or around the drain channel it fits into, nor were there any instructions to install rivets in this area during the EZ-ON top install. The bottom edge of the top is reinforced, sandwiched between the two sides of the drain chanel, and secured by the threaded studs. The metal retaining plate and five nuts hold everything in place. Maybe this is a change with the 2003 model.

The little clips are indeed a bit hard to get to (the ones that you needed a stubby screwdriver to remove and install). The Robbins top did not have holes in the top material/plastic backing tabs. So I tapped holes with the screws that hold the tabs in place. But I didn't need a stubby or ratchet to get the screws in. A smallish screwdriver worked fine...as long as you have taken out the inner panel from aft of the door opening.

Overall the fit and ease of installation of the EZ-ON top was first rate. At this point (I haven't even latched the header yet) the rear window sags just a bit more than stock glass, to the point where it may contact the roll hoop trim over bumps. But once it is latched and allowed to sit for a day or two this may correct itself. The top appears to be of high quality and is made of the same material as the more expensive Robbins top.

The EZ-ON top comes with very good illustrated instructions, although they don't cpver removing the rear tray or other interior trim pieces. But between their instructions, a Helm shop manual (useful especially for identifying and replacing all the different types of fasteners), and Cyclon's great write up, every step was pretty clear.

The EZ-ON top does NOT come with replacement elastic straps. If you get this top and your straps are worn, you can get replacements at modifry.com (another sponsor) or make your own as Cyclon suggested. Either way, they will go on a lot easier during the top-swap than after the new top is installed, so get some if you need 'em.

I'll add a bit more on EZ-ON fitment once the top is closed and I have a chance to drive on the I-10.

Sorry...no pics. I was too busy worrying about rain to stop for pics. Fortunately my son showed up to help (this job definitely goes a lot smoother with two people) with a canopy and it didn't rain after all.

 

I can report that the fit of the EZ-ON top is very good. It will likely improve a bit over the next few top-up days.

Here are some pics of the top, installed.




What appears to be discoloration in this picture is just a trick of the light. The top is uniformly black.


And those spots near the rear window are just cat-paw tracks.

 

I went for a Robbins with a vinyl rear window due to costs, the only trouble I've had is that the rear window doesn't pull flat when the top is up, I attached the rain rail in only three places, the middle and the ends. does anyone know if this could be the problem? I'll be riveting it on properly later on today but i don't hold much hope for it being as good a fit as the oem window.

 

thank you

 

Vinyl windows can be difficult to work with if they are folded up in the shipment box or have some bends in them when installing. Make sure the new vinyl window is perfectly smooth before installing by either leaving it out in the sun or warming it up with a hair dryer or some form of mild heat to get it. Also, make sure ALL the rivets are in that attach it to the rain rail. Leaving just one out will cause wrinkles in the base area and possibly affect how the vinyl window sits as well.

 

Hi Joe - I just got those mcmaster carr black anodized barrel nuts. I can post a pic here if you want to edit/add it to your 1st post. Let me know. I am going to be using your thread as the bible for my install...

Also, is there a special tool to pull those black plugs in the front part inside the rubber molding. I am nervous I will break mine. If you have a part no. handy, I may just order them to be safe. I am still waiting on parts from hardtopguy....

Thanks!

 

Are the elastic straps a must, and if only for the long term can they be installed after the initial installation?

 

Ok, I am in the middle of my top install using these instructions and need some help with the retrofit straps.

1) Joe's instructions attach the retrofit strap separately to the bar by drilling 2 holes while the robbins top uses the same rear holes as the main straps attach to? Do I go with Joe's way or robbins?

2) Do I pull the elastic tight and rivet in the retrostraps or to the strap lenght and allow for cloth to have slack like Joe's pic? They pull it tight in Robbin's instructions while Joe's pic does not do so?

3) The long strap that attaches to the studs, does is get rivetted below the bow. If the elastic faces up per pics, the strap seems to come up and over the rivets while Joe's pic does not show it that way on the rear bar?

 

Never mind, I used the instructions from robbins to get it done. I hope its right. I am still waiting on Jeff for defroster parts now

 

can you still be able to put the hardtop without any problems ??
with the robbins w/ glass under the hardtop ?
i have a 2001 btw