Replacing your convertible top with a Robbins Top
Hey guys
I'm working on my glass window conversion. But I'm having some issues with the retrofit of the straps and attachment of the velcro sleeves on the hoops. The way these directions sound, only one hoop (the middle bar) should be within the sleeve. HOWEVER, after checking out this link My link, it appears that both hoops(the middle bar and the rear bar) should be inside of the sleeve....clarification needed! And...since I'm pretty sure I've already got this step wrong....does anybody have a good method of getting plastic strips out of the channels without bendingtearing things up too badly??
Also, how should the top fold with the new glass??? I've attached the retrofit nylon straps to the hoop and run them straight back to the outer most studs on the central metal trim piece. However I'm concerned about how the top folds with these straps like this...they seem to catch the glass and are putting added pressure on it. How should these straps go in???? How long are they supposed to be? should they have any slack when the top is up or should they be as tight as reasonably possible?
Also, I'm not sure if it matters or not but I bought an OEM softop with glass, not the Robbins. Yes I know I spent more money for basically the same thing, but I just like OEM.
Thanks for your help!
Josh
I'm working on my glass window conversion. But I'm having some issues with the retrofit of the straps and attachment of the velcro sleeves on the hoops. The way these directions sound, only one hoop (the middle bar) should be within the sleeve. HOWEVER, after checking out this link My link, it appears that both hoops(the middle bar and the rear bar) should be inside of the sleeve....clarification needed! And...since I'm pretty sure I've already got this step wrong....does anybody have a good method of getting plastic strips out of the channels without bendingtearing things up too badly??
Also, how should the top fold with the new glass??? I've attached the retrofit nylon straps to the hoop and run them straight back to the outer most studs on the central metal trim piece. However I'm concerned about how the top folds with these straps like this...they seem to catch the glass and are putting added pressure on it. How should these straps go in???? How long are they supposed to be? should they have any slack when the top is up or should they be as tight as reasonably possible?
Also, I'm not sure if it matters or not but I bought an OEM softop with glass, not the Robbins. Yes I know I spent more money for basically the same thing, but I just like OEM.
Thanks for your help!
Josh
I have just DIY swapped the Robbins Cloth Top with Rear glass on my friends AP1... it is not a difficult job but it take patients which i ran out at the end... haha it too 2 long nights for me to finish.
The fit and finish is top notch on the Robbins Cloth top, it feels much better than OEM top!
The fit and finish is top notch on the Robbins Cloth top, it feels much better than OEM top!
Alright, I've just finished swapping a Robbins top onto my 2003, but I'm unable to close the top at all. When I put all my weight on the front bar, it is too far away from the striker to be able to grab it. Less than an inch away, but still too far.
Do I need to just let it sit in the up position for a while? I have a space heater blasting now, but I don't want to leave it that way overnight. Or does this indicate that I've done something wrong?
I think I've done everything right so far. The rear window hangs a little lower than it should, but it seems like that's a symptom of the top not being closed all the way, not the problem itself.
Any input is appreciated.
Do I need to just let it sit in the up position for a while? I have a space heater blasting now, but I don't want to leave it that way overnight. Or does this indicate that I've done something wrong?
I think I've done everything right so far. The rear window hangs a little lower than it should, but it seems like that's a symptom of the top not being closed all the way, not the problem itself.
Any input is appreciated.
It's really tight when you first install it; when I did my Robbins top it took 2 people to barely pull it closed. It's really hard to get latched the first time. Once you get it latched allow a week or so before you put the top down again to give it some time to stretch out.
Thanks for the input. It was no better after sitting all night, so I'm going to get a second set of hands out here and man-handle it.
Just wanted to make sure that was normal. The more I look over my work, the more I'm convinced that it's installed correctly.
Just wanted to make sure that was normal. The more I look over my work, the more I'm convinced that it's installed correctly.
Oh man, I started it, re-connected the top motor plug, and tried the roof motor button just for kicks, and it moved it close enough that I could latch it by hand without any help. How about that!!! Don't know why I couldn't get it to do the same thing by hand. Oh well, it's "baking" now with the windows up and the heat on full blast. Thanks to Cyclon36 and all of the other posters in this thread. Couldn't have done it without you all. Literally, because Robbins didn't send me any instructions with my top.
Yeah the only thing Robbins sent me was a note saying that only a shop should replace the top and not to do it on my own.
The install was a major PITA though. It took me 11-12 hours.
Anyways enjoy the new top!
The install was a major PITA though. It took me 11-12 hours.Anyways enjoy the new top!
I already am! It looks so much better than the old worn-out one. It is quieter too without any holes, and I don't even have the rear tray and insulation back in yet. I have to wait until the Honda dealer is open tomorrow to get a couple of interior clips that I broke, and a tube of shin-etsu. The weatherseals at the front corners leak a little when I spray them with the hose.
" make it cloth " ..much much better than any OEM top Honda ever made .


