S/C Engine reliability and mods
With the installation of a supercharger, what more needs to be modified in the engine? Do you have to change the ECU? Can teh stock clutch handle the power of a supercharger? From what I understand Superchargers like the Comptech are very easy and reliable. Is there any tuning involved or does it automatically run at 6 psi with no spikes and lag? Also is the drive shaft strong enough to handle the power? And these questions of engine and drivetrain reliability are based on teh assumption that the clutch isnt being dropped at 6000 rpm all the time. I would want to add a supercharger to my S2000 when i get it but I am concerned about teh consequences, like having to bring it to the shop all the time. Do all Honda dealers do the s/c work themselves and warranty them? Do they also warranty the engine, or does it void it? Thanks for all of you who can provide some insight.
A search will reveal more insight for you but I'll touch upon some of the answers for you.
The 2 currently available "kits" (Comptech and Vortech) are complete systems that, by themselves will run quite reliably. Obviously, the Vortech hasn't been out that long so "reliable" is an "assumed" term, here. No other engine mods are "required" but "beefing up" never hurts - it's only money!
These kits come with their own "piggy-back" ECU's.
Generally, these kits are purchased by people who like to use the power lots. After all, that's why they got them. For these, NO, the stock clutch is NOT good enough and will need replacing sooner than later. However, for those who get these kits for other reasons and drive their cars more "sanely", the stock clutch has proven to be adequate.
The Comptech is much easier to install than the Vortech.
Tuning is only necessary if the owner wants the last bit of HP out of the kit. The kits are sold as "bolt-on" and go. A S/C has no lag like a turbo because it's always spinning but there is a "threshold" rpm where the boost becomes much more pronounced. In these kits, it's been reported things get going from as low as 3000-4000 rpm.
So far, the drive shaft has not been an issue. However, the diff, CV joints, is another matter. Some owners also have installed J's 4.44 rear gears. These are much stronger than the stock gears and also provide a significant "multiplying" effect on the torque.
You shouldn't be bringing the car to the shop all the time, at least not for the S/C. Other things may break, though.
Some Honda dealers will install the Comptech kit and keep your warranty intact. In most case, though, your powertrain warranty is toast.
The 2 currently available "kits" (Comptech and Vortech) are complete systems that, by themselves will run quite reliably. Obviously, the Vortech hasn't been out that long so "reliable" is an "assumed" term, here. No other engine mods are "required" but "beefing up" never hurts - it's only money!
These kits come with their own "piggy-back" ECU's.
Generally, these kits are purchased by people who like to use the power lots. After all, that's why they got them. For these, NO, the stock clutch is NOT good enough and will need replacing sooner than later. However, for those who get these kits for other reasons and drive their cars more "sanely", the stock clutch has proven to be adequate.
The Comptech is much easier to install than the Vortech.
Tuning is only necessary if the owner wants the last bit of HP out of the kit. The kits are sold as "bolt-on" and go. A S/C has no lag like a turbo because it's always spinning but there is a "threshold" rpm where the boost becomes much more pronounced. In these kits, it's been reported things get going from as low as 3000-4000 rpm.
So far, the drive shaft has not been an issue. However, the diff, CV joints, is another matter. Some owners also have installed J's 4.44 rear gears. These are much stronger than the stock gears and also provide a significant "multiplying" effect on the torque.
You shouldn't be bringing the car to the shop all the time, at least not for the S/C. Other things may break, though.
Some Honda dealers will install the Comptech kit and keep your warranty intact. In most case, though, your powertrain warranty is toast.
Thanks for your info man it really helped. ALso, you say piggyback ecu. That is a programmable ECU with the use of a computer right? People who have this can play with the settings correct? If I do not launch the car or drop the clutch to hard should the stock diff and cv joints hold up ok? How expensive is it to replace the diff gears along with the cv joints?
thanks
thanks
The "piggy-back" ECU's on the 2 existing kits are NOT programmable. They are pre-set for the application at hand. People use a VAF-C to tune further.
If you don't drop clutch at high rpm (or low for S/C) you "might" be OK with diff but the CV joints are still suspect. Search "Wesmaster". He has had the most grief with the rear diff. He has Comptech.
PS. I am currently installing Vortech. I also have the J's 4.44.
If you don't drop clutch at high rpm (or low for S/C) you "might" be OK with diff but the CV joints are still suspect. Search "Wesmaster". He has had the most grief with the rear diff. He has Comptech.
PS. I am currently installing Vortech. I also have the J's 4.44.
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LostWaffle
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