S2K Tae

Hey guys, I let my car sit for about a month without driving it (no garage)with the handbrake engaged. Finally took it out , first thing I noticed when I moved it in reverse was a pop. At the time I had no idea what it was , maybe gravel or something . Fast forward hours later of driving , I’m parked and I’m fiddling around with my wheels inspecting fitment and I put my hand on my rear right wheel and it’s scorching hot. Couldn’t keep my hand on it for 1 second and it made water sizzle . Further inspection I realized my nearly new brake pad was completely eaten. I get it home and take the wheel off remove pads and they are eaten away and also have corrosive wear on them. So I get some cheap pads to put on but then I realize the brake piston is pushed out. I attempt to spin it in with the proper tool and with all my might it will not turn. I blast it with pn blaster and let it sit and then get a buddy to help me turn it with leverage from a wrench and then it turns but barely any at all. After about 20 minutes of small incriments of turns it goes in and I install the new pad. Take it for a drive the next day and that same wheel is waaaay hotter then the rest. What do you guys believe is my issue. I’ve owned this car 20k miles (102k miles total my03 ) and never bled the brakes but the car brakes fine. Other then the alarming wheel temps I don’t feel the brake dragging but idk. You guys think I should bleed the brakes then see what happens or you think that caliper is seized ?

Edit

WVCR-V

So you jacked the car up and turned the wheel to check resistance and there is no more resistance than normal? If that is the case I don't know. Everything else sounds like a seized caliper though.

S2K Tae

Actually didn’t attempt that , only had the car jacked on the one side. Will try that tho.

randomwalk101

Your caliper is seized and I don't think bleeding will do anything to fix the seized up caliber now...You should bleed though to have fresh fluid in there and remove all the water especially you haven't done it for 100k miles (may be?). Brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorb moisture)...thus the water in it will cause it to rust/seize from the inside. Should bleed your brake every 30k miles or every other year IMO.
At this stage I think you should pull the caliber out and rebuild it...might as well do it for the other side too (and perhaps the fronts too while you're at it).
Let us know how it goes...

S2K Tae

hey thanks , I see new Oem calipers are selling for about 300$ on HondaPartsNow. May just get new ones or research into rebuilding my current. Thanks again

S2K Tae

Still open to other opinions

zze86

rebuild or get some Centric/Powerstop remanufactured units. People have had good success with those.

Rebuilding the rears are a bit more complicated due to the e-brake setup.

zeroptzero

as suggested above lift the wheel and see if it turns without resistance.

It sounds like the piston might be okay if you got it installed, crack open the bleeder and see if the piston goes back into the caliper easily. Then take out the two pins on the bracket and see if they are seized or if they just need a good lube, the caliper should move side to side if not seized.

S2K Tae

will give this a go as well.

jaymz

I bought a replacement caliper from rock auto and it is a reman oem caliper. Going on the 2nd year with no issues.