I'd buy it. It's only 30k miles driven lightly. The ECU will compensate for lower octane by pulling some timing. If it's not knocking and it drives good, it should be okay. Do a compression test on it if it'll make you feel better. BTW, I'm an ASE master tech. ;-)

 

I think you're worried about the wrong things. Get a compression/leak down test to see if any damage was really done.

FYI an 11.1:1 can run just fine on 87oc gas. This isn't a boosted motor, the progression for the ECU is very linear. How do I know this? 100K + on two different 11.1:1 Honda's with 87oc, zero problems. But heck even porche with 12:1 builds their motors to run on 87oc or worse gas. They build one motor to run all over the world. Do your research there is a lot of info on this non-issue of fuel grades.

The car only has 30K on it? Well brake fluid is just due now, no reason to blame the fluid problem on the owner. Even if regularly serviced at a dealership they wouldn't touch it until now.

What's also do is the 100K service due to age (8 years). All fluids should be replaced including coolant.

Original tires? They'll need replacing as well.

Look at the soft top for tears, that's the most expensive problem you'll have.

FYI all the women I know have crubbed the wheels on their car at some point. It's because at some point in their lives they were told [-----] that is 8 inches. Totally screws with their ability to measure things for the rest of their lives.

 

You might use this fact to adroitly push the price down. Tell them the regular gas is a concern.

Overall, I'd go for it.

 

sounds like the owners have been good people, i'd just buy the car if I liked it an make them friends

 

Buy the car. You might be able to use the info on fuel to get a price reduction. The car was not driven hard and basic maintenance was probably done. Even if it was not, the milage is so low no real damage was done. Change everything and start over.

Don't let this one get away, you will be sorry if you do!

 

Thanks again for all the advise guys but the owners made the decision easy for me. They are wanting $23,000 firm which is about 5 grand over NADA and 4 over KBB if the car was in excellent like new condition. While the car is in great condition, it is definably not what I'd consider like new or excellent especially considering the question marks. I've also seen better examples go for less money in my area( last year the dealer I used to work for sold a 06 GPW with 7,000 miles for $19,500 and that car 'was' in excellent condition. We had not saved enough to buy at the time). I offered $18000 and would have bartered but he didn't want to budge (I wonder if they really want to sell ). I left my number, maybe they'll call, if not, we'll keep looking. I can't afford to buy a car and pay 5 grand over what insurance would pay in the event of a total, especially, if I don't feel that it's 100. Thank's again for all the help but we won't be able to join the S2000 club just yet, unless of course you'll accept FA5 Si's.

 

x2 ....look for another car ...you'll be happy to find most take good care of an S ...not like this women , would could care less "pep boy tires to huh ?" ...dont walk ...run

 

wow.... yep but it was a fun write up.. just imagine the next one.....




buy a 8k one and put 8 or 9 k in that beast.....

 

Honestly, octane in gas isn't too important. Octane just dictates what temperature the gas requires to ignite. So if the car was driven like a baby all its life, then its not going to make a difference. But i would pass on a car that was babied all its life, because that would mean the break in wasn't done correctly.

I am a firm believer that you have to drive it like you stole it to break in the motor.

 

While I agree the break in method doesn't seem to matter much in practice. Look at all the 250k sedans babied all their lives.

Mine wasn't broken in hard, and doesn't have any problems. Track days and all later in it's life. We're putting together a rebuild on another car and will break it in hard.