S2000 Talk Discussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it.

Should I avoid this?

Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:13 AM
  #1  
TardiS2K's Avatar
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Default Should I avoid this?

Ok so I went to check out an S today that I've been looking into purchasing. I'll basically write out the things I saw/heard that made me think twice, and ask a few questions.

To start, the car is on megan coilovers, and has 17x10 rpf1's in the rear and x9's up front, has 137k miles, and the seller owns one of those small 15 car dealerships. It's his daily, and he owes 9k on it still and that's all he's asking for it.

Here are a few concerns I saw:

1. He rolled the fenders himself and they looked a little rough, and I saw a little flaking, etc on the rolled portion inside the fender, like maybe it was rusting. Also, there was a considerable 'wave' in the front fenders that he said "happens if you take a corner with a dip in it." Carelessness?

2. He had it prepped for a turbo, but decided not to and sold all the parts for the wheels/coils. He said in prep for boost it's a common thing that people remove an airpump and blocks off the connections...is this true? He explained that the pump was involved with the evap system and heated up the cat when the car was started cold..? End result is it's throwing two cel's (I forgot to write them down so I'll get them sent tomorrow) due to its removal. He still has it so I'm asking him to install it and make sure all the codes clear.

3. I checked the oil to look for bad signs and asked him how often he did his oil and what oil he used. He said it got new oil every 3500 but he uses unsynthetic pennzoil. He continued on about how synthetic just gets too thin when it's hot and led on to tell me hes been to mechanic schooling for three years and he didn't "believe the synthetic thing". Seemed odd but I wanted to see if this is a usual s2000 thing? I know they burn oil a bit in vtec, AP1's especially.

4. The clutch was engaging way up high. It's an ACT 6 puck with a stage 2 pressure plate. Is this a sign of wear or can this be adjusted/is this normal? This being said, it was still really sticky and held well.

Should I avoid this? It's just tempting because I was planning on doing wheels and coils soon after buying an s2000, and the fact that that's been done and the decent price for the car already it would save a lot. I might just be being lazy.

Otherwise the car drove really well, it was really connected, the steering was crisp, the transmission felt really smooth. For 137k miles it didn't feel tired and worn out at all.

Any input is appreciated, trying to do my homework.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:21 AM
  #2  
Si Isnt Enough's Avatar
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Time and time again everyone says to wait for the right car. I looked at a ton, some looked good and they wouldn't budge on price, some needed worked and had a great price and others had things I thought I could "live with" or would put money into fixing. In the end I just waited and got an amazing example of the car for a price far less than I should have.

All of those questions and concerns seem like they're going to eventually lead to a headache or disappointment, one way or another. I guess ultimately you would have to think about how you would feel upon buying it and having it "as-is" in your driveway. I think you should pass and keep looking. I'm sure it's not a deal you can't pass up nor anything you can't find again.

Good luck in your search.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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I would definitely say there are too many red flags for a $9k s2k when you can get a problem free one for only a grand or two more.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 08:55 PM
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What year is it?
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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I'd avoid the s**t out of that car.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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Just FYI, I paid $10K for a bone stock AP1 with 103K on it. No need to settle for a car that has been molested.
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by NFRAP2
I would definitely say there are too many red flags for a $9k s2k when you can get a problem free one for only a grand or two more.
x2
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TardiS2K
Ok so I went to check out an S today that I've been looking into purchasing. I'll basically write out the things I saw/heard that made me think twice, and ask a few questions.

To start, the car is on megan coilovers, and has 17x10 rpf1's in the rear and x9's up front, has 137k miles, and the seller owns one of those small 15 car dealerships. It's his daily, and he owes 9k on it still and that's all he's asking for it.

Here are a few concerns I saw:

1. He rolled the fenders himself and they looked a little rough, and I saw a little flaking, etc on the rolled portion inside the fender, like maybe it was rusting. Also, there was a considerable 'wave' in the front fenders that he said "happens if you take a corner with a dip in it." Carelessness?

2. He had it prepped for a turbo, but decided not to and sold all the parts for the wheels/coils. He said in prep for boost it's a common thing that people remove an airpump and blocks off the connections...is this true? He explained that the pump was involved with the evap system and heated up the cat when the car was started cold..? End result is it's throwing two cel's (I forgot to write them down so I'll get them sent tomorrow) due to its removal. He still has it so I'm asking him to install it and make sure all the codes clear.

3. I checked the oil to look for bad signs and asked him how often he did his oil and what oil he used. He said it got new oil every 3500 but he uses unsynthetic pennzoil. He continued on about how synthetic just gets too thin when it's hot and led on to tell me hes been to mechanic schooling for three years and he didn't "believe the synthetic thing". Seemed odd but I wanted to see if this is a usual s2000 thing? I know they burn oil a bit in vtec, AP1's especially.

4. The clutch was engaging way up high. It's an ACT 6 puck with a stage 2 pressure plate. Is this a sign of wear or can this be adjusted/is this normal? This being said, it was still really sticky and held well.

Should I avoid this? It's just tempting because I was planning on doing wheels and coils soon after buying an s2000, and the fact that that's been done and the decent price for the car already it would save a lot. I might just be being lazy.

Otherwise the car drove really well, it was really connected, the steering was crisp, the transmission felt really smooth. For 137k miles it didn't feel tired and worn out at all.

Any input is appreciated, trying to do my homework.
Depends on if you are willing. If I were looking into an s2000 for the first time, I wouldnt touch a car like that AT ALL. Being an owner now and being around s2000's for nearing 3 years, I would probably look at it. Onto the questions eh.

1. Waves in the rolled fenders can happen. If he has wheels that are 2 inches wider than OEM, PLUS the offset is lower, it will happen. Any parts of the body though, if you want, can be fixed at a body shop.

2. While the pump isnt ACTUALLY necessary for the car to run, it still throws codes . It only runs for 30 seconds, as he says, for cold starts. It runs more air into the cat, to warm it up. 06+ doesnt have this system, but the older s2000's do. If he can put it back on, and reset the CEL, then all is good.

3. I believe in synthetic personally, but I am not exactly the holy grail of knowledge with oil... Nowhere near. I do have a friend who runs non synthetic in his ap1 though, because it is the only oil he has found that does not burn oil when he hits vtec. For a higher revving motor though, wouldnt you want it to be slightly thinner? I guess how thin would be up for discussion. Couldnt tell you really...

4. The clutch engages high on the s2000 in general. While shifting at a track, or during spirited driving, the driver has to press it down less than an average car to shift. Basically, quicker shifts. I really like it, a car that engages at the floor is evil IMO, but it's all preference in the end.
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 07:21 AM
  #9  
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get exactly what you want, its out there just be patient and try to widen your search if possible, make the drive to the next bordering state if you have to, it may be a keeper
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #10  
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I paid $10,700 for an 02 with 48k miles. Find the right car with the right seller
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