Smoking brakes
I went to a track event at Sebring yesterday. It was run on the short track which is known to be one of the hardest trakes on brakes. When I would pull into the pits after a 15 minute stint, my front brakes were visibly smoking
Has anyone else seen this happen. It was kinda cool, kinda scary. Except for an ordinary amount of fade they worked great.
Ole
White/Red
Has anyone else seen this happen. It was kinda cool, kinda scary. Except for an ordinary amount of fade they worked great.Ole
White/Red
Mine never smoked but got very hot at a short track that is extremely hard on brakes. Putting my hand 2 feet from the wheel felt like putting it in an oven of at least 400 degrees.
In the future I'd do a few laps of the paddock after coming in from very hard braking. I drove around for 15 mins or so until the air cooled them off. A mechanic friend told me that getting the wheels that hot is not good. He said that even if the brakes can handle it, sometimes the wheel bearing grease cannot.
I'm thinking of some brake ducting but I really don't want to cut the car up. I'd also want ducting that is plugable (to keep the rain out) for normal street use.
In the future I'd do a few laps of the paddock after coming in from very hard braking. I drove around for 15 mins or so until the air cooled them off. A mechanic friend told me that getting the wheels that hot is not good. He said that even if the brakes can handle it, sometimes the wheel bearing grease cannot.
I'm thinking of some brake ducting but I really don't want to cut the car up. I'd also want ducting that is plugable (to keep the rain out) for normal street use.
Another note: we were reminded (though Josh and Ole had already done it) that removing the center caps is a nonnegotiable! They are plastic and MELT at high temps, and melted, they cause a HUGE MESS, spraying hot liquefied plastic into calipers and other nasty places...
Originally posted by meat:
You should have got back in the car and started driving around the paddock to cool the brakes.
Plan on buying new pads and flushing your brake fluid.
You should have got back in the car and started driving around the paddock to cool the brakes.
Plan on buying new pads and flushing your brake fluid.
Amazing what the brakes must endure!Ole
White/Red
I was warned by my instructor from a previous event that the Sebring short course is extremely hard on brakes, so I came prepared with an extra set of pads. Before the event I flushed and bled the brake fluid and checked the pads. They still had about 80% of the original material, so I chose not to replace them before the event. Big mistake! I will post a follow-up on this later this morning.
As much as we've been teasing Sondra about trying to turn her S2K into an SUV
, she came to the track with an extra set of brake pads that she freely offered us should the need arise. That was very thoughtful
.
As much as we've been teasing Sondra about trying to turn her S2K into an SUV
, she came to the track with an extra set of brake pads that she freely offered us should the need arise. That was very thoughtful
.
Do consider the R4S pads next time. First impressions after a couple of street days are very positive.
http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...hp?threadid=895
http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...hp?threadid=895
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Here's a new thread on my scary brake experience. http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...p?threadid=1061
The R4S (Porterfield?) pads are sounding more and more attractive. Any more feedback, particularly in terms of their suitability for street use, and their longevity on the track?
The R4S (Porterfield?) pads are sounding more and more attractive. Any more feedback, particularly in terms of their suitability for street use, and their longevity on the track?
Slotted and drilled rotors are not a cure all. They have less surface area and therefore do not have as much stopping power.
I've also read that some types of slotted and drilled rotors fracture easily.
I've also read that some types of slotted and drilled rotors fracture easily.



