A suspension discussion/explanation thread...
Ok, I have some questions about suspension that have come up as I have looked into the possibilites of lowering my car.
Based on the assumption that one wants "better handling", what does what?
From the bit that I've read, my understanding (very limited) is sorta this:
stiffer suspension = springs with higher spring rates; OEM: F 3.9 kg/mm, R 5.2 kg/mm
body roll = controlled by sway bars; do these get "stiffer" or thicker or how does one discuss changes here?
?? = ride height
?? = stickier tires
?? = wider wheels
?? = coilovers or better struts
?? = staggered wheels setup
How do all these come together to make for "suspension"?
What changes would you recommend to get the general "better handling"? How do they all relate to one another? Which one cancels out what from the list?
Thanks!
Based on the assumption that one wants "better handling", what does what?
From the bit that I've read, my understanding (very limited) is sorta this:
stiffer suspension = springs with higher spring rates; OEM: F 3.9 kg/mm, R 5.2 kg/mm
body roll = controlled by sway bars; do these get "stiffer" or thicker or how does one discuss changes here?
?? = ride height
?? = stickier tires
?? = wider wheels
?? = coilovers or better struts
?? = staggered wheels setup
How do all these come together to make for "suspension"?
What changes would you recommend to get the general "better handling"? How do they all relate to one another? Which one cancels out what from the list?
Thanks!
Suspension 101 is not a 1 minute course. Your question is so general in nature, and the answers so complex and dependent on road surface, driving style, intended use, etc. that I doubt anyone will take this on. I would suggest searching on some of the keywords you have queried, here as well as generally on the Net.
maybe some of the old timers here have links to help you out.
I will say that in my experience, springs, bars, tires give best bang for buck, but done willy-nilly, you can end up with worse than you started. There are any number of tuner tests in the car mags where the "tuned" car is slower through the cones than the stocker. The factory engineers have the advantage of complete test instrumentation and engineering credentials, where tuners, and laymen may not, and would have to rely on trial and error. It gets very expensive. Go with a known mfr (like Eibach, Comptech, etc.) is my suggestion, and be very clear about where you want to end up, and what you are willing to compromise to get there.
maybe some of the old timers here have links to help you out.
I will say that in my experience, springs, bars, tires give best bang for buck, but done willy-nilly, you can end up with worse than you started. There are any number of tuner tests in the car mags where the "tuned" car is slower through the cones than the stocker. The factory engineers have the advantage of complete test instrumentation and engineering credentials, where tuners, and laymen may not, and would have to rely on trial and error. It gets very expensive. Go with a known mfr (like Eibach, Comptech, etc.) is my suggestion, and be very clear about where you want to end up, and what you are willing to compromise to get there.
I noticed a great improvement with the Whiteline sway bar. The stock sway is hollow, the Whiteline is solid and a bit thicker in diameter.
The one thing that you overlooked in your investigation is alignment. I feel that any change you make to your setup should include an educated alignment.
I agree with Road Rage, this isn't a 1 minute course and there have been numerous posts on the individual items you've listed. You may want to also do a net search for basic information on "How suspension works" You can look around here http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ as well. Keep in mind, most stuff you read is based on the opinions of an individual, look for viable resources when searching.
The one thing that you overlooked in your investigation is alignment. I feel that any change you make to your setup should include an educated alignment.
I agree with Road Rage, this isn't a 1 minute course and there have been numerous posts on the individual items you've listed. You may want to also do a net search for basic information on "How suspension works" You can look around here http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ as well. Keep in mind, most stuff you read is based on the opinions of an individual, look for viable resources when searching.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Road Rage
Suspension 101 is not a 1 minute course. Your question is so general in nature, and the answers so complex and dependent on road surface, driving style, intended use, etc. that I doubt anyone will take this on.
Suspension 101 is not a 1 minute course. Your question is so general in nature, and the answers so complex and dependent on road surface, driving style, intended use, etc. that I doubt anyone will take this on.
This discussion has been going on for about 3 years now...it's called "The Racing & Competition Forum".
There's easily a couple books' worth of info there if you're willing to do enough searches and reading.
You could also go out and get one of the more elementary books on the subject for a good foundation of understanding, then come back and do your reading and searches to fill in the blanks with S2000-specific information.
There's easily a couple books' worth of info there if you're willing to do enough searches and reading.You could also go out and get one of the more elementary books on the subject for a good foundation of understanding, then come back and do your reading and searches to fill in the blanks with S2000-specific information.
Trending Topics
You missed the point - it is about road surfaces where you plan to drive aggressively - if they are bumpy, I might suggest stiffer anti-rool bars but leave the springs alone. if they are billiard table smooth, then the lowering springs and bars are the hot setup.
European cars are generally set up with compliant (read "soft") springs with long travel, and then stiff bars to reduce roll. This setup provides excellent roadability on less than ideal surfaces, such as one experiences in Europe a lot. Plus a good ride. That is why tuners here (like Steve Dinan for BMW) can do the springs/bars and set the cars up for great cornering ability in canyons like the Angeles Crest outside LA (one of the best drives of my life).
Got it?
European cars are generally set up with compliant (read "soft") springs with long travel, and then stiff bars to reduce roll. This setup provides excellent roadability on less than ideal surfaces, such as one experiences in Europe a lot. Plus a good ride. That is why tuners here (like Steve Dinan for BMW) can do the springs/bars and set the cars up for great cornering ability in canyons like the Angeles Crest outside LA (one of the best drives of my life).
Got it?
So bars and not lowered for rough/everyday surfaces; springs + bars for smooth surfaces.
How doest the drop of the springs affect the setup? What about the spring rate? How does the feel of the car change with each? How to struts change the mix (ie konis etc) vs. ful coilovers?
Thanks for the help!
How doest the drop of the springs affect the setup? What about the spring rate? How does the feel of the car change with each? How to struts change the mix (ie konis etc) vs. ful coilovers?
Thanks for the help!




