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yeah mine is past due for inspection. But after the last track day I need to replace the windshield as I ended up with a crack in it. May be out of the way enough to pass though, but it is so pitted up at this point it just needs replacing
yeah mine is past due for inspection. But after the last track day I need to replace the windshield as I ended up with a crack in it. May be out of the way enough to pass though, but it is so pitted up at this point it just needs replacing
I hold my breath every year hoping that one of my headlight bulbs aren’t burnt out lol.
Here in Vt if the crack isn’t in the drivers view it will pass. I hate to wait like to get it done as soon as possible. I have everything for both cars due this month so it’s a p.i.t.a. but it’s also a relief when everything is done. My brakes passed so I can still brag that my S has the original brakes on it right down to the pads.
lol I cant count how many brake pads mine has had .. but track car I went through half a front set of carbotechs at the last event! Granted, that event got us 3 hours on track in one day so more like a couple of normal events. I have replaced calipers once too from track use. The rears were not oem and already have cooked boots from the heat.
Our rule here is that the crack cannot be in the sweep of the wipers I think and this one is RIGHT on the edge. however, the place I go does not look too hard at things, especially on the s2k. I think last time he just put a sticker on it and I paid my $12 But the pitting is bad enough that I want to replace it at this point. Besides being low and getting more road debris, some tracks get gritty and thus, the windshield can get sandblasted sometimes.
lol I cant count how many brake pads mine has had .. but track car I went through half a front set of carbotechs at the last event! Granted, that event got us 3 hours on track in one day so more like a couple of normal events. I have replaced calipers once too from track use. The rears were not oem and already have cooked boots from the heat.
Our rule here is that the crack cannot be in the sweep of the wipers I think and this one is RIGHT on the edge. however, the place I go does not look too hard at things, especially on the s2k. I think last time he just put a sticker on it and I paid my $12 But the pitting is bad enough that I want to replace it at this point. Besides being low and getting more road debris, some tracks get gritty and thus, the windshield can get sandblasted sometimes.
It used to be like that here but the state cracked down and now when a person is doing an inspection they have to take a picture of everything that they inspect and send it to the state it’s a pita for the shops and they also had to buy a lot of new equipment to do it this way at their cost of course. The cost for the consumer is now 65.00 per car pass or fail.
Did the clutch interlock bypass on my ap1
Went thru replacing the stopper in my old ap2 a few years back without taking off the pedal and I didn't enjoy that too much lol
Ill properly fix it when I replace my cmc at some point..
Ive been wanting to post this for months. I got off jackstands and drove the S2 for the first time in 8 months. One of the reasons I hadnt been tracking was concern for wear items around the chassis. I also needed to grease the throwout bearing. Was only suposed to be down 3 months but so little money and time with children. Stripped the suspension and:
Sent dampers for testing (Anze - good)
Scrubbed the wheel wells and under body clean
Greased all suspension bushings
Rebuilt and painted all 4 brake calipers
R&R trans to grease throwout bearing sleeve
New fender liners
New lower shock mount bushings.
New rear UCA bushings
4x New hubs and wheel bearings and wheel studs
Rebuilt axels
Re-hung the exaust for the 4th time
Car now sits 3/8" lower than before. I setup the dampers with new bumpstops and engineered front and rear to engage the bump stops right before crashing onto the chassis unlike HKS's out of box setup with 255 e55 tire/offset.
First start after 8 months and had a cyl 4 misfire. Resistance check, noid light, afr check later found inj with a stuck closed pintle so tapped on the side of it with a punch untill it woke up.
Phew. Its good to be back. Just need RComps for the new wheels to track again.
I hold my breath every year hoping that one of my headlight bulbs aren’t burnt out lol.
Here in Vt if the crack isn’t in the drivers view it will pass. I hate to wait like to get it done as soon as possible. I have everything for both cars due this month so it’s a p.i.t.a. but it’s also a relief when everything is done. My brakes passed so I can still brag that my S has the original brakes on it right down to the pads.
wow. How many miles?
poor planning on my part but I ran a track night with a new set of ap2 pads. They were pretty much junk after that. Over heated, bunch of cracks in the compound and dinner through well over half thickness.
good lesson on how much more heat you can generate in your brakes on track. Just glad I didn’t wreck!
lol I cant count how many brake pads mine has had .. but track car I went through half a front set of carbotechs at the last event! Granted, that event got us 3 hours on track in one day so more like a couple of normal events. I have replaced calipers once too from track use. The rears were not oem and already have cooked boots from the heat.
Our rule here is that the crack cannot be in the sweep of the wipers I think and this one is RIGHT on the edge. however, the place I go does not look too hard at things, especially on the s2k. I think last time he just put a sticker on it and I paid my $12 But the pitting is bad enough that I want to replace it at this point. Besides being low and getting more road debris, some tracks get gritty and thus, the windshield can get sandblasted sometimes.
does anyone make a clear protector that you could peel off after a track event?
Ive been wanting to post this for months. I got off jackstands and drove the S2 for the first time in 8 months. One of the reasons I hadnt been tracking was concern for wear items around the chassis. I also needed to grease the throwout bearing. Was only suposed to be down 3 months but so little money and time with children. Stripped the suspension and:
Sent dampers for testing (Anze - good)
Scrubbed the wheel wells and under body clean
Greased all suspension bushings
Rebuilt and painted all 4 brake calipers
R&R trans to grease throwout bearing sleeve
New fender liners
New lower shock mount bushings.
New rear UCA bushings
4x New hubs and wheel bearings and wheel studs
Rebuilt axels
Re-hung the exaust for the 4th time
Car now sits 3/8" lower than before. I setup the dampers with new bumpstops and engineered front and rear to engage the bump stops right before crashing onto the chassis unlike HKS's out of box setup with 255 e55 tire/offset.
First start after 8 months and had a cyl 4 misfire. Resistance check, noid light, afr check later found inj with a stuck closed pintle so tapped on the side of it with a punch untill it woke up.
Phew. Its good to be back. Just need RComps for the new wheels to track again.
nice work!
I was just under the car swapping the exhaust for next week. My wheel wells need redoing, I’d love to strip the car down and respray the whole underbody. I’ve seen others do it, tremendous amount of elbow grease but she’s worth it. Might be the deciding factor whether I build my own workshop or not.
I went through half a front set of carbotechs at the last event! Granted, that event got us 3 hours on track in one day so more like a couple of normal events. I have replaced calipers once too from track use. The rears were not oem and already have cooked boots from the heat. 
But the pitting is bad enough that I want to replace it at this point. Besides being low and getting more road debris, some tracks get gritty and thus, the windshield can get sandblasted sometimes.
