Windscreen Saftey Switch (long with pics)
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,338
Likes: 234
From: Mid-Atlantic
Ok, I am paranoid.
I installed a saftey switch that prevents the top from moving when the screen is down. It did not take long but I am not done.
Tools and Supplies:
Pushbutton switch (Normally OFF/open, Momentary On/closed
Drill Bit for switch hole
5 - 6 feet wire (measure I forgot to)
Electrical connectors (at least two female and one male if you don't want to cut wires)
Utility knife
Tape/clips (to hold down wires in the box) Not needed if you run the wires behind the glove box.
One word of CAUTION: WHEN THE SCREEN IS DOWN AND THE EMER. BRAKE IS UP THE DASHBOARD LIGHT WILL NOT GO ON.
Wiring: One wire goes from the switch to the Emerg. brake connection, the other goes from the switch to the wire that was previously connected to the emerg. brake.
I took 2 wires (about 5 - 6 ft, needs to be long enough to go from the back of the secret compartment to the brake in the tunnel) and snaked one end from the glove box hinge into the tunnel. Want to run the wires behind the glove box but don't have time right now to figure out how to remove it.
If anyone knows how to remove the glove box section please let me know.
The clear box is my proximity sensor.
I am sorry that I did not take the pic before I wrapped the wire.
There is one wire that goes to the emerg. brake. I disconnected it and then put a female connector on one wire and attached it to the brake (the other end will go to the switch). I attached a male connector to another wire and attached it to the wire that previously was connected to the emerg. brake. No cutting and you can restore the orig. connections later if you want. I wrapped the wires for added protection from the high temps in the tunnel (the original wire is in a sleeve).
I ran the wire into the glove box (held by clips and tape) and around to the "secret compartment". The wire does not show when the box is closed.
I then drilled a hole for the switch by taking off the windscreen and laying down the switches locking nut on the lid to position it right. You want it to be in front of the screen under the hinge (pics below). The lid is hollow inside. I then used a utility knife (I slipped a couple of times) to cut the rectangle so that the switch body fits inside (I want to find something to encase it but for now I used tape). The lid has ribs inside, if you one is in the way just use the knife to scrape it down.
This is the switch with the screen down. The top will not operate in this position. NEITHER WILL THE EMERG. BRAKE LIGHT ON THE DASH.
This is the swtich with the screen up. Everything works in this position.
If anyone has any questions or sugg. improvements please let me know.
Jim
I installed a saftey switch that prevents the top from moving when the screen is down. It did not take long but I am not done.
Tools and Supplies:
Pushbutton switch (Normally OFF/open, Momentary On/closed
Drill Bit for switch hole
5 - 6 feet wire (measure I forgot to)
Electrical connectors (at least two female and one male if you don't want to cut wires)
Utility knife
Tape/clips (to hold down wires in the box) Not needed if you run the wires behind the glove box.
One word of CAUTION: WHEN THE SCREEN IS DOWN AND THE EMER. BRAKE IS UP THE DASHBOARD LIGHT WILL NOT GO ON.
Wiring: One wire goes from the switch to the Emerg. brake connection, the other goes from the switch to the wire that was previously connected to the emerg. brake.
I took 2 wires (about 5 - 6 ft, needs to be long enough to go from the back of the secret compartment to the brake in the tunnel) and snaked one end from the glove box hinge into the tunnel. Want to run the wires behind the glove box but don't have time right now to figure out how to remove it.
If anyone knows how to remove the glove box section please let me know.
The clear box is my proximity sensor.
I am sorry that I did not take the pic before I wrapped the wire.
There is one wire that goes to the emerg. brake. I disconnected it and then put a female connector on one wire and attached it to the brake (the other end will go to the switch). I attached a male connector to another wire and attached it to the wire that previously was connected to the emerg. brake. No cutting and you can restore the orig. connections later if you want. I wrapped the wires for added protection from the high temps in the tunnel (the original wire is in a sleeve).
I ran the wire into the glove box (held by clips and tape) and around to the "secret compartment". The wire does not show when the box is closed.
I then drilled a hole for the switch by taking off the windscreen and laying down the switches locking nut on the lid to position it right. You want it to be in front of the screen under the hinge (pics below). The lid is hollow inside. I then used a utility knife (I slipped a couple of times) to cut the rectangle so that the switch body fits inside (I want to find something to encase it but for now I used tape). The lid has ribs inside, if you one is in the way just use the knife to scrape it down.
This is the switch with the screen down. The top will not operate in this position. NEITHER WILL THE EMERG. BRAKE LIGHT ON THE DASH.
This is the swtich with the screen up. Everything works in this position.
If anyone has any questions or sugg. improvements please let me know.
Jim
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,049
Likes: 1
From: Timonium
Good work, Jim! I'll check the manual to see how the hidden compartment can be removed. I'll be copying your mod for sure. I was lucky the last time I put the top down with the screen folded back, but I don't want to try it again 
.
.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
Jim,
Looks like a really nice job.
Just a reminder, if anybody is interested...
To the best of my knowledge there is a soft top disabling switch installed with the hardtop attachment kit. It prevents the top from being accidentally raised when the hardtop is in place, which is similar to what is being done here for the aeroscreen. It seems like the directions, or possibly switch/harness that comes with the hard top install kit might be useful for creating a disabling switch for the aeroscreen, as was done by Jim above. You would think that following the Honda hardtop directions would allow a softtop defeat switch to be installed without affecting the parking brake idiot light in the dash.
Sorry I don't have any other info, and I don't have install instructions for the hardtop, but I remember reading about this somewhere. It would be interesting to know how the hardtop switch connects to the car's electrical system.
Anybody know???
Looks like a really nice job.
Just a reminder, if anybody is interested...
To the best of my knowledge there is a soft top disabling switch installed with the hardtop attachment kit. It prevents the top from being accidentally raised when the hardtop is in place, which is similar to what is being done here for the aeroscreen. It seems like the directions, or possibly switch/harness that comes with the hard top install kit might be useful for creating a disabling switch for the aeroscreen, as was done by Jim above. You would think that following the Honda hardtop directions would allow a softtop defeat switch to be installed without affecting the parking brake idiot light in the dash.
Sorry I don't have any other info, and I don't have install instructions for the hardtop, but I remember reading about this somewhere. It would be interesting to know how the hardtop switch connects to the car's electrical system.
Anybody know???
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Will share my findings from this past weekend. First, I don't think Jim is paranoid, just being wise to install a safety switch since sooner or later yoiu will forget.
First, it's not necessary to remove the entire compartment box assembly (and believe me you don't want to, it's a hell of a job). Here's what you do:
1. Mount the switch in the lid per Jim's pictures. I used a Radio Shack 275-644. It's all black and very small so it barely protrudes into the compartment. Remember the lid is double walled with a space between. Drill hole for switch all the way thru the lid, then enlarge the hole in bottom wall so you can put lock nut on switch (the threads on switch are not long enuf to go thru entire lid thichness). The switch looks very nice and only protrudes 1/4 inch above surface and is hardly noticeable. In fact button on switch does not quite touch frame of aeroscreen so you will need to put somrthing on bottom of screen to push down button. I glued on a small faucet washer.
2. Switch should be just inside of aeroscreen hinge. It can be on EITHER side but for the sake of this discussion let's assume it's on RIGHT (passenger) side. Also all references I will make to the "secret compartment" (SC) apply to the REAR one (the deepest one nearest the back of the car).
3. In the SC, drill a hole in the SIDE wall (the right side in this case) of the compartment. The location is not critical but get it as low and as near front wall of compartment as your drill will allow you. About an inch from bottom and front wall is fine. Size of hole not critical but make it large enuf for your wires and a coat hanger.
4. Remove the lower roll bar trim panel on the right (in this case) side. This is the rectangular panel with louvers in it behind the seat. Flip down the screw covers on the two "coat hooks" and remove the hooks using phillips head or 8 mm socket. These are the only screws. The panel is held in by 4 clips so just give it a good yank and it will pop off. It takes a firm pull.
5. Now go back to the SC and poke a stiff wire (piece of coat hanger is fine) thru the hole you drilled. You may have to put a gentle bend in the coat hanger and play with it a bit but the end should come out where you removed the panel in step 4 above. Use the coat hanger to pull your switch wires thru the hole.
6. Pull up the panel on the tunnel (the one with the cup holder, etc). It just snaps in place so pull straight up. You don't have to remove it entirely as you can pull it off the handbrake and rotate it out of the way if you remove the shift knob. You will see two screws now revealed just below the power outlet. Remove them and you will be able to pull up the compartment assemblyt enuf to route the switch wires completely out of sight to the handbrake.
7. Put everything back together and use wire clips to anchor the wires in the SC as they run from the switch to the hole. Enjoy.
Andrew
First, it's not necessary to remove the entire compartment box assembly (and believe me you don't want to, it's a hell of a job). Here's what you do:
1. Mount the switch in the lid per Jim's pictures. I used a Radio Shack 275-644. It's all black and very small so it barely protrudes into the compartment. Remember the lid is double walled with a space between. Drill hole for switch all the way thru the lid, then enlarge the hole in bottom wall so you can put lock nut on switch (the threads on switch are not long enuf to go thru entire lid thichness). The switch looks very nice and only protrudes 1/4 inch above surface and is hardly noticeable. In fact button on switch does not quite touch frame of aeroscreen so you will need to put somrthing on bottom of screen to push down button. I glued on a small faucet washer.
2. Switch should be just inside of aeroscreen hinge. It can be on EITHER side but for the sake of this discussion let's assume it's on RIGHT (passenger) side. Also all references I will make to the "secret compartment" (SC) apply to the REAR one (the deepest one nearest the back of the car).
3. In the SC, drill a hole in the SIDE wall (the right side in this case) of the compartment. The location is not critical but get it as low and as near front wall of compartment as your drill will allow you. About an inch from bottom and front wall is fine. Size of hole not critical but make it large enuf for your wires and a coat hanger.
4. Remove the lower roll bar trim panel on the right (in this case) side. This is the rectangular panel with louvers in it behind the seat. Flip down the screw covers on the two "coat hooks" and remove the hooks using phillips head or 8 mm socket. These are the only screws. The panel is held in by 4 clips so just give it a good yank and it will pop off. It takes a firm pull.
5. Now go back to the SC and poke a stiff wire (piece of coat hanger is fine) thru the hole you drilled. You may have to put a gentle bend in the coat hanger and play with it a bit but the end should come out where you removed the panel in step 4 above. Use the coat hanger to pull your switch wires thru the hole.
6. Pull up the panel on the tunnel (the one with the cup holder, etc). It just snaps in place so pull straight up. You don't have to remove it entirely as you can pull it off the handbrake and rotate it out of the way if you remove the shift knob. You will see two screws now revealed just below the power outlet. Remove them and you will be able to pull up the compartment assemblyt enuf to route the switch wires completely out of sight to the handbrake.
7. Put everything back together and use wire clips to anchor the wires in the SC as they run from the switch to the hole. Enjoy.
Andrew
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