So cylinder 4 is the trouble maker... Reading some other threads a lot of people get lucky with a valve adjustment...

My question is would a valve adjustment account for that compression drop difference of -60?!

 

You may want to slow down on making unnecessary adjustments on the s2000 so you can pinpoint the exact problem.

Before you spend or waste money getting a valve adjustment, you should find an honest mechanic to perform a leak down test. That test will determine whether its the bottom or top end.

If your valves are just out of specs, I doubt that you will lose compression; it will simply throw an engine code. If compression is lost, the chances are that the owner neglected the car. The valve on cylinder 4 could be burnt or bent. The piston rings could be shot or the cylinder wall is scored— who knows.

After you pinpoint the problem, you can then think about a method to repair, replace, or rebuild. Keep in mind that rebuilding the bottom end is more difficult on an s2000 than other Hondas. You can replace or rebuild the head fairly cheap. Furthermore, if you look on s2ki's classfields there are used engines for around 2.5-3.5k. It maybe cheaper just to replace the entire unit.

 

Out of spec valves can and will cause a loss of compression, especially if they are too tight!! Checking and adjusting valves back to spec is in no way making the problem more difficult to pinpoint, if they are out of spec they need adjusted regardless of if it fixes the issue.

If the OP has not checked the retainers yet that needs done as well, that is just a good idea on any used AP1

 

you guys are all so helpful you have no idea, appreciate all the info.

Leak down test being done as we speak, going to head over to shop in a little and take some pics so I can see for myself and post here for 2nd opinion.

Thanks again,

-Eric

 

Where are you located? Ask a fellow member to help you out and do a valve adjustment.

 

Being a '00 I would be most worried about the #4 cylinder. If you haven't get a BORE SCOPE and look down inside at the walls and compare to 1-3. You might be looking at a bigger issue if the Banjo Bolts were never upgraded and engine pushed. I learned this the hard way at 110K and spun a bearing.

 

I am located in Philly PA area...

So they did a leak down test and compression loss wasn't significant enough for them to identify the issue --- they are pulling the head and taking a closer look. Will post more info soon.

 

shop Is actually going to do that now... spinning a bearing yikes, at that point the shop would have to replace entire crankshaft, connecting rod etc correct?

Can you elaborate more on the bajo bolts because this is exactly cylinder #4 that's the trouble maker.

 

Start a regiment of getting your oil tested by Blackstone Labs. They gave me a heads up about 3K before it totally went. Though it was only the 2nd or 3rd at most test! Showed high levels of metals that indicated bearing wear. If I was testing sooner they might have noticed the increase sooner and I could have gotten ahead of it.

In short: It's the oil sprayers that have only 2 holes in the bolt and the newer ones do a better job of spraying and lubricating the rear cylinders near the firewall.(#3-4) Just google search it. It's a small price to pay for HUGE insurance. Yes, once it goes then it's essentially a full re-build! Crank, rings, re-sleeve or hone.(maybe more) All around not fun.

Luckily for me a fellow S2K guy Legal Bill helped me locate a wrecked S '02 with 16K miles on it. So I just swapped engines and OFF I WENT. Checked the engine build #(not vin) to indicate if it had the newer bolts which it did by about 700 engines.

My bad engine looked like poop was smeared down the cylinder walls due to high friction levels.

 

I'll have to look into that blackstone labs... actually never heard of it with any car i've owned... shame on me.

Just got a call back from shop after they pulled the head and it appears to be an exhaust valve leak specific to cylinder #4. They are having their machine shop come take a look before they give their final recommendation.

Any expert advise from this crew? Within the next couple months will be doing basic AEM EMS V2 + decent supercharger setup to hit ~300 WHP goal so any insurance preparations would be appreciated.