Just wondering, because I haven't done it yet.

There was a thread in S2000 talk (but i think the original poster deleted it ) about an owner adjusting the valves and several methods for getting the cam gear to the right position (TDC?).

The duscussion went into talking about the way to get the cam gears right for valve adjustment. Which is the proper method? Of course I know (now) to take out the spark plugs to releave pressure and leave the car in neutral.

1. Turn the cam gears by hand to TDC.

2. Turn the cam gears to TDC by turning the nut on the front of the engine

3. Blipping the starter several times until it eventually ends with the cam gear close to TDC

4. Jacking the car up, engaging the tranny in 5th, and turning the driver side wheel until the cam gear is at TDC.

Which method do you use? (or do you use another method?)

Does the Helm manual outline the proceedures well for adjusting the valves, or is their any info it left out? What method do you use to rotate the cranshaft clockwise 180 degrees in step 7 of the helms manual, also?

Thanks

 

Until someone who has done this answers, I can give you a generic answer. You would NOT do 1 & 4. 3 used to be done in the "old" days of OHV engines. If you try this on the S2000, you would be pulling your hair out trying to get it to line up just right on the marks. 2 is most likely the recommended method. You need to turn the bolt of the pulley that is connected to the front of the crankshaft. This is how the engine normally turns the cam gears. Using a 1/2" drive socket wrench with a long handle will give you more leverage. Even with this engine's high compression, a 1/2" drive should allow you to turn it with the plugs in (better with them out, though). Use a pipe over the wrench handle to increase the leverage if need be. Make sure you are turning the engine in the correct direction. I don't have the Helm manual in front of me so I can't tell you what direction that might be (clock or counter-clock). Good luck and let us know how it all worked out.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Squeezer
[B]

 

I have a trigger switch from sears with two clips on the end. It's sole purpose is connecting from the battery to the starter to allow you to turn over the engine while under the hood. It's much more easy to use than blipping the starter, because you can advance smaller amounts and watch what's happening.

Using this method completely bypasses the necessity to retorque the crankshaft bolt after adjusting valves. However, using the crankshaft bolt is the method descibed in the shop manual.

When I'm lazy, I'll blip the starter without hooking this up (on my beater). But you ALWAYS want to remove the spark plugs so there is no compression which makes it very difficult to land at TDC.

 

The original poster was me. Like what Prolene said, use a 19mm and turn it clockwise until TDC. Then adjust the #1 cyclinder. After that, turn the crank 180 degrees clockwise, then adjust #3 . . . .etc. Just one tip, don't be conservative when it comes to the drag you feel. I was conservative and everything was too loose.

 

I will share a mistake I made so no one will make this (though doubtful that anyone would do so anyway.... .

I was leaving the wrench on the crankshaft nut between each turn. I forgot to take the wrench off after adjusting all the valves and when I tried starting the engine I heard a loud Bang! I released pressure on the start button immediately, and the engine did not fire, phew.

I found out that the wrench had turned and hit a fan housing, took the wrench out and promised myself not to do that again!

 

They always give a range of adjustment. I use the thickest gage as a "no-go", and the next gage feeler down as a "go". Seems to work really well.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Prolene
[B] I will share a mistake I made so no one will make this (though doubtful that anyone would do so anyway.... .

I was leaving the wrench on the crankshaft nut between each turn.

 

You don't have to retorque that bolt after turning the crank. With the spark plugs removed, you can turn the crank pretty easily with a regular closed ended wrench. That bolt is torqued to 180 ft/lbs! It aint goin' no where!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Destiny2002
[B]

They always give a range of adjustment.