from memmory, you will get a CEL if you hook it to the stock ecu. The signal is too quick for the ecu or something like that.

 

[QUOTE=honda9krpm,Oct 28 2004, 06:16 PM] from memmory, you will get a CEL if you hook it to the stock ecu.

 

I am not sure if anyone has found the solution but as far as I know there is no way around it. Look at the aem forum. I am not sure who from here but possibly cthree had this problem....don't quote me on this though.

 

I have copy and pasted a discussion from the AEM Forum -





Ok, I've got an EMS but I am switching back the the stock ECU until I have time to get it properly tuned. I also have an AEM UEGO 30-2301 that I had the 0-5V wired to C16 on the harness to the EMS.

Now that I've gone back to the stock ECU, I of course throw a CEL on with the 0-5V, so I hooked up the 0-1V to C16 and still throw a CEL. So I grounded the UEGO brown, no change.

I get really, really mad at this point and figure, screw it I'll put the stock O2 back in. So, I come inside and pick up the UEGO box for the hell of it and there it is, right on the front of the box 0-1V output to keep stock ECUs from throwing trouble codes. WTF! I'm retarded.

I've read the instruction pamphlet that came with it UEGO, it does mention that the 0-1V can be fed into the stock ECU to keep from throwing a CEL.

What the heck am I doing wrong?

Thanks in advance for your help.

__
Marcus

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Helps if I pull the DTC code before posting...

P0135 O2 sensor heater circuit. So, do I need to create a loop for this to go away?






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I believe the 0-1v wideband signal is not campatible with the stock O2 0-1v signal. The calibration is different. Another words, it wont work with the stock ECU. :thumbsdown:

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Muckman wrote:
I believe the 0-1v wideband signal is not campatible with the stock O2 0-1v signal. The calibration is different. Another words, it wont work with the stock ECU. :thumbsdown:


The whole purpose of the 0-1v output is to be compatible with narrowband gauges and ECUs.

I'm not sure precisely how to fix the problem... seems that the ECU really wants to heat an O2 sensor, but obviously the AEM UEGO is taking care of that. Figures that I lent out my electrical manual... can't think offhand if it's solvable with just a resistor.





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Actually I believe the 0-1volt output is best used on aftermarket EMS that cannot support the full 0-5volt range that the normal output offers. Say an older DFI. AEM has said more than once that the 0-1volt output may not work very well with an OEM EMS. It might, it might not, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.
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I'm just going to weld the bung that came with it to the bottom of the header and place the O2 sensor there. I'm going to get the EMS soon so The stock ECU is going to get the boot!

 

Where are you planning on mounting your EMS? Someone recommended that I get the extension cable (S2KJohn?) and not mount the EMS in the stock ECU location. It worked very well and allowed me to keep the stock ECU ... making it very easy to switch back to the stock ECU for state and emissions inspection. horsepowerfreeks is where I bought the harness. My EMS would not fit under my race seat, but it mounted very well vertically behind the seat. I don't see how anyone gets the AEM EMS mounted in the stock ECU location.

 

I know this is a hella old thread, I am late to the party. Has anyone figured out the 0-1v wideband connection to the stock ECU? If not do I just weld in another bung for the AFR and not attach it to the ECU?. I am going to be street tuning the SOS stage 1 supercharger.

 

Did anyone figure this out?

 

if you have an ap2 you can disable the cat monitor with hondata, install a straight pipe in place of the converter and run the af from the bung that would normally be for the rear 02.

that does however require hondata and a straight pipe