Airbox Modification Discussion
My take on the concept is that until I see thermocouple data I am not convinced. I don't know the temperature differentials to say what the car should or should not gain. I know the theory - I have a Master's Degree in Thermal Sciences and I develop engines for my salary.
What I DO KNOW: Your induction system can be tuned to form a standing wave that coincides with Intake Valve Opening. The theory is Helmholtz Resonance. Long induction system with large cross sectional diam and lower rpm performance boost. Shorter induction system with similar cross sectional diam and high rpm performance boost. Of course, the geometry must be optimized.
Now combine this with whatever temp gains [ie., reductions] it offers and one will see more bhp from your engine. My concern is what temperature drop do we actually see.
My $0.03
What I DO KNOW: Your induction system can be tuned to form a standing wave that coincides with Intake Valve Opening. The theory is Helmholtz Resonance. Long induction system with large cross sectional diam and lower rpm performance boost. Shorter induction system with similar cross sectional diam and high rpm performance boost. Of course, the geometry must be optimized.
Now combine this with whatever temp gains [ie., reductions] it offers and one will see more bhp from your engine. My concern is what temperature drop do we actually see.
My $0.03
Look at underside of the lid of the airbox and you will see that intake air flows through the duct formed in the lid. It does NOT flow through the bottom half of the filter box outside the baffle.
While you have the lid off, pour some water into the airbox bottom on the non-filter side of the baffle. It drains out the drain hole in the bottom.
With the lid back on the air filter box, feel inside the intake horn. The intake horn fits into the duct in the lid except for a gap in the bottom. The only reason I can think of for the gap is to try to dump rainwater sucked into the air horn before turns the corner to the filter. The baffle keeps the water from the filter until it drains.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by pfb
[B]Great discussion.
Any thoughts on the original intention of the internal baffle with the stock air box?
While you have the lid off, pour some water into the airbox bottom on the non-filter side of the baffle. It drains out the drain hole in the bottom.
With the lid back on the air filter box, feel inside the intake horn. The intake horn fits into the duct in the lid except for a gap in the bottom. The only reason I can think of for the gap is to try to dump rainwater sucked into the air horn before turns the corner to the filter. The baffle keeps the water from the filter until it drains.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by pfb
[B]Great discussion.
Any thoughts on the original intention of the internal baffle with the stock air box?
if you take a look at the cover of the airbox when you take it off, it seem like the air is funnelled straight into the main chamber - so I do not think that the first chamber is for water collection. I could be wrong.
I'll see if I can dig up the reference to the airbox being designed for sound reasons.
I'll see if I can dig up the reference to the airbox being designed for sound reasons.
I would imagine there is enough volume in the airbox that adding an extension to the stock airbox probably wont mess any resonance up too much as long as there is low restriction to the airbox opening so that the airbox can maintain a sufficient amount of air at the ready.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by s2ktaxi
[B]if you take a look at the cover of the airbox when you take it off, it seem like the air is funnelled straight into the main chamber - so I do not think that the first chamber is for water collection.
[B]if you take a look at the cover of the airbox when you take it off, it seem like the air is funnelled straight into the main chamber - so I do not think that the first chamber is for water collection.





