Alternator dying?
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Alternator dying?
So, for the past few days I've noticed my voltage dropping to 12.3-12.6 at idle and fluctuating between that and 14.3v. I know this is a problem, I just can't decide if I want to replace the battery first. It seems to do it more when it's hot outside (70+) than cold, as it doesn't do it when I drive home from my office at night (yet). I don't think my scangauge is throwing bad numbers at me, what do you guys think?? No battery light or strange behavior to speak of...
#2
You could have the battery tested. The first question I'd ask is how old the battery is. Alternator charging efficiency drops off a cliff at idle usually. (Note that I'm speaking in general terms as a Mercedes technician) When your voltage is wigging out, get the rpms up to about 1500-2000. If it doesn't immediately stabilize, the alternator is the likely culprit. You can also vary the load on the electrical system by turning on lights, defroster, blower on high. A good alternator should be in the neighborhood of 13.4v to 13.8v. Yes, up to about 14.3 is acceptable. I worry much higher than 14.5. A fully charged lead acid battery should be 12.8v. If you're below that while idling, you have a VERY weak battery pulling the alternator down, or a weak alternator. But, like I said in the beginning, start with having the battery tested. Hope this helps.
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You could have the battery tested. The first question I'd ask is how old the battery is. Alternator charging efficiency drops off a cliff at idle usually. (Note that I'm speaking in general terms as a Mercedes technician) When your voltage is wigging out, get the rpms up to about 1500-2000. If it doesn't immediately stabilize, the alternator is the likely culprit. You can also vary the load on the electrical system by turning on lights, defroster, blower on high. A good alternator should be in the neighborhood of 13.4v to 13.8v. Yes, up to about 14.3 is acceptable. I worry much higher than 14.5. A fully charged lead acid battery should be 12.8v. If you're below that while idling, you have a VERY weak battery pulling the alternator down, or a weak alternator. But, like I said in the beginning, start with having the battery tested. Hope this helps.
#4
The fluctuations are definitely a concern. One other thing to check that just came to mind. Battery cables, tight and free of corrosion. Both at the battery and where they attach to the body/fuse box. Connection at the alternator. Is the nut tight? Is the ground strap for the engine in good shape? Tight connections, not corroded too heavily. Dang it, I always forget the bigger picture. Hope this helps some more.
#5
Check the hoses on the intake manifold over the alternator, make sure they're not leaking.
#6
I've got a scangauge and I am pretty sure I get the same numbers. The voltage output does change with rpms and load.
The reason I know this is because I have LED's in my instrument cluster and they dim down a bit at idle when I get just over 12 volts, and then they brighten up around 4000 rpms and higher as voltage climbs up to around 13.5 -14 volts. If I turn on the headlights the voltage increases and remains pretty flat at the higher output. I think above 2000 rpms the voltage output increases to around 13.5 volts or so ?. It's been a while since I checked my scangauge readings but I am sure that they are the same as yours.
The reason I know this is because I have LED's in my instrument cluster and they dim down a bit at idle when I get just over 12 volts, and then they brighten up around 4000 rpms and higher as voltage climbs up to around 13.5 -14 volts. If I turn on the headlights the voltage increases and remains pretty flat at the higher output. I think above 2000 rpms the voltage output increases to around 13.5 volts or so ?. It's been a while since I checked my scangauge readings but I am sure that they are the same as yours.
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