S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Alternator dying?

Thread Tools
 
Old 04-25-2014, 07:59 PM
  #1  
Registered User

Thread Starter
 
AP1Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Alternator dying?

So, for the past few days I've noticed my voltage dropping to 12.3-12.6 at idle and fluctuating between that and 14.3v. I know this is a problem, I just can't decide if I want to replace the battery first. It seems to do it more when it's hot outside (70+) than cold, as it doesn't do it when I drive home from my office at night (yet). I don't think my scangauge is throwing bad numbers at me, what do you guys think?? No battery light or strange behavior to speak of...
Old 04-25-2014, 08:12 PM
  #2  
Registered User

 
Polaris0352's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 138
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You could have the battery tested. The first question I'd ask is how old the battery is. Alternator charging efficiency drops off a cliff at idle usually. (Note that I'm speaking in general terms as a Mercedes technician) When your voltage is wigging out, get the rpms up to about 1500-2000. If it doesn't immediately stabilize, the alternator is the likely culprit. You can also vary the load on the electrical system by turning on lights, defroster, blower on high. A good alternator should be in the neighborhood of 13.4v to 13.8v. Yes, up to about 14.3 is acceptable. I worry much higher than 14.5. A fully charged lead acid battery should be 12.8v. If you're below that while idling, you have a VERY weak battery pulling the alternator down, or a weak alternator. But, like I said in the beginning, start with having the battery tested. Hope this helps.
Old 04-25-2014, 08:22 PM
  #3  
Registered User

Thread Starter
 
AP1Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Polaris0352
You could have the battery tested. The first question I'd ask is how old the battery is. Alternator charging efficiency drops off a cliff at idle usually. (Note that I'm speaking in general terms as a Mercedes technician) When your voltage is wigging out, get the rpms up to about 1500-2000. If it doesn't immediately stabilize, the alternator is the likely culprit. You can also vary the load on the electrical system by turning on lights, defroster, blower on high. A good alternator should be in the neighborhood of 13.4v to 13.8v. Yes, up to about 14.3 is acceptable. I worry much higher than 14.5. A fully charged lead acid battery should be 12.8v. If you're below that while idling, you have a VERY weak battery pulling the alternator down, or a weak alternator. But, like I said in the beginning, start with having the battery tested. Hope this helps.
The battery is less than a year old. If cruising or running 3k rpm+ it seems to stay above 13.9. The strange part is the fluctuation, not being consistent. I'm gonna take the battery back since it's still under warranty and exchange it. I would be a bit shocked if the alternator is dying at only 68k miles, as my 02' had 148k on it when I sold it and still had the original alternator. I hope it's the battery.
Old 04-26-2014, 09:11 AM
  #4  
Registered User

 
Polaris0352's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 138
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The fluctuations are definitely a concern. One other thing to check that just came to mind. Battery cables, tight and free of corrosion. Both at the battery and where they attach to the body/fuse box. Connection at the alternator. Is the nut tight? Is the ground strap for the engine in good shape? Tight connections, not corroded too heavily. Dang it, I always forget the bigger picture. Hope this helps some more.
Old 04-27-2014, 03:14 PM
  #5  

 
Slowcrash_101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,263
Received 419 Likes on 349 Posts
Default

Check the hoses on the intake manifold over the alternator, make sure they're not leaking.
Old 04-27-2014, 05:54 PM
  #6  

 
zeroptzero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 25,405
Received 3,427 Likes on 2,474 Posts
Default

I've got a scangauge and I am pretty sure I get the same numbers. The voltage output does change with rpms and load.

The reason I know this is because I have LED's in my instrument cluster and they dim down a bit at idle when I get just over 12 volts, and then they brighten up around 4000 rpms and higher as voltage climbs up to around 13.5 -14 volts. If I turn on the headlights the voltage increases and remains pretty flat at the higher output. I think above 2000 rpms the voltage output increases to around 13.5 volts or so ?. It's been a while since I checked my scangauge readings but I am sure that they are the same as yours.
Old 04-28-2014, 06:16 AM
  #7  
Banned
 
wadzii's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

crank it up, unhook the battery then drive and see if it still fluctuates. If it doesnt then battery is your problem, if it does then alternator is your problem.
Old 04-28-2014, 06:54 AM
  #8  

 
JUSTINTHECOASTIE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St.Petersburg/Tampa, FL
Posts: 4,806
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wadzii
crank it up, unhook the battery then drive and see if it still fluctuates. If it doesnt then battery is your problem, if it does then alternator is your problem.
x2
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hornyhonda
UK & Ireland S2000 Community
14
09-03-2006 11:59 AM
Bigeggroll
S2000 Under The Hood
4
10-07-2005 12:54 PM
jimpom23
UK & Ireland S2000 Community
10
10-03-2005 04:06 AM
CostaK
Australia & New Zealand S2000 Owners
5
05-08-2004 05:45 PM
seung
S2000 Talk
29
10-02-2002 06:21 PM



Quick Reply: Alternator dying?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:14 AM.