Alternator Rectifier Replacement
I used an oversized screwdriver to pry mine out. With the airbox out it takes ten seconds to remove. Getting the electrical connection removed is a little trickier but still isn't difficult. Getting the alternator back in is MUCH harder.
While you have the alternator out and the cover off, you might want to replace the brushes (.a.k.a. Brush Holder). You should at least take it out and see how worn the graphite brushes are. New, they each are around 1/2" long. The brush holder assembly is really easy to remove and reinstall.
You can pick up a replacement on EBay for around ten bucks delivered. Just search for part number 31105-PR7-A01.
BTW - one common reason for rectifier failures is jump starting another car. If you absolutely have to get or give a jump, don't rev the engine on either car during the jump.
While you have the alternator out and the cover off, you might want to replace the brushes (.a.k.a. Brush Holder). You should at least take it out and see how worn the graphite brushes are. New, they each are around 1/2" long. The brush holder assembly is really easy to remove and reinstall.
You can pick up a replacement on EBay for around ten bucks delivered. Just search for part number 31105-PR7-A01.
BTW - one common reason for rectifier failures is jump starting another car. If you absolutely have to get or give a jump, don't rev the engine on either car during the jump.
Thanks guys, I got the rectifier out of the new alternator, no problem there. I may also replace the brush holder too, since it has to come out anyway to change out the rectifier. Crazy that the entire rebuilt alternator I got off Ebay was cheaper than just a new rectifier from Honda.
I'll let you know if I run into any trouble Andy. Based on what you guys are saying, though, it doesn't sound too bad.
I'll let you know if I run into any trouble Andy. Based on what you guys are saying, though, it doesn't sound too bad.
Well, that was easy, other than getting the alternator back in. Actually, once I found out I could push out the busing on the bottom mount to get more clearance to get the alternator back in, installation was easy too. Had a piece of threaded pipe with a tee at the end (3/4" or 1") that I normally use for a breaker bar. The tee fits in well where the bottom bolt for the alternator goes and I could use it to pry the bushing out to get clearance for the alternator. Everything seems to be fine now with the new rectifier.
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