Tonygeez

I have searched for forum multiple times, but I am not able to find an answer to this... I also consider myself fairly good with cars as well (went to school for automotive), and I'm stumped. I have a 2001 s2000 with 170k miles. The car runs excellent, great condition, good compression etc etc.. I recently replaced the battery when I purchased the car 2 months ago (it was old and had a slow start). The battery has the OEM CCA of 500 amps. However, when the car sits for a while (10+ hours) and this ambient air temperature is fairly low 38F or lower, the car will not start.
Fuel pump turns on, Im getting spark, idle air is accurate, all accessories are turned off; I have even checked to ensure the clutch is fully disengaged when starting to ensure there is no extra load on the starter. The car starts flawlessly any other time whether the engine is hot or cold.. Just not when the ambient air is temp is approximately 38F or below and it has been sitting. The charging system has been checked (not thoroughly, but with and "auto parts store" quick check) and everything checks out.
The reason I feel it is a problem with cold cranking amps is because when am getting jump started by another car, the s2k fires right up.
So I'm asking your opinion, has anybody else experienced this? Am I right for thinking the battery does not have enough CCA? is there a more powerful, or recommended battery? unlikely, but should I replace the alternator? is shows no symptoms of wear or age. Let me know.

* To clarify, the car cranks, but does not fire in the prior stated conditions.*

Thanks in advance!
Tony

Chuck S

Was the battery tested or just the charging system. I recall the OE battery had 450 CCA so 500 is more than enough. If the battery is good. If the motor spins it "should start." Not much help, of course. My two year old Duralast Gold battery lists 500 as the CCA as does yours. My car starts without effort -- not that that helps you either All I got with the battery before this one was a sudden clattering of the starter solenoid. Failed on a Friday evening in August.

There's a section in the owner's manual on how to load test the battery but the auto parts store has a simple load test meter.

-- Chuck

Tonygeez

I appreciate the response. I had them check both, the battery and the charging system. Both checked out. Thats why I'm really puzzled. It is does crank strong for the first few start attempts, until the voltage drops due to excessive cranking. I have a 12v battery tester in the car, and its reads 12.6v before I start cranking...

Perhaps the high compression and low temperatures dont agree? but why is it only my car not starting when its mildly chilly outside? lol

Chuck S

What does the voltage read when cranking? Anything below 9.5vDC under the load of the starter indicates a bad battery (assuming you've confirmed all the connections are clean). Somewhere in the range of 9.5-10.5vDC is typical under that load.

-- Chuck

Tonygeez

I'll have to check that this weekend. Takes an extra pair of hands to crank the car too lol. Good point though.. I just find the starting problem unlikely to be caused by the "new" battery i purchased. It is also difficult to accurately troubleshoot as the no start only happens in cold environments. (ironically, only when the car was parked outside)

Tonygeez

Update: turns out another "cheap" battery was the cause of the problem. It tested fine but was inconsistent. I replaced it, and all is well. Anybody needing to replace a battery in the future needs to ensure they buy Honda or a valuable aftermarket item with proper size terminals. I have purchased 2 batteries in the last two years (two different cars) that were from advance auto or auto zone, and they simply do not last. The electron plates corrode and fail way too soon and can leave you stranded. Never skimp on maintenance parts ya'll.